When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
so we had a good 10 mile ride earlier today, trying to calibrate the speedo.. (no such luck).. and we have a steering wander problem.. about 1/8 steering wheel turn play.
this is a rebuilt steering box. and new Pitman arm..
I did not replace the idler arm, or tie rod ends. (as they looked ok, and had no looseness when tested manually 9 yrs ago). The donor was an 85 5th Avenue. Ball joints and other front suspension parts replaced.
there appears to the be a steering box adjustment .. does anyone have any experience here.
Ididit steering column, new borgeson steering joints.
oh, and 255/45/18 tires.. tiny bit wider than original.
before you start playing with the steering box,you should probable try to pin point the problem.get someone to slowly turn the steering wheel back and forth just in the free ply zone.use your hand to try to feel any clucks or movement.this is how ive done in the past,sometimes you can see where its loose but you can feel it.
hope this helps
Sam, it sounds like excessive gear lash in the box. Try loosening the locknut on the adjusting bolt/screw and tightening the bolt one round and retighten locknut. Go try it and see if it's better. If it is, try maybe go another half round till you get it where you like it. Take care not to overtighten. If this does not fix the problem, look elsewhere.
Sam, it sounds like excessive gear lash in the box. Try loosening the locknut on the adjusting bolt/screw and tightening the bolt one round and retighten locknut. Go try it and see if it's better. If it is, try maybe go another half round till you get it where you like it. Take care not to overtighten. If this does not fix the problem, look elsewhere.
thanks.. about 1 1/4 turns cleaned up just about all of it so far.. may need a tiny bit more, but I need to drive it some first
Sam, if the rebuilder didn't include paperwork showing the need to adjust the lash, I wonder if they forgot to grease the box. I would give the box a good visual inspection, just to be safe. chuck
Sam, if the rebuilder didn't include paperwork showing the need to adjust the lash, I wonder if they forgot to grease the box. I would give the box a good visual inspection, just to be safe. chuck
this is an Autozone rebuilt.. the box looked clean and fresh when I put it on the chassis, gosh just over 2 yrs ago.. there 'may' have been doc in the box, but that is long since gone.
Sam, if the rebuilder didn't include paperwork showing the need to adjust the lash, I wonder if they forgot to grease the box. I would give the box a good visual inspection, just to be safe. chuck
also, this is a power steering box, I don't know how/if the fluid flows inside as a lubricant.
haven't had a chance to drive her. out of town on business thru friday. may get into a 2 day show over the weekend (Texas Heatwave).. so won't get a good shot til next week.. also looks like I messed up the shift linkage (column arm position clocked wrong), which will force me to redo the connecting rod. Can't get it down into first.
still waiting for a good part from the speedo gauge company so I can calibrate the gauges and be done with that..
Ok, now that the heat problem is solved, I'm back to this again...
info
Volare front end, 85 Chrysler 5th Ave.
replaced ball joints, bushings (poly), tie rod ends, idler arm, steering box, pitman arm.
latest alignment has a slightly too positive caster but that should be better
Ididit steering column, with 2 borgeson U joints. , all new.
new shocks.
very wide front tires.. 255/45/18
left right
Camber -0.8 -1.1 - wheel lean in out (top in is -. good, spec 0 to +1)
Caster +5.3 +5.1 - wheel center line top to bottom (top back is +, good,spec +1.5 to 3.5)
toe +.13 +.11 - wheel angle front to back in/out, front in is +, good, spec +.08 to .18)
altho the wheel lean in (camber) is more negative than expected, I don't think
this should have an overall effect.
but.. net, I have this wander/play problem which makes driving uncomfortable.
this is the second replacement steering box, and is MUCH better than the first.
I wasn't part of this thread prior. I would start wth the install. Tape measure wheel base both sides. Is the install centered on the frame? Are the a arms setting as they would in the original car? Is the frame straight? Sounds like you have check for loose parts. Who is the FTE expert on this type install. Seems many have used this front end option. chuck
I wasn't part of this thread prior. I would start wth the install. Tape measure wheel base both sides. Is the install centered on the frame? Are the a arms setting as they would in the original car? Is the frame straight? Sounds like you have check for loose parts. Who is the FTE expert on this type install. Seems many have used this front end option. chuck
wheel bases are within 1/4 inch.
frame is straight
lower arms are parallel to the ground per the source vehicle.
my have used this front end, and I don't see reports of loose/wander.. thus my asking
My suggestion would be to check the caster angle first then go to the steering box, if this is the box that I think it is. it's very critical to have the box exactly centered before adjusting the lash. LOL
My suggestion would be to check the caster angle first then go to the steering box, if this is the box that I think it is. it's very critical to have the box exactly centered before adjusting the lash. LOL
Ok, caster is +5.3 degrees.. spec on the volare calls for 3.5 max.. don't think that will hurt..
I really don't want to adjust the lash on this volare steering box again.. got real tight last time.. but I will if the gallery says thats the next best thing to try..
I think the best advice is above; have someone turn the wheel and see where the motion disappears.
I would really, really avoid playing with the screw on the side of the box; it sets end thrust only, it is not meant to take up slop in the gears. Too much and you'll ruin the thrust bearings.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.