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I've been trying to diagnose the 332 code on my 95 F150 4x4, 4.9/6cyl. Following past posts I've been taking it step-by-step. Replaced the coffee can with a plastic one from a later model (the coffee can uses two bolts and the plastic one uses three. there were pre-drilled holes on the inner fender that matched for the plastic one-bolts right in).
Pulled the hard plastic vacuum lines and found they were melted...melted through in two places. Everyone talks about replacing the hard plastic lines with rubber ones. I bought the truck with 122k miles and only put on about 500 additional miles. How do I prevent the melting? Seems the rubber lines would melt easier than the hard plastic. I welcome any input before I buy new lines and replace. Thanks.
your lines melted?! one of mine had a crack but i bought some pretty heavy duty plastic tubing and used it to mend the crack. funny you used a plastic can too. i just ran to the store and bought a can of tomato juice lol. If you still get the code after the vac lines are replaced keep in mind your egr valve could be clogged
Still trying to fix the 332 code. So far I've replaced the metal can with a plastic one, replaced vac lines that melted, replaced the EGR, the position sensor and the regulator. I decided to replace these parts as I go because the truck has high mileage and I don't want to go back in again later. My vac off of the manifold reads good. I am looking for other things to check. I have one question though. If I measure the vac pressure from the line that goes from the canister to the EVR, what should it read? Thanks for any additional help; it's starting to drive me a bit crazy.
A couple other questions. On the vac diagram on the hood there are a couple of devices that I'm not sure what they are. I looked in my repair manual but can't find what they are. They are listed as VRESER, FPRC and EFCA. Thanks again.
Is the code an egr insuffecent or egr fault? Have you applied vacuum to the EGR valve to see if it stumbles or kills the engine? the vacuum line from the manifold to the EGR solenoid should climb to amost ten inches when you rev the engine.
EGR valve opening not detected. The vacuum line goes from the manifold to the reservoir. The other line from the reservoir goes to the solenoid. If I pull the vac line from off the solenoid (the line from the reservoir) and put a gauge on it, I get no measurable vac, at idle or rev. This is leading me to believe that it is the canister. I replaced the metal with a plastic one, but I want to be sure that I should be getting a vac reading from the canister and idle and with a rev. I'm a novice learning my way. Thanks.
how about the line to the reservoir from the manifold? do you get a reading then. I have seen plenty of lines cloggled from carbon build up. very common on toyota 22RE
I'm not sure if I can help directly. I have a 302. The vacuum from intake red line goes to plastic vacuum reservoir. One port is labeled VAC (embossed in plastic). One of ports has a check valve inside (Forget which). You might be reversed here; this will cause a 332 error. Black line from res goes to bottom of solenoid. Top port of solenoid green line goes to EGR. So you might have your vac lines reversed in one or both places. Hopes this helps you decipher of your 6 cyl.
Thanks for the responses. I had originally replaced the metal reservoir with a plastic one I got from a junk yard. I bypassed the reservoir this morning and took the vac line from the manifold directly to the solenoid...problem solved, no check engine light and no more code 332. I wasn't getting any vac from the reservoir. Looks like the plastic reservoir was bad, although when I pulled it off the donor truck it looked near perfect. Thanks for the help.
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