Ignition switch removal
Will, First and foremose, Welcome to the Family of Ford Truck Enthusiast.
Key assembly needs to be in same position, accessory, as when it was removed. At the end of the key assembly there's a concentric cam that sets into a corrisponding slot inside the ignition switch. Insert the key, which will be in the off position, there's a small ball on the face of the key assembly, use a paperclip, or something simular, depress the ball while rotating the key counterclockwise, this places the assembly in the 'accessory' position and the cam on the key assembly should now be aligned with the slot in the ignition switch, insert the assembly with the key then turn clockwise. Fortunately I don't have to make sense of this pathetic explaination, but if you take a close look at the switch and key assembly hopefully it will make sense.
Key assembly needs to be in same position, accessory, as when it was removed. At the end of the key assembly there's a concentric cam that sets into a corrisponding slot inside the ignition switch. Insert the key, which will be in the off position, there's a small ball on the face of the key assembly, use a paperclip, or something simular, depress the ball while rotating the key counterclockwise, this places the assembly in the 'accessory' position and the cam on the key assembly should now be aligned with the slot in the ignition switch, insert the assembly with the key then turn clockwise. Fortunately I don't have to make sense of this pathetic explaination, but if you take a close look at the switch and key assembly hopefully it will make sense.
Man, where I am having a locksmith come out is handy. 30 bucks. Seems pricey but not having to drill out a tumbler is worth the 30.
I'm amazed at how quick they can pick the tumbler and have it turned. Good luck getting yours up and running!
I'm amazed at how quick they can pick the tumbler and have it turned. Good luck getting yours up and running!
Don't know why you guys are having issues. To remove a cylinder, you put the key in, turn it to acc. poke a paperclip in the hole, press it, turn the key horizontal and pull it out.
You reverse that move with the exception of the paperclip to re-install the new cylinder. Start with the key teeth pointing towards the door horizontal, poke it in and turn it clockwise. Once it is vertical you can stop, pull the key, or continue turning over to the start position.
If that doesn't get you going, you will have to check a higher paygrade.
John
You reverse that move with the exception of the paperclip to re-install the new cylinder. Start with the key teeth pointing towards the door horizontal, poke it in and turn it clockwise. Once it is vertical you can stop, pull the key, or continue turning over to the start position.
If that doesn't get you going, you will have to check a higher paygrade.

John
$30 is a steal... I called two local locksmiths today. One quoted me $80 and the other $120.
the lock cylinder goes in only 1 way...its a bit of a bear but its easily done....I had to do mine a few years back...
the door locks are keyed the same as the ignition originally on these trucks....
And theres the key code stamped on it easily read...
- cs65
the door locks are keyed the same as the ignition originally on these trucks....
And theres the key code stamped on it easily read...
- cs65
I believe you would be better off to have a locksmith come out and make you a new key.
You can destroy the cylinder by drilling it out, replace it with a new one.
You can have the lock picked, turned to the left with a paper clip in the hole to horizontal and pull the cylinder out.
You can have a locksmith come out and make you a new key.
Those are your basic choices as I see them.
John
You can destroy the cylinder by drilling it out, replace it with a new one.
You can have the lock picked, turned to the left with a paper clip in the hole to horizontal and pull the cylinder out.
You can have a locksmith come out and make you a new key.
Those are your basic choices as I see them.
John

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