leaking C6 tranny
#1
leaking C6 tranny
I've got a small (drip on the floor) leak that appears to be coming out of the shift linkage lever on the driver side of my C6 tranny. It kinda puddles around on the tranny pan etc, but I can see what makes me think its coming out of the lever assembly. I'm not sure what to call it. Its the lever that the shifter cable moves when one changes gears. Otherwise the tranny--not too long since rebuild-works fine, and I don't think it was dripping last week. I think it just started. It may have been leaking all along, but is now getting worse. I don't know for sure. Can someone tell me--can I drop the tranny pan and fix that somehow? Is there some sort of damaged bushing like thing? Will it get worse or stay the same? Do I have to remove the tranny to fix? I'm lost on this one. Any help appreciated.
Tomget
Tomget
#2
You can replace the seal by dropping the pan and removing the shaft.
The kick down lever comes through from the inside and must come out also. Remove the nut on the outside and it slides out to the inside when the shaft comes out. Nut on the inside holds the shaft in. Remove one valve body bolt and the detent spring to make it easier. The park actuator is also involved but you can see how it all works when the pan is off.
Seal in the case and O-ring for the kick down.
Hope this helps.
It isn't all that complicated if you are somewhat mechanically inclined.
The kick down lever comes through from the inside and must come out also. Remove the nut on the outside and it slides out to the inside when the shaft comes out. Nut on the inside holds the shaft in. Remove one valve body bolt and the detent spring to make it easier. The park actuator is also involved but you can see how it all works when the pan is off.
Seal in the case and O-ring for the kick down.
Hope this helps.
It isn't all that complicated if you are somewhat mechanically inclined.
#4
leaky c6
Thanks for your responses. That's a big load off my mind. I can't afford any "expensive" repairs at the moment. This definitely sounds like a can do for me. I have, on someone else's car, changed tranny filters etc, but only a couple times etc. And on this truck before I got it running-I swapped out the OEM tranny pan for a cast aluminum unit with more cooling and fluid capacity etc. And I installed this tranny and the torque converter too. So I know what they look like inside---a little. I just don't know what I'm looking at. You know what I mean? This is the first automatic that I've ever owned!! Call me sheltered. But I'm sure I understand your directions in general and I should be fine. I'll sleep better tonight.
Tomget
Tomget
#5
leaky C6 tranny
I know nothing about these C6trannies but I'm sure they vary. I should get a photo. Its not the linkage for shift cable etc--I already removed that no problem. So now I'm just trying to remove the shaft and replace seal o ring and or whatever.
Any help appreciated.
Good luck Tom
#6
#7
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#8
You don't have enough parts there.
Their should be a shaft sticling out through the center of that with an arm held onto it by a nut. Evidently this has been left out and the hole plugged with something. You have no provision for a kick down. Also the arm has been cut odd that the shift linkage hooks to.
You need to find the whole works to replace what you have.
If you take the nut off from the inside that should slip out and you can see the seal in the case.
If the pic works it is from the Ford shop manual.
It shows the linkage from the inside with the valve body removed. You can see the end of both levers on the outside.
Sorry not the best illus. but all I could come up with right quick. Maybe it will help a little.
Their should be a shaft sticling out through the center of that with an arm held onto it by a nut. Evidently this has been left out and the hole plugged with something. You have no provision for a kick down. Also the arm has been cut odd that the shift linkage hooks to.
You need to find the whole works to replace what you have.
If you take the nut off from the inside that should slip out and you can see the seal in the case.
If the pic works it is from the Ford shop manual.
It shows the linkage from the inside with the valve body removed. You can see the end of both levers on the outside.
Sorry not the best illus. but all I could come up with right quick. Maybe it will help a little.
#9
Thanks for the input. That really helps, but in spite of missing the kick down linkage etc that's not a problem for me. It all works fine the way it
is if I could just get the leak stopped. That's the only issue that concerns me.
I'm not sure I've got enough room to wrench on that 7/8 bolt inside the transmission. I'd need a short 7/8 wrench to clear a nearby crossmember etc, but I can get on it. I just don't think I can move it. But I'll mess with it.
Appreciate yur help thanks a lot
Tomget
is if I could just get the leak stopped. That's the only issue that concerns me.
I'm not sure I've got enough room to wrench on that 7/8 bolt inside the transmission. I'd need a short 7/8 wrench to clear a nearby crossmember etc, but I can get on it. I just don't think I can move it. But I'll mess with it.
Appreciate yur help thanks a lot
Tomget
#10
modified shift linkage
As a followup-I got some info and I see now what has happened. The OEM Ford kickdown lever "would be" a shaft coming through the center of the photograhed shaft appearing in the previous photo post. If you look closely you can see that someone cut off the shaft and its nut and filled the remaining void with something like JB weld etc. And also I've discovered that the pictured "cut off looking piece of metal" is the OEM shift linkage that would connect to the OEM column shift lever assembly etc..
This was done by a previous owner of the transmission who was 1. not using the kickdown feature because he'd modified/swapped motors trucks etc and didn't want or didn't know how to configure the OEM kickdown linkage to what he had now created and 2. the cut off OEM shift linkage is common when people add a aftermarket floor shifter type device that comes with its own linkage that is attached to the transmissions shifter shaft and the OEM is no longer used and in fact might now be in the way etc so it often gets removed.
So I hope I've explained what I have and why its this way. I didn't understand this when I began.
So now 1. the JB Weld or whatever could be leaking--but i doubt it and I think I'll grind that out and see if a portion of the OEM kickdown shaft still exists inside that now filled area and if applicable I'll replace the o ring or o rings that are required and then refill the void with JB or something, and then 2. I'll attempt to replace the shifter shaft seal from the inside of the case by removing the 7/8 nut from inside the case and sliding shaft in and exposing seal. But I may wait to get a Tranny book etc to guide me a little. To me, it looks like I might screw it up, and I don't want that.
Good luck Tomget
This was done by a previous owner of the transmission who was 1. not using the kickdown feature because he'd modified/swapped motors trucks etc and didn't want or didn't know how to configure the OEM kickdown linkage to what he had now created and 2. the cut off OEM shift linkage is common when people add a aftermarket floor shifter type device that comes with its own linkage that is attached to the transmissions shifter shaft and the OEM is no longer used and in fact might now be in the way etc so it often gets removed.
So I hope I've explained what I have and why its this way. I didn't understand this when I began.
So now 1. the JB Weld or whatever could be leaking--but i doubt it and I think I'll grind that out and see if a portion of the OEM kickdown shaft still exists inside that now filled area and if applicable I'll replace the o ring or o rings that are required and then refill the void with JB or something, and then 2. I'll attempt to replace the shifter shaft seal from the inside of the case by removing the 7/8 nut from inside the case and sliding shaft in and exposing seal. But I may wait to get a Tranny book etc to guide me a little. To me, it looks like I might screw it up, and I don't want that.
Good luck Tomget
#11
#13
leaky C6
Thanks 52F3 and Thanks Havi for the diagram. That makes it much clearer. I may eventually learn something. Yes I saw the drawing in the earlier post that showed the mechanic driving the seal in place from the outside of the case with a hammer and some specific tool etc. That's kinda troubling. I was hoping the seal would go from the inside of the case.
I'll study the diagram and learn, hopefully.
Thanks
Tomget
I'll study the diagram and learn, hopefully.
Thanks
Tomget
#14
#15
shift shaft seal
OK I follow you. So you're saying if I can get that 7/8 nut off the inside then the outside of the case where I need to install the seal will be available.
And I guess the old seal will pop off etc and I'll use the socket to set the replacement. I understand that. And you don't think that the "goofy" treatment of how the kickdown was eliminated and covered over etc will cause me any problem?
I was concerned now that as I've learned more maybe that would goof up the whole deal etc. But not so?
If I take the old seal into NAPA, could they get me a replacement or would I need a part number or special place to buy etc? Got any ideas about that?
Thanks
Tomget
And I guess the old seal will pop off etc and I'll use the socket to set the replacement. I understand that. And you don't think that the "goofy" treatment of how the kickdown was eliminated and covered over etc will cause me any problem?
I was concerned now that as I've learned more maybe that would goof up the whole deal etc. But not so?
If I take the old seal into NAPA, could they get me a replacement or would I need a part number or special place to buy etc? Got any ideas about that?
Thanks
Tomget