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I have been noticing a rattle coming from both sides of the front end since the rain in NY has finally stopped and have been able to drive with the windows open. The only thing I have found so far is the front axle u joints have play d/s 3/8 - 1/2 inch and p/s 1/8 inch. At low speeds a slight jingle sound can also be heard from the same area. I have also noticed that at highway speeds if you pass over say a roadway expansion joint a slight slight vibration or hum will begin and continue until you pass over another joint or bump and then the it stops. This vibration feels like you are driving on a scratched road surface like before the road is repaved. Tires are new with only 7k miles, ball joints replaced, shocks new, stabilizer link bushings replaced with Energy Suspension. 99 F250 S/D 4x4 V10 Manual locking hubs 62K Original miles I am leaning towards replacing either the needle bearings or the entire hub assembly on both sides. The hubs go for $400 from the local a/p store. Does anyone have experience with bearing race or drive shaft damage after these needle bearings go bad?
I just replaced my hubs. I was able to find a friendly dealership that was willing to come down a little closer to fleet pricing for me (around $260 per hub) since I bought $1500 in front end parts. My shafts were not scored, but 181K on a non-serviceable bearing is a long run and I was glad to see that there wasn't any damage. I have heard of the needle bearing drying up and damaging the drive shafts. I don't even want to think about how much a shaft costs! The shafts are pretty stout and I would think they would put up with a bit before they get trashed.
I had some unpleasant sounds when off-roading when articulating and turning. I also had a lot of wander on the road. The final straw was when I would make a sharp turn, I'd hear/feel a popping sound, and then my steering wheel would be in a slightly different position when I straightened out. I had a little play in the left wheel when I jacked it up and decided that I only wanted to put it up on the lift and tear it down once. So I went and got new hubs, upper and lower ball joints, inner and out drag links, inner and outer tie rods, new adjustment tubes, and every freakin' seal that I could get for the ESOF (axle, hub to knuckle and hub). It took me 2 days (8 hours each day) to get it all done, but it drives like a new truck! I still have a little bit of play in the wheel (it's a big a$$ truck with a solid front axle), which I expected. I figure a Redhead steering box would probably solve it, but another $400 or so was not in the budget. I don't get it aligned for 2 more days, but the wander and popping is gone. I still have a little noise, but that's my sway bar end links (I'll replace those after I fix the oil leak that is coating one of the links).
I probably went overkill on the parts, but with 181K on the odometer it was faster and easier for me to throw new parts at it than try to re-grease or re-use any of the old ones. I plan on keeping the truck another 15-20 years so I figure it was a worthwhile investment. It wasn't the hardest stuff I've done, but it is definitely time consuming!
I made the seal driver from Home Depot parts and had it ground down. I set the seal on the axle and hit the tool with a BFH (small sledge), checked to make sure the seal was going on straight, hit the tool with a BFH, checked to make sure...you get the idea. Took a couple of minutes a side to get it on straight and I was done. It did take me forever to get the old seals off!
Is there a tool, or recommended tool for putting the outer axle tube seal on the axle shafts? I replaced them once, but they did not seem to actually seal with the axle housing??
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.