ok guys i have my 88 ranger just over 200 k on it.. well i took it out wheeling this weekend and i was alittle hard on it. but the truck runs fine just needs whell barings really bad now but i am doing them sat. heres the problem. i seem to have cracked my exhaust header.right below the spark plug. it seems to be cracked all the way around and the truck is really loud. how hard is it going to be to get the bolts off. and what happen if i break one in the block? thanks guys.. steve

 

I haven't had any reason to pull the exhaust manifolds off my 87 ranger yet, but my little Nissan had about 260,000 miles on it when I did an engine swap on it. I didn't have any problems getting that manifold off. However if you actually have aftermarket headers on it, it should be quite easy to pull off since the bolts have previously been broke loose.

As you probably already know, It's initially breaking the bolts loose that's the hardest part, as far as keeping from breaking the bolt. As long as you break it loose, you should be in good shape. If it starts getting hard to turn, thread it backwards a turn or two, and proceed further. Keep going back and forth untill completly removed to keep from stripping any threads.

Sorry if I sound like I think you're an idiot. That's not the case. Just thoroughly answering your question, cause since you asked you probably know that when they do break, it can turn into a real pain in the ***.

But if one were to unfortunatly break you have a few options. If it's sticking far enough out of the block, some liquid wrench and a bolt extractor might work. But then if you break the bolt head off while trying to break the bolt loose, you'll be in the same situation I was in just a week ago with my intake manifold. Although the difference being that the intake manifold was aluminum and I'm pretty sure the block isn't, heating up the block with a torch and using a pair of good ol' vise grips (or that bolt extractor) may work out for ya. That's if you have enough of the bolt stickin out to get a hold of it. Now worse case scenario, like I had, the bolt breaks and barely sticking out... I would grind or file it down flat enough to center punch it. Then drill like a 5/32" pilot hole and work your way up in size till your almost to the threads. And drill all the way through the bolt, while trying to avoid drilling into the block of course. This will make things much easier. I would then use a corrosponding sized screw/bolt extractor with a t-handle wrench from a tap and die set. DO NOT use something to get more leverage on the wrench if it's not working. The last thing you want to do is break that extractor in the bolt. They are practically impossible to remove or drill through. You should be able to remove it this way, but if your still stuck you might resort to the liquid wrench or the torch again just for some extra umph. And if that doesn't work you may have to drill it out past the threads to helicoil it and re-tap it. Just keep us updated on your progress if you happen to run into any problems. You'll probably find some real good advise and some good tricks that some of the other guys in here have figured out from decades in the shop. Good luck

Chris

 

If you break a bolt off in the head find someone skilled in tig welding. A skilled welder can weld a T shape onto the broken stud and screw it out. Do not attempt to drill it out yourself. If it comes down to that just pull the head and take it to a machine shop. I will guarantee that you will screw the head up even further if you try the drill and easyout method. Just leave it to the skilled professionals.

 

Come by some "Kroil" from Kano Labs, for the rusty bolts & nuts & spray it on say the night before you begin work.

Sometimes a little heat with the Kroil will help it peneterate even deeper. This stuff really hates rust!!!

You can usually find it at most industrial tool supply or electrical distibutor houses, or you can order it online from Kano Labs.

Why go to the trouble to get it???? Well use it one time & you'll know why!!!!

Maintenance guy at work heard about & came by my Lab to borrow my spray can of Kroil, to try to get some galled up stainless vacuum system bolts loose. They usually had to torch/burn them off, so when he returned the can & told me that was the first time they had ever been able to unscrew those galled up fastners & inquired as to what the heck is in there & I said they call it SiliKroil, Steve replied "they ought to call it kick **** in a can", so thereafter thats how we referred to it!!!! lol

It really is good stuff & comes plain, moly, graphite, or silicone loaded.