trying to find out axle code
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trying to find out axle code
I need to find out which axle I have in my 1997 f250 4x4. My rear diff. cover is rusted through and I guess I did not expect it to be hard to find out which one I need. My door sticker says axle code C5 The tag on the axle says 8 132P 10 10 27K21. Can anyone help me? Thanks
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Thanks alot for the info. I'm new to diesel trucks and to this site. I have always wanted a powerstroke, finally got the chance to buy one last week from a friend who bought it new and did no mods on it.I read about the 6637 air filter mod. Does it really make a difference,if so how much better is an air box setup? I got lots of quetions but I'll read through the forum to get some answers. Thanks again. Mac
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,412
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From: Munroe falls, Ohio
the factory airbox was recalled because it leaked dirt past the airfilter into the engine. check the turbo fins to see if the engine has injested dirt in its lifetime. They should be straight and sharp not dull and chipped. also check the orange intake boot by the turbo, i believe its been recalled because it rips easily and leads to dirt injestion.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
Welcome to FTE.
Your axle code says 4:10 LS like already stated.....IF.... the gear hasn't been swapped out for a 3:73 or 3:55. The only way to know for sure is to open it up.
If you are looking for a new diff cover you can use one from any sterling 10.25 or sterling 10.5. There was an aluminum finned cover for sale at the dealership a couple years ago for about $35....
Part number 8C3Z-4033-A
More info:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ver-cheap.html
Your axle code says 4:10 LS like already stated.....IF.... the gear hasn't been swapped out for a 3:73 or 3:55. The only way to know for sure is to open it up.
If you are looking for a new diff cover you can use one from any sterling 10.25 or sterling 10.5. There was an aluminum finned cover for sale at the dealership a couple years ago for about $35....
Part number 8C3Z-4033-A
More info:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ver-cheap.html
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,231
Likes: 130
From: Thomasville, GA
Most of the internals from the 10.5 will work in a 10.25 as well.
The 6637 filter is a great mod to do. Also to go with it a 3" downpipe compliments it very well helping get the air out that you let in.
If I were to do only two mods those would be the ones.
The 6637 filter is a great mod to do. Also to go with it a 3" downpipe compliments it very well helping get the air out that you let in.
If I were to do only two mods those would be the ones.
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Thanks for all the info. Why all the talk about a 3" down pipe? It appears to have a 4" down pipe now. I know it is oblong but it should still have as much airflow as a 3". Is it because a 3' is smooth inside?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,231
Likes: 130
From: Thomasville, GA
The squashed one really restricts flow. And it only ends up as 3.5" in the end.
I put the 3" in mine and it made a big difference in how fast the turbo spools. They also make downpipes that start at 3" and then change to 3.5" or 4" by the end of it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7657806
That's the post I did on my downpipe install. You can see a big difference in the pics.
I put the 3" in mine and it made a big difference in how fast the turbo spools. They also make downpipes that start at 3" and then change to 3.5" or 4" by the end of it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7657806
That's the post I did on my downpipe install. You can see a big difference in the pics.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,231
Likes: 130
From: Thomasville, GA
There's a body seam that you cut in two places (about halfway down the firewall) and then bend up as much as you can. There's also a heat shield there which some people leave or you can trim it.
It would have only taken me about 2 hours but the sawzall I was using to cut it was battery powered and the batteries died too fast for me to cut the whole downpipe all at once.
Really wasn't too difficult, and should only take 2-3 hours to do it.
Also a lot of guys do a Cat delete at that point too. Mine was already gone when I did it and I made a custom exhaust after the downpipe.
It would have only taken me about 2 hours but the sawzall I was using to cut it was battery powered and the batteries died too fast for me to cut the whole downpipe all at once.
Really wasn't too difficult, and should only take 2-3 hours to do it.
Also a lot of guys do a Cat delete at that point too. Mine was already gone when I did it and I made a custom exhaust after the downpipe.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,724
Likes: 4
From: Rogersville, TN
or jack the rear end of the truck up. draw a line on the driveshaft and one on the tire. have one person turn the tire one full rotation while the other counts the number of revolutions on the driveshaft.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
It might work if it's a LS carrier....but the clutches need to be in good shape (not slipping) and/or the brakes are backed off so both sides turn together.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,724
Likes: 4
From: Rogersville, TN
it will work on a l/s for sure. i was just under two of them last night taking the driveshafts out. ill have to check it on an open one in the next day or two. thats how ive always checked them though.