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I have been trying to track down why my engine oil temps run so hot. Thought I'd throw it out for opinions and I need to get this corrected soon.
Here is the issue:
Running unloaded at 70mph, EOT's are 240* at about 1700 RPM. I verified it with my scanner AND also used a Laser temp gun to make sure my EOT sensor wasn't bad. Both the scanner and laser where within a few degrees of each other. I also shot the oil cooler which was 237* and shot the bottom of the oil pan which was 210*.
My coolant temps shooting the upper radiator hose was 184* and the lower hose was 147*.
From everyone I have talked with, the coolant temps and EOT's should be very close to each other. Mine are not.
Last year, I saw EOT's of about 195-205* with the same setup.
Sounds to me like an obstruction in the oil cooler. You didnt do any hardblok by chance did you? The extra shearing of the dual Hpops arent helping matters any either. If i were you, i would buy a new oil cooler core, 4 o-rings two gaskets, make a day project out of it. Even running my truck 2300*+ the EOT only got up to 230ish and it started making some funkkkyyy noises.
Sounds to me like an obstruction in the oil cooler. You didnt do any hardblok by chance did you? The extra shearing of the dual Hpops arent helping matters any either. If i were you, i would buy a new oil cooler core, 4 o-rings two gaskets, make a day project out of it. Even running my truck 2300*+ the EOT only got up to 230ish and it started making some funkkkyyy noises.
Well it does have a new oil cooler on it. I guess it could be something to look at though.
I was also wondering if maybe I have a thermostat stuck closed or partially closed.
If you're concerned with the thermostat, take it out and drop it in a pan of water. Throw it on the stove and bring it up to a boil. You'll be able to watch and see if it's working then.
If you're concerned with the thermostat, take it out and drop it in a pan of water. Throw it on the stove and bring it up to a boil. You'll be able to watch and see if it's working then.
No the block isn't filled.
I'll probably have to try your suggestion and pull the t-stat.
I have been trying to track down why my engine oil temps run so hot. Thought I'd throw it out for opinions and I need to get this corrected soon.
Here is the issue:
Running unloaded at 70mph, EOT's are 240* at about 1700 RPM. I verified it with my scanner AND also used a Laser temp gun to make sure my EOT sensor wasn't bad. Both the scanner and laser where within a few degrees of each other. I also shot the oil cooler which was 237* and shot the bottom of the oil pan which was 210*.
My coolant temps shooting the upper radiator hose was 184* and the lower hose was 147*.
From everyone I have talked with, the coolant temps and EOT's should be very close to each other. Mine are not.
Last year, I saw EOT's of about 195-205* with the same setup.
any thoughts or suggestions to pass along?
Greg
Is this the same engine too?
I know you've replaced it with that 500HP beast you now have, just don't know when.
.
I've put a thermostat in a pot of boiling water to test it function and it opened.
But the engine was still overheating and a new t-stat fixed it. It just wasn't opening fast enough..
.
I guess I'm saying, to replace the thermostat and take it from there.
But the water temperature should be too high as well so the numbers aren't adding up for me on this, Greg.
I'll be interested in hearing the outcome of a new t-stat.
.
I've had EOT up to 245 before on a gasser GTI, climbing the Coquihalla Pass in August one time, but the coolant guage stayed the same.
That car would run 220 in the dead of winter on the freeway and that's the way that all of them behave.
Is this the same engine too?
I know you've replaced it with that 500HP beast you now have, just don't know when.
.
I've put a thermostat in a pot of boiling water to test it function and it opened.
But the engine was still overheating and a new t-stat fixed it. It just wasn't opening fast enough..
.
I guess I'm saying, to replace the thermostat and take it from there.
But the water temperature should be too high as well so the numbers aren't adding up for me on this, Greg.
I'll be interested in hearing the outcome of a new t-stat.
.
I've had EOT up to 245 before on a gasser GTI, climbing the Coquihalla Pass in August one time, but the coolant guage stayed the same.
That car would run 220 in the dead of winter on the freeway and that's the way that all of them behave.
My mods are the same Dan, but it was a different block. The other one was trashed when a piston skirt ripped. All of my mods are the same. I'm leaning toward a t-stat problem too. This engine block was completely rebuilt.
I just went out again and drove the truck. The HPOP resivour cover was 224*, I shot a freeze plug on the pass side of the block which read 180*. The upper radiator hose was firm and not squishy. I shot the billet housing where the T-stat resides and it was 200*
Is there something that magically invisibly blocks off flow of water the the rear of the block? If it gets in the front, it gets to the back, and out to the oil cooler
Is there something that magically invisibly blocks off flow of water the the rear of the block? If it gets in the front, it gets to the back, and out to the oil cooler
I hope not. Invisible magic stuff is hard to fix
The short stem can't open enough to provide proper flow, so you need to change it to a long one. 180 at the freeze plug doesn't sound like you're overheating your engine though. Let us know what difference you see with the long thermostat.
Is there something that magically invisibly blocks off flow of water the the rear of the block? If it gets in the front, it gets to the back, and out to the oil cooler
No,it has to do with a by-pass and the short stem T-stat will not let water to the rear of the engine,I know thats a vague decription,but a guru will chime in on this Im sure...
Phil