Bill I did some trucking in the mid 80s for a just in time company that worked a lot for the auto industry. I have been to the loading or unloading docks at Ford plants and seen boxes with GM logos stamped on them. I have been to farms that had been converted to commercial use making parts for the auto industry. I have hauled parts from one company plant to another plant that assembled parts that went to a auto plant for final assembly.

I have no problems believing that Ford ran parts from a GM owned subsidiarity in their vehicles.

I have been to a plant in SC that had wire spoke wheel covers for every brand American made car built in the US.

Murry, Find a donor truck. lift the front wheels off the ground, grab a tire at the top and bottom and give it a test for play, 1/8" or less is OK. Then do a side to side test for play 1/8" or less OK. More on either might call for a pass or replacement parts.

I think you are worrying a bit too much about the little things. I have bought trucks sold parts that I didn't need for more than I paid for the truck, making the parts that I used on my upgrade -0- in cost.

As I stated before The steering gear isn't bad for wearing out.




John

 

The term saginaw on the ford trtuck power steering refers to the transition from the old to the new.
From,
"Gemmer and worm"
To,
"Saginaw type recirculating ball".

Saganaw may have made parts for Ford.
Ford mad parts for GM, International, Chrysler, and Diamond.

I dont care. I call it the Saginaw style PS. It is Ford steering.

 

Thanks for the advice to everyone, sounds like i'm making this out to be more complicated job than it needs to be. I'm going to look around for a donor truck and get all my steering parts as well as everything from the king pins on out for a disc brake conversion as well. What year's front ends are compatible?

Thanks again.

Murray

Murray

 

79 is the cut off year, anything in the 70's i think.

 

Go with power steering and disc brake upgrade if your taking the plunge. 73-79 I believe. Grab everything from the springs to the radius arms. Then jump up top and grab power brake booster bracket, booster, and master(don't forget the proportioning valve). Might want to grab the power steering pump. Don't stop there, grab the steering column that matches what you already have (manuel or auto trans). Now your starting to see why guys just buy a truck for $500, strip what they need, sell a few parts to friends or others, then scrap the rest. If this is not your daily driver, it probably will be once you start adding the upgraded stuff.

Don't do the frame swap. Its a pain in the ****. Its really more work in the long run. The only advantage is that is allows you to get the frame, engine, trans, and all the running gear upgraded, while you still get to drive your old truck. Then its a matter of switching everything over.

 

I've already got the brake booster and master that came stock on the truck, they work great so the only work to the brakes is the actual rotors, backing plate & king pins. I was going to do the king pins on their own, but figured it might make more sense to hold off and do them in conjunction with a brake conversion. Yeah, I would prefer to just buy an truck and scrap what i need, but i don't have the room for an exra vehicle sitting around. This is a psuedo daily driver right now, but the power steering is the real hassle for in-city work. As much as i hate to admit it....i live in the city.

murray

 

The term remanufactured inre to these gearboxes is also a mis-nomer.

The ONLY parts that are replaced in one of these so-called rebuilt or remanufactured gearboxes are the two seal kits which retail for 44 bucks for the pair!

F3AZ3E502A = MSRP: $21.72 / y2kfordparts.com price: $15.72 // D7AZ3E501B = MSRP: $21.98 / y2kfordparts.com price: $15.83.

Fit: 1965 and later Ford P/S gearboxes (Galaxie/LTD's and etc. used this P/S box beginning in 1965..and thru 2002 in Crown Vic's, Lincoln Town Cars & Merc Grand Marquis).

Within a year or so, the so-called remanufactured P/S gearbox will begin leaking again, so it will be time for another.

The late 1969 thru 1979 F100/350 P/S gearboxes spool valve sold for well over 200 bucks when new.

None have been available for 20 years at least, so it's not replaced, except maybe by a used one that is in better shape than the one that was in there originally.

The major reason the Ford gearboxes fail is there are no bearings in the case...and no autoparts store in the world goes thru the trouble to mill the case and install them.

You want a good P/S gearbox? This is the way to go: redheadsteeringgears.com who does go thru the trouble to install those bearings that Ford left out..on purpose.

Go to their site and read all about it.

 

Gemmer and worm? What the heck is that?

Gemmer was one of the manufacturers of steering gearboxes, as was Ross and both use a steering shaft and worm (Ford basic p/n 3524).

There are basically two types of steering, recirculating ball and rack & pinion.

btw: When you go to the parts store, make sure you tell them you have Ford P/S when you buy seal kits, otherwise...

 

Murrmeister: Like Bill says, the best way to do this is use the Ford name. We here on the Board use the name "Bendix box" and "Saginaw box" to distinguish between the two, because they both are viable factory and upgrade options.
If we don't make the distinction, and only use the Ford moniker,. it engenders confusion.
However, outside of us Slick enthusiasts, just use the term Ford and specify the year the box was intended for.
If, while at the parts store, you specify Ford power steering for a '66-69.5, the Bendix gearbox should (operative word here is should) be the one they try to sell you.
If you specify Ford power steering for a 69.5 to a '79, they should sell you a gearbox or parts for the later Saginaw manufactured gearbox.

For example, for my '66 F-100, I used a '76 F-150 as a donor for my power steering, steering linkages and power disc brakes on my '66. When I ask for parts, I specify a '76 F-150.
When I want engine parts, I specify a '70 Lincoln with a 460.
When I want engine accessory belts, I specify a '92 with a 460 - because I put the serpentine belts and pulleys on my 460.

 

1969.5 refers to this in the 1964/72 Ford truck parts catalog.

Bendix P/S: 1966/68 and 1969's before serial number D96,001.

Ford P/S: 1969's from serial number D96,001, 1970 and later.

Serial number D96,001 is circa midyear 1969 aka 1969.5.

 

numberdummy, banjopicker66, jowilker, billw & drof46...

Ok this is getting somewhat interesting...Redhead Steering Gear is the same guy that my local mechanic recommended to rebuild a "Bendix" box for my truck. I'm still not seeing why everyone is so definitive about "Ford" steering unit over the "Bendix".

I thought that the justifications for NOT using a "Bendix" were that it would leak and overheat. If numberdummy is correct and I can expect the more "stout" ford box to begin leaking or otherwise require more work in a year or so.....why does that justify going through all the column modifications? The local guy has been in bus for 45 years and said the only way he'd go is to get a bendix core and have it rebuilt by redhead. Yes, the machining costs, but you end up with a well machined gear box that you will not have to touch again and can avoid all the column modifications.

murray

 

murray, Look if you want to go with your local, go in peace. All we can do is tell you what we think works best. He thinks the Bendix is the best. I don't agree but more power to him.

I think Bill spoke a little tongue in cheek, there is no guarantee that the seal kit will leak in 2 years.

I put a seal kit in my truck 11 years ago and last I look it was still dry.


Based on all that I have read here over the years, I can not recommend to anyone to go with the Bendix. It was replaced about 40 years ago with the Saginaw because it was a junk system. That in itself should tell you something.

It's your truck, your choice, your money.




John

 

John...it all depends on how many times the Ford P/S gearbox was resealed and who resealed it.

Considering how many years have wandered on by, the quality of the workmanship and other factors, many have been resealed at least 5 times.

You prolly lucked out with a box that had never been resealed before.

As far as Red Head rebuilding Bendix units...that's news to me.

First off...why would anyone want to, considering the source of parts is drying up?

The Ford unit has used the same two seal kits (input/output) for 45 years, and they are readily available for cheap.

The one Bendix master seal kit fits 4 years, the last MSRP was well over 100 bucks, and there ain't too many left, according to how many I've been able to find.

 

The Bendix box SUCKS.... It wanders like a drunken monk on friday. and will blow the seals on over pressure as it is a direct pressure type unit with no bypass. The reason there a couple of year thing is due to ford realizing there JUNK....

I will make it plain... Even rebuilt they are JUNK... I don't even save them for cores i chuck them in the junk barrell.

They also require a unobtanium power steering pump and bracket that is uh.. unobtanium unless you purchase a donor truck........You cannot use the later Saginaw slipper type pump with the Bendix box. Ever hear the squeal all later ford PS pumps make... It is bypassing the pressure upon a spike to avoid blowing the seals. The Bendix pump does not have this feature and uses direct hydraulic pressure. Hence upon hitting the stops on a tight turn the pump blows the seals and you begin to immediately **** fluid all over.

Did i say the bendix box is junk....

I have placed quite a few Siagnaw type boxes in early chassis. I just go get a rebuilt one at NAPA and have never blown a seal or had one go south in a month. if it does just take it back and get another as there warranted.

Garbz

 

Thanks for your experience.

I've decided to go to redhead and get one of his modified/rebuilt ford gear boxes with bearings, etc. I'll get the rest of my gear from a local yard. I've found the pump the bracket (seems to be kinda rare). I've also found a ford pump (round one) with a pulley on it, but wondering how I figure out what size crank pulley and harmonic balancer I need? How do i know the two pulley diameter's are compatible?

It seems that this is such a common conversion that someone should write up a complete "how-to" with good photos (including the pulley sizing, etc) so, you old timer's don't get sick of explaining the same thing over and over.

Murray