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I have been thinking I need new batteries because I have had to put the charger on them a few times this summer. And last weekend, a couple times my truck would crank but not start the first time trying. So, yesterday I was playing in my shop and decided to check the batts again. I put the meter on the battery post while running, and I got 12.7V. I thought that strange while running, so I put the meter on the battery clamps, and got 14.xxV. I didn't think that was right, so I cleaned the post and connections. I tested them again and got 14.xxV on the battery post and on the clamps. Looking at the clamps, you would not think they were dirty, but goes to show, just because it looks good don't mean it is good. Now my truck cranks and starts like I have new batteries. Cranks so much faster.
Good tip.. Another way I like to check my batteries is with a hydrometer.. Napa sells a good one for about $20.. You can check each cell to see if any of them are getting weak.. Must have the batteries fully charged to do this hydrometer test however..
This heat wave we are having is really taking its toll on batteries. When I replaced my alternator last week the auto parts store battery racks were almost empty. When I asked the guy behind the counter about it he said alot of batteries are cratering because of the heat.
This heat wave we are having is really taking its toll on batteries. When I replaced my alternator last week the auto parts store battery racks were almost empty. When I asked the guy behind the counter about it he said alot of batteries are cratering because of the heat.
Heat will kill the batteries faster than cold. Extreme heat will "warp" the plates inbetween the cells. This is why cell phone batteries crap out so quickly.
Rick to prevent that in the future use some Noalox on the posts then put the clamps on.
Heat will kill the batteries faster than cold. Extreme heat will "warp" the plates inbetween the cells. This is why cell phone batteries crap out so quickly.
Rick to prevent that in the future use some Noalox on the posts then put the clamps on.
Well that settles it, battery maintance at Jasons, just a finger dab of it for everybody.. Great tip Rick and everybody, will do before the big trip...
Good tips rick and Jim. Noalox, I haven't heard of it. I assume it is a corrosion preventative while also being conductive.
It's primary purpose is to prevent oxidation of aluminum.
In the not-so-distant past, it was legal to use aluminum conductors for household electrical current, and a lot of homes were wired with it instead of the more-traditional (and expensive) copper. The buss bars inside breaker boxes were also allowed, and I still see them a bunch here in SoCal.
The problem with aluminum is that it immediately oxidizes on its surface, and aluminum oxide is not nearly as good a conductor as its base metal. This outer layer of oxide, being not as good a conductor, has some resistance, thus heat is built up at any junction (splice), especially where dissimilar metals is concerned. Things like the screw terminals on switches and duplex plugs (made of brass).
Over time, the oxide layer builds up, the resistance goes up, the connection gets "flakier", and heat builds up to the point where sparks were known to happen, as well as smoke (if you were lucky!) and maybe even fire!
Places sometimes burned down as a result, and aluminum conductors are no longer allowed for these kinds of wiring jobs. But there's still a lot of it out there. 3M makes "pigtails" that one can use to adapt the existing wire to copper, but they have to be applied perfectly or you still have problems.
So, Noalox was born. it stands for
No=no
Al=aluminum
Ox=oxidation
It's purpose is to keep air away from the aluminum it coats. No air = no oxygen = no oxidation = low resistance connections = less heat = less chance of fire = safer homes.
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