competition headers and O2 sensor
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
competition headers and O2 sensor
Am installing Hooker headers and exhaust on my 93 F150, 5.0, 4.10 rear and some mods. to engine. There isn't any provision for O2 sensor (naturally) but do I have to have it? Can I tap into the exhaust pipe (after header but before catalytic) and install one there?
Freshman User
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
competition headers and O2 sensor
I must admit that I am not totally sure on this, but here goes. I think that the main issue you will run into is that it will take longer for the oxygen sensor to get up to temperature. The result is that the computer will run the fuel system in the open loop mode for a longer period of time until the sensor gets up to temp. If you did not run a sensor, then your engine would likely always run rich as it would always think that it is still trying to warm up. Running an engine rich is not bad for the engine..... but... your catalytic converter is going to get very very hot trying to deal with all the extra unburnt fuel. In conclusion, go with the sensor. Install it as close to the engine as is practical so that it can get to and stay at operating temperatures quicker. BB
New User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Thousand Oaks USA
competition headers and O2 sensor
Hey,
I am currently dealing with that particular question in my 94 F-350. It has a stainless Gibson exhaust system in it, and does have an O2 sensor in it. On my 94 it uses a 4 wire heated sensor. The heater part of the sensor is dead,(so it's getting replaced), and it does an interesting thing. Because of how far away from the heads the sensor is, and that the stainless headers transfer heat really well the sensor doesn't work properly. I hooked up a Snap-On scanner to the truck and drove around a while while watching the sensors' output voltage. It was so erratic and out of range that the engine computer kept going from open loop to closed loop and back the whole time. Idle; open. Accelerate;closed. Cruise; either one. So if you' re going to run a sensor, (which is the right thing to do), use a heated one if your wiring harness is set up for it. Otherwise, you may want to try a header wrapping material, (that's what I'm going to do) to help keep the heat going to the sensor so that it doesn't confuse the heck out of your computer.
I am currently dealing with that particular question in my 94 F-350. It has a stainless Gibson exhaust system in it, and does have an O2 sensor in it. On my 94 it uses a 4 wire heated sensor. The heater part of the sensor is dead,(so it's getting replaced), and it does an interesting thing. Because of how far away from the heads the sensor is, and that the stainless headers transfer heat really well the sensor doesn't work properly. I hooked up a Snap-On scanner to the truck and drove around a while while watching the sensors' output voltage. It was so erratic and out of range that the engine computer kept going from open loop to closed loop and back the whole time. Idle; open. Accelerate;closed. Cruise; either one. So if you' re going to run a sensor, (which is the right thing to do), use a heated one if your wiring harness is set up for it. Otherwise, you may want to try a header wrapping material, (that's what I'm going to do) to help keep the heat going to the sensor so that it doesn't confuse the heck out of your computer.
