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The clutch is supposed to cycle - like I said. That is how it maintains temperature. But it should it stay one for over 30 seconds before turning back off
Also, too late now, but that stop leak stuff is nasty, and does no good for your AC system. It works by "hardening" when it comes into contact with air, around the hole. But now, if you ever need to replace a part on the system, you will have to change every single part of the system, because the stop leak will have hardened in everything.
Do a close visual inspection of all the hose fittings, crimped connections and the compressor clutch and the compressor case seams. Look for signs of oil staining or oily dirt accumulation. With a leak that big, it shouldn't be too hard to spot.
You can also pressurize the system with R134a, no sealer this time, and use kids bubble solution and a brush to coat the suspect areas while looking for bubbles.
I have a ratteling noise while the clutch is not engaged, when the clutch is engaged the noise stops. I'm thinking that the bearing has gone bad. I can get a new clutch and pulley from Autozone for $89or I can get a whole new one for $125. One how hard would it be to just replace the clutch vs replacing the whole compressor??
I have a ratteling noise while the clutch is not engaged, when the clutch is engaged the noise stops. I'm thinking that the bearing has gone bad. I can get a new clutch and pulley from Autozone for $89or I can get a whole new one for $125. One how hard would it be to just replace the clutch vs replacing the whole compressor??
That would be the clutch hub but not the pulley. The flex plate of the hub has disintegrated.
Buy the MotorCraft branded hub only. Do not buy the part offered by AutoZone. The hub costs around $50 from site sponsor Rockauto.com and only takes a few minutes to replace. Look up the correct part number at www.motorcraft.com
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