Wet cold
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Senior User
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From: South-East Tx.
Wet cold
Just put new orfice tube and drier on my 1988 F-150, put in r134a, not cooling very good, got new fan-clutch, my compressor is cold and wet so is my drier, the pressure is 45 psi low 250 on hi side, why is compressor sweating and cold.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: South-East Tx.
Yep, I know it will go down a lot thats how I get the last bit of freon in, I don't know if it is overcharged or not, temp through vents goes up and down, with the compressor not cycling, got almost 3 # of freon in.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
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From: Lorain County, Ohio
It sounds like your evaporator is plugged externally.
Not much heat is being removed from the Evap, so everything after it is soaking up heat. The Suction line from the Evap should be "cool" but not cool enough for the compressor to also be cold and sweaty.
Your refrigerant loop is working as it's supposed to, it's just looking for air to cool. Clean the mouse nest out of the evaporator case and detergent/surfactant (Dawn Dish Soap and water) flush the evaporator. You'll be good to go.
Frickin mice! I've had about 8 systems so far this season that needed a nest cleaned out of the evap case, along with their crap in the evaporator!!
Those repairs pay good money, but they sure are a PITA. The instrument panel often has to come out to expose the evap for cleaning.
I'd rather sell and explain a Black Death compressor failure to a customer.
How do you explain to a customer that his AC system, that makes nice cold air but just not enough of it, needs a ~$500-1200 repair??
Not much heat is being removed from the Evap, so everything after it is soaking up heat. The Suction line from the Evap should be "cool" but not cool enough for the compressor to also be cold and sweaty.
Your refrigerant loop is working as it's supposed to, it's just looking for air to cool. Clean the mouse nest out of the evaporator case and detergent/surfactant (Dawn Dish Soap and water) flush the evaporator. You'll be good to go.
Frickin mice! I've had about 8 systems so far this season that needed a nest cleaned out of the evap case, along with their crap in the evaporator!!
Those repairs pay good money, but they sure are a PITA. The instrument panel often has to come out to expose the evap for cleaning.
I'd rather sell and explain a Black Death compressor failure to a customer.
How do you explain to a customer that his AC system, that makes nice cold air but just not enough of it, needs a ~$500-1200 repair??
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: South-East Tx.
Hey, thanks for the replys, it blows plenty of air and on fresh air I get a lot of water draining out of the evap. I am going to put the gauges back on, now that is has ran a few days and see what it shows, hey thanks need all the help I can get.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 5
From: Lorain County, Ohio
Take your pressure readings with the engine at 1500 rpm, Max AC, High Blower, doors open. Give the system about 5 minutes under those conditions to stabilize.
If you charged 3# of refrigerant into the system, you're overcharged. Your original pressures don't seem to reflect that though, unless the engine was at idle.
If you charged 3# of refrigerant into the system, you're overcharged. Your original pressures don't seem to reflect that though, unless the engine was at idle.
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From: South-East Tx.
OK,101, did what you said ran rpms up to 1500 for about 5 min. pressure went way up 325 hi side, and 55 low side, then the fan clutch kicked in and pulled the pressure down to 275 hi, and 45 low, over charged rite, got it down to 225 hi and 35 low, out side temp was 91, temp on vents was 48 on hi max with the doors closed. I put a new fan clutch on in March but don't remember what brand, it really changes rpms when you hold the engine rpms up does yours? Well I guess it is about all a 22 yr old truck with 437,000 miles can do thanks for your help.
John
John
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