Help with bleeding air from fuel system
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New User
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Help with bleeding air from fuel system
I recently changed fuel lifter pump, fuel filter, redid the O-rings on the fuel bowl, and replaced IPR on a 96 f250 7.3L and am having a hell of a time getting the thing restarted. I have already drained the batteries down once and am wondering if there is a way to prime the system to get the air out? It is primed up to the pump, and I filled the bowl up with diesel, but I am hardly getting anything out of the fuel lines that come off the bowl. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks - Chris
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: MICHIGAN
Welcome to FTE
There are a couple plugs that can be removed but it's a lot of work and may net you more bad o-rings. Keep cranking it but don't fry the starter. It can take quite a while to the air out.
You may be battling 2 things, fuel and oil. Check the HPOP level. Should be about an inch from the top, if not fill it.
Once it gets going it might take 15-20 miles before the engine straightens out completely. Keep us posted.
There are a couple plugs that can be removed but it's a lot of work and may net you more bad o-rings. Keep cranking it but don't fry the starter. It can take quite a while to the air out.
You may be battling 2 things, fuel and oil. Check the HPOP level. Should be about an inch from the top, if not fill it.
Once it gets going it might take 15-20 miles before the engine straightens out completely. Keep us posted.
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well the one O-ring on the regulator piece on the side of the fuel bowl is leaking, pulled it out and the o-ring was crushed so now im waiting on that for now. thanks for your input and I will keep you posted once I get this fixed.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 14,069
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From: Melbourne, Ky
Once you get it running, the best way to get the rest of the air out of the lines is to drive it. And don't baby it either. Make it work hard, or as some like to say, drive it like you stole it!
By the way, Welcome to FTE!
By the way, Welcome to FTE!
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Well, got the o-ring issue fixed, found that one of my return lines was cracked, fixed that, now back to the same rough idle/no power issue I was having. I pulled the passenger vc and both plugs looked fine and were all the way plugged in. Running out of light today, so I havent had a chance to pull the driver's side yet. I am not getting any check engine lights however I do not have a scanner to see if it is putting out any codes. I started it up and tried to pull the icp to see if it would help any and it shut off and popped up a cel. Plugged it back in and it started back up. Am I on the right track with pulling the valve cover or is there another direction I should be going? Truck has about 232000 miles on it. Problem originally started when I hit a rather large pot hole and then all power was non-existant. Thanks in advance for any help! - Chris
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
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From: MICHIGAN
Take a look at the IPR valve on the back of the HPOP. There is an electrical connector and a large tin nut. Tighten the not and look for a loose electrical connections. Do not over tighten the nut, it will strip.
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I replaced the IPR, connection is good and the nut is on there tight. Sensor piece is unable to move. =/
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well now I cant even get her running =/ Replaced the CPS and sometimes she acts like she wants to kick over but each kick from her is puffing out quite a bit of white smoke from the tailpipe. Kind of stumped on this one. All 8 injectors couldnt go bad at the same time could they..lol