5.8 Hard to Start
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
212 = What color is your ICM on the fender (black or gray)?
A gray one would cause loss of performance and the MIL (CEL) to be on.
334 = EGR valve is not closing all the way, maybe carbon at the seat not letting it close.
This would cause a poor idle and loss of power at WOT.
A gray one would cause loss of performance and the MIL (CEL) to be on.
334 = EGR valve is not closing all the way, maybe carbon at the seat not letting it close.
This would cause a poor idle and loss of power at WOT.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Change the TFI module to a black one. The Gray one is the wrong one and you will not run as well with it. You have no feed back to the PCM computer with the GRAY one. The GRAY TIF does not have an IDM output to the Computer. Your truck will not run as well with the GRAY one.
This will also generate the code #212 and turn on the CEL.
Most Auto Part Stores will sell you the wrong one but they do have the right one on the shelf but unless you are very demanding they will not sell you the right one.
Some Ford dealers will also try to sell you the wrong one. If they will not sell you the right one go to another Ford Dealer. You must have a Black one.
Gray module-push start ICM
Black module-CCD ICM.
Most Part books show the wrong TFI (ICM) for your truck.
For more information read page #2 of this PDF:
http://www.capitolautomotive.com/pdf/cccnewsletter.pdf
The wiring for both:
GRAY = http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/r...I_harness1.gif
Black = http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/r...I_harness2.gif
All 4 TFI's together http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/compare_TFIs.gif
This will also generate the code #212 and turn on the CEL.
Most Auto Part Stores will sell you the wrong one but they do have the right one on the shelf but unless you are very demanding they will not sell you the right one.
Some Ford dealers will also try to sell you the wrong one. If they will not sell you the right one go to another Ford Dealer. You must have a Black one.
Gray module-push start ICM
Black module-CCD ICM.
Most Part books show the wrong TFI (ICM) for your truck.
For more information read page #2 of this PDF:
http://www.capitolautomotive.com/pdf/cccnewsletter.pdf
The wiring for both:
GRAY = http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/r...I_harness1.gif
Black = http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/r...I_harness2.gif
All 4 TFI's together http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/compare_TFIs.gif
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
From: Eureka, KS
Put the black Ford module back on, got rid of that code. I can't figure this thing out. I think the computer is going bad, who knows. I guess it's off to the shop. Not sure where to take it, never had anything worked on before 
Have the key on after trying to start it, i'm under the hood staring at everything, it cycles again on it's own, like someone turned the key off then back on, I go in and go from run to start and it starts right up. That's just whacky
Have the key on after trying to start it, i'm under the hood staring at everything, it cycles again on it's own, like someone turned the key off then back on, I go in and go from run to start and it starts right up. That's just whacky
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 396
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From: Eureka, KS
Ok, I found this you had posted elsewhere
I have to go get a new EGR valve tomorrow, I broke the studs on top this evening trying to work out that 334 code. I'll pick up a couple replays and put them in for the EEC and fuel pump.
I have 2 more relays in there own little box right behind that main box. They may be cruise or something.
Sometimes if I pull that PCM diode with the key on and plug it back in the truck will start.
I have to go get a new EGR valve tomorrow, I broke the studs on top this evening trying to work out that 334 code. I'll pick up a couple replays and put them in for the EEC and fuel pump.
I have 2 more relays in there own little box right behind that main box. They may be cruise or something.
Sometimes if I pull that PCM diode with the key on and plug it back in the truck will start.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 396
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From: Eureka, KS
Ok, yeah this truck is setup with all the factory trailer stuff
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 396
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From: Eureka, KS
I grind a tad off the EGR sensor plunger rod, that gets rid of the 334 code. Aftermarket EGR sensor I put on quite a while back.
Won't start. I pull a plug wire and put a misc. plug in it to check for spark. Key is on and I jump the starter solenoid to check for spark....and it fired right up.....
This truck is about to get drove off in a lake
Won't start. I pull a plug wire and put a misc. plug in it to check for spark. Key is on and I jump the starter solenoid to check for spark....and it fired right up.....
This truck is about to get drove off in a lake
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
From: Eureka, KS
Got a new EGR valve on there, new coil, and replaced the 2 relays. Now I have 111 codes KOEO and KOER test, 
Still have the problem. It's sure looking like the ETC sensor. Hard start first off, dies during warm up, hard to get back started, then seems to be fine after that, until it sits again.
I do get the 116 code running the KOER test if I run the test before engine is up to temperature. I'm assuming that's because it's supposed to be up to temperature before running the test.
Still have the problem. It's sure looking like the ETC sensor. Hard start first off, dies during warm up, hard to get back started, then seems to be fine after that, until it sits again.
I do get the 116 code running the KOER test if I run the test before engine is up to temperature. I'm assuming that's because it's supposed to be up to temperature before running the test.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 396
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From: Eureka, KS
Has started with no problems today, I've been running the code checks on it and such. It is extremely hot outside, not sure if that has anything to do with it.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 396
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From: Eureka, KS
Did a buch of PIP testing. No AC voltage at PIP signal when starting and no spark of course. Went through the procedures to narrow down the no voltage. Unplugged the EEC connector and then I got like 5.5v AC PIP signal. According to manual the EEC is bad.
I'm about EEC and PIP'd out
Got the EEC out, ordering a new one
I'm about EEC and PIP'd out
Got the EEC out, ordering a new one