5.8 Hard to Start
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 396
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From: Eureka, KS
Yeah, I've checked for leaks, there are no leaks. About a year ago the rear tank was leaking under one of the straps due to rust. I installed a new rear tank. I've replaced the fuel filter since I've had the truck, which would have nothing to do with a leakdown problem though anyways.
With it losing that much fuel to where almost nothing registers on the FP guage at first...it seems like it would have to be in one of the tanks instead of injector/s.
I guess i could just flip a coin and drop one of the tanks to check out the module.
I appreciate all your help and the diagrams. I'm trying to keep my mind open as to what might be the problem.
With it losing that much fuel to where almost nothing registers on the FP guage at first...it seems like it would have to be in one of the tanks instead of injector/s.
I guess i could just flip a coin and drop one of the tanks to check out the module.
I appreciate all your help and the diagrams. I'm trying to keep my mind open as to what might be the problem.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
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From: Easton,Ks
I am not sure on the steel braided fuel lines, you may be able to pinch them with a pinch-off tool and they may be OK afterwards. I just do not know. There may be rubber hose under that steel braid. I do not have one to cut up to find out right now.
If you pinch it and then it is OK please let me know.
If you pinch it and then it is OK please let me know.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Eureka, KS
Just dropped both tanks. Can't blow into tank through either sending unit line on either tank. Locking mechanisim came out and was all bent on the blue hose where it connects to the sending unit rear tank, that otta be expensive to fix.
Definately stuck and lost now
Definately stuck and lost now
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Eureka, KS
Similar, this what my thing looks like
What do you think about the check valves seemily being ok? Used my little air comprssor on about 30psi. Couldn't blow through the large lines that the blue lines attach to but could blow through both the others and they made a vibrating sound. No electrical connected to the sending unit when doing this by the way.
I'm so lost
What do you think about the check valves seemily being ok? Used my little air comprssor on about 30psi. Couldn't blow through the large lines that the blue lines attach to but could blow through both the others and they made a vibrating sound. No electrical connected to the sending unit when doing this by the way.
I'm so lost
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
It sounds like the pumps are good. If the pumps are good even if the FPR was off it seat the lines would remain full as the pumps would not let the fuel back in.
I would think if an injector was leaking that bad the truck would run poor.
If there is no fuel in the vacuum line from the FPR then I would have to go along with the injector as there is no place else for it to go.
I would not try pinching off the lines, it's probably got a hard plastic line under there.
You might disconnect a fuel line and try to plug it off somehow (theres a special tool to do it).
I would think if an injector was leaking that bad the truck would run poor.
If there is no fuel in the vacuum line from the FPR then I would have to go along with the injector as there is no place else for it to go.
I would not try pinching off the lines, it's probably got a hard plastic line under there.
You might disconnect a fuel line and try to plug it off somehow (theres a special tool to do it).
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Eureka, KS
Hopefully I can find that garter spring. All I have in town is a Napa.
With 200,000 miles I'm thinking of just going ahead and replacing both FDM's since I have the tanks dropped. Get a better set of line disconnect tools, replace the filter again while I'm under there. Then start with the stuff up top after that's done.
Might as well put on new FPR and new injectors. The truck runs good, has no problems, doesn't require a drop of oil between oil changes. Seems worth it.
With 200,000 miles I'm thinking of just going ahead and replacing both FDM's since I have the tanks dropped. Get a better set of line disconnect tools, replace the filter again while I'm under there. Then start with the stuff up top after that's done.
Might as well put on new FPR and new injectors. The truck runs good, has no problems, doesn't require a drop of oil between oil changes. Seems worth it.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Eureka, KS
Well, I let it sit for a bit. Wouldn't start, jumped the fuel pump to run constant and started right up. Tried priming and priming, no start, not until I ran the pump constant.
I reused that clip. The hose locked on good and I did put the outer retainer back on as well.
Back to square one....Same fuel pressure using key or jumping the pump but will start only with it jumped...makes no sense
I reused that clip. The hose locked on good and I did put the outer retainer back on as well.
Back to square one....Same fuel pressure using key or jumping the pump but will start only with it jumped...makes no sense
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Eureka, KS
No I decided against putting in new FDM's. The old ones seem to be working and they should. The lines themselves have check vlaves built in at the end that connects to sending unit as well.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
If the FDM's are working right I would get rid of the check valves as they have caused problems. They were only put on after you have a bad check valve in the FDM and were not from the factory. This was to keep from changing the FDM and was put on by Ford dealers after you have the cross fill problem.
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