Torque wrench doesn't work on left hand threads??
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From: Wyoming
Torque wrench doesn't work on left hand threads??
I was installing some alloy wheel simulators on my 1982 E-350 motorhome last night. The driver's side dually has left hand threads, and I was torquing the bolts on everything to about 135 psi. I'm grunting to make that 'pop', and never got it. I mean, I was going for it - vein-in-the-forehead-popping, poop-in-your-pants max effort. No 'ping'. Do click torque wrenches not work on left hand threads? It worked fine otherwise.
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From: Lancaster County PA
They certainly should work on LH threads if they are a reversible ratchet "micrometer" style torque wrench.
The internal pivot can go in either direction.
But, I guess if you used it for RH threads only for 20 years, the possibility of a burr of some sort internally could prevent it from clicking when tightening LH threads.
The internal pivot can go in either direction.
But, I guess if you used it for RH threads only for 20 years, the possibility of a burr of some sort internally could prevent it from clicking when tightening LH threads.
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From: Colorado
Torque wrenches are normally calibrated for right hand threads, unless specified. I calibrated wrenches for over 20 years. Yes, most 'break' type wrenches will 'break' both directions. Look for a break action wrench that states "for left hand use". You could have the wrench calibrated at a local shop as well. Shouldn't cost too much, plus you get the security of knowing he wrench is both accurate and repeatable.
That, or depending upon $$$ available, get a dial or digital wrench. Mechanism is different than break types. Again, make sure the wrench is usable for both RH and LH. Beam wrenches are ok, but hard to read especially when you are shaking to apply that 135 lb./ft. of torque! Dial and digital will hold the peak reading for you, which is nice when used where visibility of the readout is limited.
That, or depending upon $$$ available, get a dial or digital wrench. Mechanism is different than break types. Again, make sure the wrench is usable for both RH and LH. Beam wrenches are ok, but hard to read especially when you are shaking to apply that 135 lb./ft. of torque! Dial and digital will hold the peak reading for you, which is nice when used where visibility of the readout is limited.
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From: Wyoming
Thanks for the info. My internet searching has turned up several sites that say the click types won't do LH threads unless they specifically say so. It wasn't like I paid top dollar for this wrench in 1985 either. I only use it maybe twice a year when I switch to snow tires, so I think it's not getting too much wear.
What should it run me to have it calibrated? Who does it, machine shops?
Ft lbs, not psi - you are correct, Steina.
What should it run me to have it calibrated? Who does it, machine shops?
Ft lbs, not psi - you are correct, Steina.
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From: Harrisburg, NE
my (not so often used) $400 MAC can do left or right, but according to its calibration sheet its not quite as accurate going left (I cant remember what the number were, but its accurate enough that i would feel comfy working on turbo-prop engines with that thing...)
I have only known the tool dealers themselves to take them to have them calibrated, but I don't know where they take them.
I have only known the tool dealers themselves to take them to have them calibrated, but I don't know where they take them.
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From: Colorado
Look in your yellow pages under 'calibration'. Where in Wyoming are you? If in Cheyenne, you could contact Wytech and ask them. Used to be some places in Denver, but since I have moved from there I really don't know any independent labs. Cost should be around $25 or so.
Remember to ALWAYS reset your wrench to the lowest setting when not in use. The springs tend to develop a memory and this will change not only the value but accuracy as well. One last bit of info. Your wrench's accuracy changes with the setting. What I mean is the stated accuracy is for full scale. Example, your wrench has a10 to 100lb/ft, and is rated at +/- 3% fs. This means the accuracy is really +/-3 lb/ft at ANY setting. Should you use it at say, 25 lb./ft. setting, that 3lb./ft. will be +/- 12%! The suggestion is to use a torque wrench in it's upper half of it's range for best accuracy. This may not apply to newer wrenches using strain gauge technology. It has been a while since I worked in calibration. Best to look at each individual wrenches specs!
Remember to ALWAYS reset your wrench to the lowest setting when not in use. The springs tend to develop a memory and this will change not only the value but accuracy as well. One last bit of info. Your wrench's accuracy changes with the setting. What I mean is the stated accuracy is for full scale. Example, your wrench has a10 to 100lb/ft, and is rated at +/- 3% fs. This means the accuracy is really +/-3 lb/ft at ANY setting. Should you use it at say, 25 lb./ft. setting, that 3lb./ft. will be +/- 12%! The suggestion is to use a torque wrench in it's upper half of it's range for best accuracy. This may not apply to newer wrenches using strain gauge technology. It has been a while since I worked in calibration. Best to look at each individual wrenches specs!
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