NEED HELP! Before buying a Bronco!
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NEED HELP! Before buying a Bronco!
I'm just looking for a truck I can take off road. I gotta start somewhere so I was looking at craigslist and I found a 92 Ford Bronco 5.0 4x4 for $750.
I contacted the owner and I found out that the tranny is slipping and something is wrong with driveshaft. That was all that was wrong he said. I won't know till I go over there and see it.
Are these pretty reliable trucks? I'm mainly going to use it as my second vehicle and take it off roading every so often.
What should I look for? Would it be better to rebuild the tranny or get another one? How about the driveshaft? Is the 5.0 a strong engine? Any info will be appreciated!
I contacted the owner and I found out that the tranny is slipping and something is wrong with driveshaft. That was all that was wrong he said. I won't know till I go over there and see it.
Are these pretty reliable trucks? I'm mainly going to use it as my second vehicle and take it off roading every so often.
What should I look for? Would it be better to rebuild the tranny or get another one? How about the driveshaft? Is the 5.0 a strong engine? Any info will be appreciated!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Gateway to the West
Check the FIRST THREAD in this forum or the Red Link in my signature for details and common concerns with these trucks.
A 92 with a slipping automatic could be real trouble. The E4OD automatic in these trucks is probably the most expensive to rebuild of all of the autos that were ever put into the Bronco. (Typical rebuild runs $2500-$2800). However, at only $750 to buy it, you've got the rest of a fullsize 4WD in working order presumably. Have a very close look at it. I'd want to know EXACTLY what kind of "driveshaft problem" the CO is talking about since the cost of a tranny rebuild is going to be expensive enough by itself.
A 92 with a slipping automatic could be real trouble. The E4OD automatic in these trucks is probably the most expensive to rebuild of all of the autos that were ever put into the Bronco. (Typical rebuild runs $2500-$2800). However, at only $750 to buy it, you've got the rest of a fullsize 4WD in working order presumably. Have a very close look at it. I'd want to know EXACTLY what kind of "driveshaft problem" the CO is talking about since the cost of a tranny rebuild is going to be expensive enough by itself.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Bonita Springs FL
I would pass on any Bronco with an E4OD (or any automatic) that you plan on using for mostly wheeling. The pan on that tranny sticks down pretty far and it would be fairly easy to rip it open on a rock, sending your new $2500 tranny to tranny heaven.
Also you will be less than impressed with the 302's power output. I know some will disagree with me on this, but a 300 or 351 makes for a much better motor in a heavy truck like that one (mine weighs in at 5500 lbs).
Overall, they are very reliable vehicles. I haven't had any major issues with mine except for the rear axle (the 8.8" is not a very good design).
Also you will be less than impressed with the 302's power output. I know some will disagree with me on this, but a 300 or 351 makes for a much better motor in a heavy truck like that one (mine weighs in at 5500 lbs).
Overall, they are very reliable vehicles. I haven't had any major issues with mine except for the rear axle (the 8.8" is not a very good design).
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From: Gatineau, Quebec
I just bought mine cheap because the owner said it was slipping out of gear. I grinned quietly...talked him down another 100....bought the truck and swapped out the mlps and it has been fine since. I think these Trannies get a bad rap. Keep the fluid clean and cool and they will last.
Yes they are big *** tranny, but that's what lift kits are for.
The crappy torque converters in them....that's another story.
Yes they are big *** tranny, but that's what lift kits are for.
The crappy torque converters in them....that's another story.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: USA
I would take a good look at the under side of the Bronco. Look for dents, and dry mud caked up between the frame.
This is a good sign that the truck has seen a lot of off-road use and maybe abuse. Such as being under water.
I bought mine from a lady that towed a horse trailer and never used the four wheel drive. She only sold it cause of the gas mileage.
It was real clean inside and under.
That was about eight years ago, the motor still runs great is my daily driver for now. 5.8L, E40D, and 143,000 miles. No problems.
This is a good sign that the truck has seen a lot of off-road use and maybe abuse. Such as being under water.
I bought mine from a lady that towed a horse trailer and never used the four wheel drive. She only sold it cause of the gas mileage.
It was real clean inside and under.
That was about eight years ago, the motor still runs great is my daily driver for now. 5.8L, E40D, and 143,000 miles. No problems.
Last edited by rudedogii; Jun 26, 2009 at 07:17 PM. Reason: spelling error
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I got off the phone with the CO and he was saying that there is approx. 200k, but that the engine was rebuilt not to long ago.
The problem with the driveshaft he was telling me that the driveshaft is a two piece and I guess it starts to wobble. Never heard of that.
Body and interior are in good condition. Any ideas?
The problem with the driveshaft he was telling me that the driveshaft is a two piece and I guess it starts to wobble. Never heard of that.
Body and interior are in good condition. Any ideas?
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: USA
If the rear drive shaft is like my 95. A rebuilt shaft should not cost more than ? I forgot how much the guy charged me for a whole new drive shaft, but I think it was about $300.00.
Besides U-joints there is the slip-yoke that may need to be replaced. So check out getting a whole rebuilt shaft.
For a quik check on an average price check out.
DriveShaftSuperStore.com
Besides U-joints there is the slip-yoke that may need to be replaced. So check out getting a whole rebuilt shaft.
For a quik check on an average price check out.
DriveShaftSuperStore.com
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Elder User
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From: Gatineau, Quebec
Your two piece has a center bearing. This could be causing the vibration, or it could be a u-joint. Unless a balancing weight has fallen off the drive shaft or the previous owner did a lot of off roading and banged up the shaft, I suspect that the drive shaft is fine. I would get underneath check things out.......either way, not an expensive problem.
If it is the shaft, check your local wreckers, I'm sure you'll find a cheap one.
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I just came from the 250 mile journey to go look at the truck. The truck is in decent shape inside and out. It is a 17 year old truck. Engine starts right up and pretty strong.
It was a clunking noise coming from the driveshaft, but it will go away after you pick up some speed.
Also, I didn't notice the tranny slip at all. But the CO did advise me that it does do that every so often. Sometimes it runs very well, sometimes it slips, hitting high revs then shifts. What could that be? I heard it could be a sensor.
All electrical works except for the rear window switch ain't working. Other than that, the truck is stout. I eventually brought it down to $500. What do you guys think?
It was a clunking noise coming from the driveshaft, but it will go away after you pick up some speed.
Also, I didn't notice the tranny slip at all. But the CO did advise me that it does do that every so often. Sometimes it runs very well, sometimes it slips, hitting high revs then shifts. What could that be? I heard it could be a sensor.
All electrical works except for the rear window switch ain't working. Other than that, the truck is stout. I eventually brought it down to $500. What do you guys think?
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Gatineau, Quebec
Badda Bing Badda Boom........How handy are ya????
I would check a u-bolt for the clunking(Can't say which)....I suspect that will solve your problems.
As for the tranny issue....remember these trannies are electronically controlled(remember, it doesn't happen all the time). I suspect a new MLPS might resolve that issue. A complete fluid/filter change is in order regardless....this pertains to ALL fluids.
The engine sounds great...Don't they always?
Hard to say what you mean by decent shape and I don't know what is needed to get it certified(if necessary) and on the road or if you even require one....but for 500, I'd buy it...
I would check a u-bolt for the clunking(Can't say which)....I suspect that will solve your problems.
As for the tranny issue....remember these trannies are electronically controlled(remember, it doesn't happen all the time). I suspect a new MLPS might resolve that issue. A complete fluid/filter change is in order regardless....this pertains to ALL fluids.
The engine sounds great...Don't they always?
Hard to say what you mean by decent shape and I don't know what is needed to get it certified(if necessary) and on the road or if you even require one....but for 500, I'd buy it...
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Go over to fullsizebronco.com as well, and you can find tons of info on the E40D. About that hard shifting, check your vss sensor and give it a good cleaning, check all fluids, do the famous "sixlitre tuneup" on fullsizebronco.com, and that should help with power quite a bit.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Gatineau, Quebec
Just go the the transmission forum here and you will find lots of info.
There is no transmission forum at FSB, but...there are some "Ford" transmission engineers and mechanics here.
Having said that....change the MLPS! You can check & clean the contacts, which may solve the problem. A lot of crud will build up and sometimes infiltrate the connector. The part itself is not overly expensive...under 50 I think.
Oh...did I mention
There is no transmission forum at FSB, but...there are some "Ford" transmission engineers and mechanics here.
Having said that....change the MLPS! You can check & clean the contacts, which may solve the problem. A lot of crud will build up and sometimes infiltrate the connector. The part itself is not overly expensive...under 50 I think.
Oh...did I mention