Rebuilt 7.3 Will Not Start.. Please help
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Rebuilt 7.3 Will Not Start.. Please help
I just had to get a new motor and I finally got it all hooked back up and it is not firing. I got fuel pressure because it runs sprays out of the drain on the fuel bowl. My gauge says I got oil pressure. It just cranks over and over. It seem to me that the injectors are not getting fuel and they will not fire. I checked all my fusees to the PCM and all the other ones too.... Is there a certain way to prime the engine or what do I need to do? It is a 1999 F250 with a 7.3L psd. I have ran out of things to check for and dont know what to do from here. Please help Thanks David
Last edited by cappyd892; Jun 24, 2009 at 06:51 PM. Reason: wrong title
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My batteries are good and they are also on the charger. There is no smoke in the exhaust. I do get a WTS light. The plug next to the oil pressure sender i added oil to it and filled it up and I do have oil pressure. I tried starting it with starter fluid and it starts and runs off that but only for a second, it will not continue.
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Do you have a scanner where you can monitor live data while cranking?
No smoke out the tail pipe while cranking means the injectors are not firing. How long have you tried to crank it? You're going to need to build up oil and pressure in the heads before the injectors can fire. What year truck is this? Does the tach bounce while cranking? Is the HPOP reservoir still full of oil? CPS, IPR, and all the other little electrical connectors plugged back in?
No smoke out the tail pipe while cranking means the injectors are not firing. How long have you tried to crank it? You're going to need to build up oil and pressure in the heads before the injectors can fire. What year truck is this? Does the tach bounce while cranking? Is the HPOP reservoir still full of oil? CPS, IPR, and all the other little electrical connectors plugged back in?
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No I do not have a scanner or anything. I tried cranking it for a long time for the past few days. The tach goes up just a little bit but it does not bounce. I have not checked the reservoir and yes I have all the connections plugged in. Would I still have oil pressure on my gauge if it was not built up in the heads??
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Yes, the gauge reads pressure from a different spot. A few days worth of cranking should have you in good shape unless your reservoir is empty again which means you're not sending oil to the heads. If the tach moves, the CPS should be good. If the oil level in the engine and the HPOP is good, I'd move on to the electrical stuff.
I'd check all the fuses with a test light on each end of the fuse to make sure everything is good there. Then triple check all the wiring connections. Since it sounds like you're getting a CPS signal, pay close attention to the IPR and ICP. Check the wires going to the plugs to make sure there's not a short or burnt wire or pin there. Maybe try unplugging the ICP sensor and see if it starts. Also make sure the 42 pin connector over the drivers side valve cover is in good shape.
I'd check all the fuses with a test light on each end of the fuse to make sure everything is good there. Then triple check all the wiring connections. Since it sounds like you're getting a CPS signal, pay close attention to the IPR and ICP. Check the wires going to the plugs to make sure there's not a short or burnt wire or pin there. Maybe try unplugging the ICP sensor and see if it starts. Also make sure the 42 pin connector over the drivers side valve cover is in good shape.
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From: Savannah
Check the level in the HPOP turn it over for a few seconds 4 or 5 times then check it again if it is low fill it again. I would plug it up (block heater) anything to get the oil moveing. If there is anyway you can put a gauge on the high presure oil port on the head to see it it is building pressure.
Post Fiend
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Yes the ICP is on the front inboard side of the drivers side head. There's not supposed to be oil there if you just unplug the electrical connector, but the sensor itself screws into the oil rail in the head.
If you unscrew the sensor and there's no oil in the rail, your HPOP is not pumping oil towards the injectors.
If you unscrew the sensor and there's no oil in the rail, your HPOP is not pumping oil towards the injectors.
Post Fiend
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From: Texas
The LPOP (low pressure oil pump) supplies the oil to the HPOP (high pressure oil pump), but sometimes when starting it up after a complete drain, it loses it's prime. Unscrew the little plug on top of the reservoir and fill it up again, then crank some more. Repeat if necessary. Once the oil system is full, it will stay primed. Don't forget to watch the dipstick if you have to keep adding oil.
If the reservoir keeps going dry too many times, it's time to stick a real gauge on there and monitor actual oil pressure to make sure you don't have a bad oil pump or some issue with the pick up tube.
If the reservoir keeps going dry too many times, it's time to stick a real gauge on there and monitor actual oil pressure to make sure you don't have a bad oil pump or some issue with the pick up tube.
