So I am trying to figure a few things out, and I need a time estimate on doing a frame swap.

Basically I need the amount of man hours it would take to remove a cab and fenders and swap it onto a "newer" 4x4 chassis. Lets say that the chassis has the powertrain and everything, perfectly drivable as is.


So first off I would probably need to make new mounting plates (or just move them), being a blacksmith I have the tools and equipment to do this fairly easily. The biggest dilemma I can see is the pedals and the steering column, getting all of that lined up.

So maybe the best route would be to cut off the floor board and firewall, then weld on the chassis' cab floor and firewall?


What I want to do is get it drivable this way ASAP, then when I'm ready go back and do all the paint and what not. I'll probably just leave everything in primer with a sealer. Course it might not even be feasible at the moment, but I'd just like to hear a few man hour estimates with it.

Thanks.

 

the cab is the biggest work. the front clip should unbolt without problem (I can pull mine in about 30 minutes), 4 bolts at each fender at the cab, and 2 that hold the rad support to the frame. then lift up and out.. (hood off first).

to get the cab off requires some nasty work.
you will have to unbolt the steering box from the frame (and front suspension)
remove the floor plate a tthe column to get the brake & clutch pedals down out of the cab, unhook the parking brake cable at the handle.
remove the 4 mount bolts, 2 front, 2 rear.

now the cab SHOULD lift straight up.
with the steering, seat, doors and glass, you will need to lift it and roll the chassis out from under.. (6 guys could lift it, if they could get a hold of it). 4 did my empty can, no doors just fine.

reverse, set the cab on the new chassis, (threading the brak/clutch pedal thru the access hole. bolt the 4 cab mount bolts, hook up the steering, parking brake.. then work the front clip.

you're probably talking a day 8-12 hrs to do that from scratch with local hand tools, and rusted nuts.

Sam

 

If your frame is flat where the cab mounts it should be pretty easy; however, frame width & length may be an issue. After you take the cab & fenders off I would measure where the mounts are on the old frame and just grind off the rivets and bolt them to your new frame. You may also have some issues with where the tire is centered in the fenders and having enough/too much distance from firewall & engine or engine & front on frame where the radiator support will mount. I don't think there is a quick way to do it it took me about 4 week to mount mine on another original frame. You will need to take many measurements to ensure everything lines up. By the way what frame are you using there are many on this site who can tell you if it will work without a lot of work.

 

Seriously - read this (until your eyes bleed):
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=274702

It goes into WAY more detail than you want for Dakota, Ranger, and S-10 chassis swaps!

~Jason

 

I was looking to use a full sized truck, haven't boughten anything yet, but something like a 70-90s F150 or 250 4x4. Its an F-600 so I have larger fenders, I want big tires with a low ride

It should be simple enough, but my fear is getting everything off, then finding putting it on something else is too much and leaving me up poo-creek without a paddle.

I guess my main concern is lining up the steering and pedals, I've never done that and I feel it will be the biggest obstical. I have a feeling nothing will line up, escpailly the steering and all the gears that requires. I could use the doners steering column, but what if the angle or something else stupid is off...

 

If you use 4x4 chassis the with the steering gear mounted in front close to radiater mount area that would be one area to check for problems . Two and maybe three u-joints should conect your steerig up . If you use three they make a stabilizer bearing to hold it in place , I had to use one on my 34 sedan to get around the headers and motor mounts . Auto transmission will be less work , standard I can't help , i'm sure somebody else can .good luck JIM

 

don't let it freak you out . it's not as hard as you think , but i sent you a pm and in it i described a few things . my 55 was on a two wheel drive 74 with a bigblock in it . i cut the center outta the frame and welded straight rails in { if you do this on a 4x4 your gonna have crap loads of ground clearance as mine sat like a 4x4 hiboy 70's ford did !!!!} and only minor fidgeting on the front cab mounts , and i was able to unbolt the engine frame mounts , move them forward to some holes ford provided and set the engine about 2 inches further ahead with no hacking on the firwall at all . got a passenger car steering box , as they sit upright , a trucks is leaned over to the left , and the column came up in the right spot . if you dont want to shorten the donor frame grab a repop long bed / express bed and it'll bolt right down like it was supposed to be there on a 67-79 frame . i also was able to cut off the front frame horns an d with a mockup of the body was able to stab the front frame rails of a rusted out 55 frame inside the 74's , weld 'em in and doll 'em up for a clean look , and to the unknowing it looks like you got an oe frame under it . welp i've bored ya enough .... just stay away from the 80's through 96 as the wheel base is way off and is gonna require some creative surgery , and or weird body mods , trust me on this , unless you want a challenge !!!!!

 

I don't know where the steering gear is located at on a 4 x 4 pickup chassis , my 79 two wheel drive it is inside the frame close to fire wall and leans to left like [55 f350 ] said . But my 79 bronco mounts outside the frame toward the front , I thought the pickups were the same but I 'v never looked at one . The bronco would be to short I think ? But you being a blacksmith you could stretch that old bronco right out I bet . JIM

 

woops.. I missed 'to a newer chassis.. forget what I said...

Sam

 

Too bad the 89 Broncos won't work, I have one of those I'm not using, lol.

Has anyone found any links or anything regarding a full sized swap? (and yeah Jason that link was very helpful!). The idea of it all seems easy enough, what I'm looking out for is the unexpected problems. I mean I can make anything for it, but I don't want to discover I'm in over my head for the amount of time I have, lol it needs to stay fun. Like I said, it seems easy enough, my biggest concerns are around the doing the steering and pedals. Anyone have any links/info on Frankensteining that?

Another limit is money... to be honest I'll have about $100 to get a chassis and parts after I get it down here. The 272 and 5speed might bring me some more, but the delay will kill me.