Hey,
I finished the install last night, but the switch didn't work.

Here's the deal, the switch I am using is a 2-position switch, On-Off, with the 6 posts on the back and it is DPDT. I have it wired up correctly, I'm sure of that. Here are the results last night: I started the truck, waited for a few seconds, flipped the switch, and nothing happened. I thought the valve would close when I flipped the switch. So I went under the hood and unplugged the plug going into the EBPV and put a multimeter on it. In one switch position, I get only .05 volts on the hot side of the plug. In the other switch position I get a full 13+volts on the hot side of the plug. So to me, the switch seems to be working because isnt the goal to get the keyed power to go through the switch to the ebpv?

I did not try using the switch driving at speed with the TC lockup switch on, could this have been the problem?

Right now I'm thinking maybe I should've gone with the 3-position switch, but then again with the reading I was getting with my multimeter everything seems to be working correctly. So why didn't my valve close?

Thanks for the help.
Bob

 

Wouldn't it be required the TC be locked to benefit from an exhaust brake?

 

I have nothing in front of me right now to look, sorry, but are you needing to put poweer tothe EBPV, or do you need to provide a ground? Sorry I dont have anything in front of me, and my question may be off base, but just a thought..Remember though, that is how we lock out TC.

 

That is sort of my question to, what is the end result I should be going for? Power to the ebpv or grounding out the ebpv? I was under the impression before that I was trying to get the full 12+V to the the EBPV that would normally come from the PCM when it commands the valve to close. When it isn't commanding the valve to close, there is a weaker signal being sent (I think). Hopefully someone can clear this up. Thanks.

Bob

 

Bump, sorry I really need some guidance.

 

I have a similar issue. I have the decel tune on my DP, but it doesn't work. I cleaned the EBPV tube and replaced the sensor. I think I have narrowed it down to the solenoid. On my E99 it hides behind the spyder. It sounds like you may have the same issue. The solenoid may not be kicking in, therefor the EBPV isn't working. I haven't gotten around to removing my spyder to access the solenoid. When and if I do I'll post a thread about it. Let us know what you find out.

 

Pat,

Thanks for the input. The only thing I can say with regards to that is that my ebpv was working perfectly fine a few months ago, which was the last time it was cold enough for it to be commanded closed by the pcm. I THINK I NARROWED THE PROBLEM DOWN TO THE SOURCE I WAS USING FOR KEYED POWER UNDER THE DASH.

I found the source by unplugging one of the big plugs underneath the dash, sticking a testlight on all the female sides until I found one that only had power when the key was on. I found one and wrote down the color coded wire and that was that. Well, what I am finding out now with a multimeter and a wire spliced into the one I found before is that once I re-attach that big plug under the dash, I no longer get a full 12v off of that wire - more like 5v. Also, the power coming from that wire once it is plugged in does seem to not turn off immediately when I turn the truck off. I hope this isn't totally confusing y'all.

So, I am think I am back at finding a good keyed power source under the dash, so if anyone has any suggestions please please please let me know.

Thanks,
Bob

 

Sounds like Jim's (megawatt) expertise is needed.

 

Guys, I got it figured out. I never could find any "keyed" power, so instead I used "switched" power. The previous owner of my truck was in construction and had a set of strobe lights installed. When he got rid of the truck he took out the strobe lights themselves, but left all the wiring and switches. For year they have just been sitting there unused. Lucky me, they have power running straight to them, so I just cut the wire and spliced it into my switch. It's a little difficult to explain, but it actually works out better, because this particular switch is right next to my TC lockup switch, and it is a lighted switch, which none of the others are. So I now I have a lighted "ARM" switch, if you will (sorry, I'm an apache helicopter pilot). The lighted switch has nothing to do with the TC, but I have to turn it on in order to close the valve on the EBPV. Without the lighted switch on, when I flip EBPV switch, it takes all control away from the PCM, but does not close the valve. I have, in essence, completed the same thing that Dan (Kwikkordead) and many others did, only with two switches instead of one. Personally, I like the fact that I have control over whether there is 12V power being sent to the switch. I don't have to worry about power being applied when I don't want to.

In the end, I just want to thank all those who helped me get this thing done. I am completely ignorant when it comes to electrical work and wiring on vehicles. But, everytime I accomplish something like this it gives me a little more confidence.

Thanks a lot guys,
Bob

 

Congrats on the install, glad it is working for you. Did you disconnect the ground back to the pcm and find another location? Let us know how you like it when you get a load behind it.

 

You Rang


Under the removable panel for the fuse box there is a small square plug that has IIRC 4 wires in it. There is a red wire with a yellow tracer. That one is a 12V switched powersource. It should take care of what you need.

 

I'm not sure I understand what you're asking about the ground back to the PCM. If you use the writeup Dan (Kwikkordead) did a few years ago, that is how I wired it up. Where I ran into a problem was the original wire that I THOUGHT was keyed power, ended up not working - it wouldn't provide a constant 12V. Of course, I didn't realize there was a problem until I had it all wired up and the switch didn't do anything. That was when I really had to start troubleshooting to find out where I had messed up. Once I realized the source of the problem, it was just a matter of finding another power source, which was difficult at first, but it ended up being right under my nose the whole time (see post above).

Anyhow, I will definitely give it a review once I get a load behind it. I wonder if I will be able to notice any braking at all without a load? I may give it a try and see what happens.

Thanks everyone for all the help.

 

Glad you got it fixed. Good job.

 

Thanks to Bob, I now have an exhaust brake. I've been puting it off long enough and this thread gave me something to do today. Cost me $10 for 5' of wire loom switch and spade terminals.

Just got back from the test drive and am surprised at how well it slowed the truck unloaded. This will deffinately slow the 5ver down. Thanks Bob for the reminder to get this done.

 

Square or round? Sounds like you are talking about the AIC plug.