Stalls when starting out
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 91
Likes: 30
From: Vancouver, Washington
Stalls when starting out
Hey all,
I have a 94 Bronco with a 351 and E4OD pretty much all stock with 139K miles. After start up, when I put it in gear (any gear forward or reverse), and after about 20 - 30 feet of driving, the engine stalls. If I keep my foot on the gas, it will pull through and not completely die, but pretty close. It will do this once and then drive fine. However, once I shut down and restart it, it will do it again. But again, it will do it once and then drive fine. If I leave it in park or neutral after start up, it won't have any problems idling or reving up, but it will stall/die once I start moving. I checked codes, both KOEO and KOER, and have none (which was surprising, at least to me). I'm guessing it has something to do with the transmission since it only does it when driving and not idling.
It just started this today. Unfortunately, I'm 300 miles from home on vacation with my family and I'm leaving tomorrow afternoon for home. I'm just worried this will progress and leave me stranded in the middle of nowhere. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Kyle
I have a 94 Bronco with a 351 and E4OD pretty much all stock with 139K miles. After start up, when I put it in gear (any gear forward or reverse), and after about 20 - 30 feet of driving, the engine stalls. If I keep my foot on the gas, it will pull through and not completely die, but pretty close. It will do this once and then drive fine. However, once I shut down and restart it, it will do it again. But again, it will do it once and then drive fine. If I leave it in park or neutral after start up, it won't have any problems idling or reving up, but it will stall/die once I start moving. I checked codes, both KOEO and KOER, and have none (which was surprising, at least to me). I'm guessing it has something to do with the transmission since it only does it when driving and not idling.
It just started this today. Unfortunately, I'm 300 miles from home on vacation with my family and I'm leaving tomorrow afternoon for home. I'm just worried this will progress and leave me stranded in the middle of nowhere. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Kyle
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 0
From: Longview, TX
Does it do it when fully warmed up also? Is there any code in CM, continuous memory? It will give history.
Pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator. There should not be fuel in it.
Is your radiator full for the ECT to report correctly to the computer?
Several sensors could be getting old causing fuel mixture to be off but not bad enough to throw a code. If you have not replaced the oxygen sensor, it is overdue. 60-90K miles is suggested. I would throw one at it. If that is not it, you can use it later. The computer has a limp home mode just for your scenario so I would come home then work on it. Clean the IAB (I replaced mine) and meter the TPS with analog meter (I just replaced it, and broke off a screw so do it at home), replace the oxygen sensor then. Test resistance at many temperatures in your oven on the ECT and the ACT. See ford fuel injection site. .
Come on home and continue to enjoy your vacation.
Pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator. There should not be fuel in it.
Is your radiator full for the ECT to report correctly to the computer?
Several sensors could be getting old causing fuel mixture to be off but not bad enough to throw a code. If you have not replaced the oxygen sensor, it is overdue. 60-90K miles is suggested. I would throw one at it. If that is not it, you can use it later. The computer has a limp home mode just for your scenario so I would come home then work on it. Clean the IAB (I replaced mine) and meter the TPS with analog meter (I just replaced it, and broke off a screw so do it at home), replace the oxygen sensor then. Test resistance at many temperatures in your oven on the ECT and the ACT. See ford fuel injection site. .
Come on home and continue to enjoy your vacation.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 91
Likes: 30
From: Vancouver, Washington
Hi,
I'll do my best to answer your questions. They are in red below. Thanks for your help!
Any other ideas are appreciated as well.
Thanks again!
I'll do my best to answer your questions. They are in red below. Thanks for your help!
Any other ideas are appreciated as well.
Thanks again!
Does it do it when fully warmed up also? Yes. Is there any code in CM, continuous memory? No CM codes. It will give history.
Pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator. There should not be fuel in it. No, there is no fuel in it.
Is your radiator full for the ECT to report correctly to the computer? Yes, coolant is topped off.
Several sensors could be getting old causing fuel mixture to be off but not bad enough to throw a code. If you have not replaced the oxygen sensor, it is overdue. 60-90K miles is suggested. O2 sensor is new within last 3000 miles. I would throw one at it. If that is not it, you can use it later. The computer has a limp home mode just for your scenario so I would come home then work on it. Clean the IAB (I replaced mine) and meter the TPS with analog meter (I just replaced it, and broke off a screw so do it at home), replace the oxygen sensor then. Test resistance at many temperatures in your oven on the ECT and the ACT. See ford fuel injection site. . I'll check these when I get home.
Come on home and continue to enjoy your vacation.
Pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator. There should not be fuel in it. No, there is no fuel in it.
Is your radiator full for the ECT to report correctly to the computer? Yes, coolant is topped off.
Several sensors could be getting old causing fuel mixture to be off but not bad enough to throw a code. If you have not replaced the oxygen sensor, it is overdue. 60-90K miles is suggested. O2 sensor is new within last 3000 miles. I would throw one at it. If that is not it, you can use it later. The computer has a limp home mode just for your scenario so I would come home then work on it. Clean the IAB (I replaced mine) and meter the TPS with analog meter (I just replaced it, and broke off a screw so do it at home), replace the oxygen sensor then. Test resistance at many temperatures in your oven on the ECT and the ACT. See ford fuel injection site. . I'll check these when I get home.
Come on home and continue to enjoy your vacation.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 91
Likes: 30
From: Vancouver, Washington
So, I'm still stumped as to why it does it only once after every start up. And only after driving a little ways. I've let it idle for several minutes after start up and it still stalls/dies once I start driving. It idles and revs up fine until I start driving. But it does it only once and then it is fine until I turn it off.
It started all of a sudden yesterday. I was driving around and making different stops and it was running fine. Then, the next trip it died when I started driving. It has done it on every start up since.
I'm just trying to give as much info as possible, because I'm pretty well stumped. I was really hoping for some codes to point me in the right direction. But that was a no go.
Again, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
It started all of a sudden yesterday. I was driving around and making different stops and it was running fine. Then, the next trip it died when I started driving. It has done it on every start up since.
I'm just trying to give as much info as possible, because I'm pretty well stumped. I was really hoping for some codes to point me in the right direction. But that was a no go.
Again, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 91
Likes: 30
From: Vancouver, Washington
adding to the fun
I made it home! 
However, I noticed an "addition" to my problems. I was driving down the highway at 60 and started getting into the late afternoon shadows. I reached down and turned on my headlights. When I pulled my headlight switch, the engine died. 
I turned the headlights off and the engine fired right back up. I tried this a couple of times with the same result. If I pull the headlight switch while driving, the engine dies. I still have the stall/die issue when starting out, but now this as well.
Any ideas? I'm stumped.
Thanks!
However, I noticed an "addition" to my problems. I was driving down the highway at 60 and started getting into the late afternoon shadows. I reached down and turned on my headlights. When I pulled my headlight switch, the engine died. I turned the headlights off and the engine fired right back up. I tried this a couple of times with the same result. If I pull the headlight switch while driving, the engine dies. I still have the stall/die issue when starting out, but now this as well. Any ideas? I'm stumped.
Thanks!
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 973
Likes: 0
From: Gatineau, Quebec
Sounds like you got a gremlin!!!
Actually sounds like a charging issue, but can't be sure.
Time will tell I guess.
Certainly do as recommended and test battery and charging system.
Not sure this is related to your original issue though.
I hope it all works our for you....Keep us in the loop.
Actually sounds like a charging issue, but can't be sure.
Time will tell I guess.
Certainly do as recommended and test battery and charging system.
Not sure this is related to your original issue though.
I hope it all works our for you....Keep us in the loop.
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 91
Likes: 30
From: Vancouver, Washington
Well, I seem to have fixed the issue. After I realized that turning on the headlights cut out the fuel pump, I started chasing electrical problems. I'm still not sure what fixed it. However, I cleaned all my grounds even though they were not dirty or corroded and made sure they were tight. I know grounding issues can cause lots of problems so I thought I would start there. In doing that, I had the battery disconnected for awhile. When everything was hooked back up, it ran fine.
So, my two theories are:
1) It was a bad ground. Like I said though, none of them looked bad or corroded. Who knows?
2) A glitch in the computer? I don't even know if that can happen, but after "rebooting" it runs fine. Anyone know if that can be a problem? Most of my experience working on cars are the carburated kind. Like I said, this started in the middle of "running errands". It ran fine for probably 8 startups earlier in the day, and then "bam!" I was having problems.
Weird.
On the bright side, everything is running great again. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
So, my two theories are:
1) It was a bad ground. Like I said though, none of them looked bad or corroded. Who knows?
2) A glitch in the computer? I don't even know if that can happen, but after "rebooting" it runs fine. Anyone know if that can be a problem? Most of my experience working on cars are the carburated kind. Like I said, this started in the middle of "running errands". It ran fine for probably 8 startups earlier in the day, and then "bam!" I was having problems.
Weird.
On the bright side, everything is running great again. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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Likes: 1
From: St Louis
I guess my question is, you didnt even get the 11 or 111 code? You should at least get the 11 or 111 code. There have been several posts about grounding issues in 87 to 97 trucks cause other problems. Maybe you got lucky and cleared the problem up.
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