1963 brake converion
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1963 brake converion
With help form this forum i have been able to bleed and replace the fluid, but I am beginning to think that the best thing to do is replace the brakes with new disk brakes.
The problem is that i cant find a kit to replace them.1956 is the closest year i can find. (this wont work will it?) How do i go after replacing them?
I found a rebuild kit for the existing brakes. Its about $175.
Whats better? a rebuild or new disk brakes? my guess is the disk brakes, but they are going to be more than 2x as much, if i can find them.
I am obviously inexperienced and in need of help, which i have gotten a lot of from here and i am grateful for that.
The problem is that i cant find a kit to replace them.1956 is the closest year i can find. (this wont work will it?) How do i go after replacing them?
I found a rebuild kit for the existing brakes. Its about $175.
Whats better? a rebuild or new disk brakes? my guess is the disk brakes, but they are going to be more than 2x as much, if i can find them.
I am obviously inexperienced and in need of help, which i have gotten a lot of from here and i am grateful for that.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 998
Likes: 2
From: Benton, AR
Ask and ye shall receive!
Classic Car and Truck Brake, Steering and Suspension Parts
Heres the price sheet. Looks like its for 57-64 models.
http://www.classicperform.com/4856fordtrk.htm
Heres an article that shows an install.
Installation of Manual or Power Brakes Disc Brakes in a 1957 - 1964 F100 .: Articles
Classic Car and Truck Brake, Steering and Suspension Parts
Heres the price sheet. Looks like its for 57-64 models.
http://www.classicperform.com/4856fordtrk.htm
Heres an article that shows an install.
Installation of Manual or Power Brakes Disc Brakes in a 1957 - 1964 F100 .: Articles
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Monroe, Louisiana
I personally wouldn't spend the money on a new drum brake setup for the front wheels.There are several companies which sell disc brake kits for the straight axle slicks. I bought mine from CPP (Classic Performance Parts). Here's a link to their site: Classic Ford Truck Parts-1948-1964 Parts. The Finest in Suspension, Brakes, Steering and Accessories. you just have to scroll down through all the stuff until you get to the "Complete Disc Brake Kits". which includes the power booster and master cylinder. and retails for $699. The kit without the power booster and M/C is priced at $375. CPP recently was running a special on E-bay for $349 which included shipping.(Haven't checked recently, but that was a great deal.) ECI also makes a kit which many have used.
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thanks for the link, but that's a little pricey. i was hopping for something in the $450 range. I guess if that's all there is then i may buy it though.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 998
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From: Benton, AR
Check out my gallery. I replaced almost all the brake parts on my 64 I used to own. I would pay the $699 and enjoy power brakes. Its only money you can make more. Work at autozone on the weekends until you get your truck done then quit.
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From: Monroe, Louisiana
If your budget is $450. Buy the kit without the booster/MC and then salvage a booster/MC from a junk yard. Or, just go with a dual MC w/o power brakes. Or just buy the bracket and buy all the parts individually (list of needed parts are available on this site as well as others). IMHO, if you spend money on rebuilding the front drums, you will still have inadequate drum brakes. I've done it I know. Now I'm going with the discs.
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I was working on the brake some more today and the front right drum wont come off. All the other wheels popped right off with no problem, but this on is stuck. I looked at it closely and it looks like it is held on by a, well, i dont know what to call it. The lug bolts are different than all the others because even after you take the tires off they hold the drum on and it is impossible to remove. it looks like you need a special tool to remove it.
the best way to describe it is it looks like a thin washer that has 4 notches in it every 90 degrees. the only thing i can think of is that its like that for some reason because its 4x4 and has something to do with the manual locking mechanism, but like i said, the other front wheel pops right off.
the other thing is that when i have someone press the brakes, they expand like they are supposed to, then go back down even though the pedal is all the way down.
Ive decided on a rebuild kit due to price. this truck isn't going to really see much use on the highway anyway, just around out in the country occasionally.
the best way to describe it is it looks like a thin washer that has 4 notches in it every 90 degrees. the only thing i can think of is that its like that for some reason because its 4x4 and has something to do with the manual locking mechanism, but like i said, the other front wheel pops right off.
the other thing is that when i have someone press the brakes, they expand like they are supposed to, then go back down even though the pedal is all the way down.
Ive decided on a rebuild kit due to price. this truck isn't going to really see much use on the highway anyway, just around out in the country occasionally.
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From: Glendale Arizona
I was working on the brake some more today and the front right drum wont come off. All the other wheels popped right off with no problem, but this on is stuck. I looked at it closely and it looks like it is held on by a, well, i dont know what to call it. The lug bolts are different than all the others because even after you take the tires off they hold the drum on and it is impossible to remove. it looks like you need a special tool to remove it.
the best way to describe it is it looks like a thin washer that has 4 notches in it every 90 degrees. the only thing i can think of is that its like that for some reason because its 4x4 and has something to do with the manual locking mechanism, but like i said, the other front wheel pops right off.
the other thing is that when i have someone press the brakes, they expand like they are supposed to, then go back down even though the pedal is all the way down.
Ive decided on a rebuild kit due to price. this truck isn't going to really see much use on the highway anyway, just around out in the country occasionally.
the best way to describe it is it looks like a thin washer that has 4 notches in it every 90 degrees. the only thing i can think of is that its like that for some reason because its 4x4 and has something to do with the manual locking mechanism, but like i said, the other front wheel pops right off.
the other thing is that when i have someone press the brakes, they expand like they are supposed to, then go back down even though the pedal is all the way down.
Ive decided on a rebuild kit due to price. this truck isn't going to really see much use on the highway anyway, just around out in the country occasionally.
Here is a disc brake kit maker for closed knuckle Dana 44s
http://www.blackbirdscustomtrucks.co....html#balldisc
The washers need to be split and removed.
Garbz
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From: Monroe, Louisiana
Did the OP mention that it was a 4X4? If so I missed it. Sorry about the wrong advice.
Dave: Do you know of anyone who makes a disc brake setup for the 8 lug fronts (non-4X4) like's on my F250?
Dave: Do you know of anyone who makes a disc brake setup for the 8 lug fronts (non-4X4) like's on my F250?
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I got it off. took me about an hour with a rotary tool, i also have to replace 4 of the 5 lug bolts (i got carried away with a hammer, i also broke the hammer by the way). I'm buying new lines and hoses and wheel cylinder rebuild kit. then I'll go from there.
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