i have a friend that is wanting to make his bronco stop better so i took on the task of trying to find out some info for him. can anyone tell me of a donner for disk brakes or do you have to by new kits to get the disk conversion? if you have to buy a kit what is the best and most complete kit that you can get? please help thanks.

 

There are two popular front disc brake swaps for the Bronco, Ford and GM/ Ford. It depends on whether the 71 has a 30 or a 44 front end on what will work.

Ford: Will only fit the Dana 44. Uses 76-79 F150 4wd, 76-77 Bronco knuckles and spindles, 76-90's Ford hub and rotors, and 76-79 Ford calipers. There are some modifications needed for the steering linkage depending on what way you go. The pickup knuckles use tapered inserts to adapt the Bronco tie rod to the larger F150 holes. And the 76-77 Bronco knuckles have a different offset where the tie rods mount and a 2 way adjustable tie rod is needed.

GM/ Ford: Will fit the Dana 30 and 44. Uses 71-76 Chev/ GMC (and some mid 70s Wagoneer and full size pickup) spindles and caliper mounts, 76-90's Ford hub and rotor, Chev calipers.

Both setups have their pros and cons. All of the Bronco suppliers offer a form of these kits, A lot of the parts needed are available new or from a wrecking yard if you want to build your own kit.

If you want info on rear disc swaps, let me know

HTH,
Jason

 

The Dana 30 hubs are basically the same as the 44 hubs, just bolt on backing plates and calipers from a chevy pickup, and get rotors of a ford 44 mount them on the outside of the hub. fI think you have to turn the centers of the rotor to make them fit the hub.

 

Ebay had a kit that wil fit either the d30 or 44, it is a GM style kit, but includes everything you need for about 350 bucks. do a search of "early bronco disc" and you wil find it
Rich

 

I am adding discs to my D44 and I am going with the che*y conversion. It's the easiest swap. I think I'll probably spend less than $150 buying used spindles and backing plates and new rotors, loaded calipers, hoses, seals.... I am wondering where I get the little nut that holds the hose in place??

Plenty of write ups online.

 

Jesusman,
Are you talking about the banjo bolt that attaches the hose to the caliper?
You can get them from any parts store. You should take a caliper as a sample because there are both SAE and metric versions.

Jason

 

Nah, I think it has something to do with attaching the hose here:

 

So yours has threads instead of the slot for the clip. I used a 5/8- NC nut on mine.

Jason

 

RC, that's not my setup, but one from a tech article. One other part that I am curious about is the washer and bolt that tread into the end of the stub shaft to make up the difference in length of the spindles. Where do I get that and is the stub shaft already threaded? I better plan a full day and lots of gas to run to the parts store!!

J.D.

EDIT: article from classic broncos:

Because of the longer hub/rotor assembly you won't be able to re-install the factory snap ring on the end of the spindle. Instead use a bolt and flat fender washer to keep the locking hub body in place. There is a threaded hole at the end of the axle for this bolt.

 

If my memory serves me, I remember the bolt being a 3/8"- 1" NF
When I did my swap several years ago, I had one axle that was threaded and one that wasn't. I had no problem with not having the bolt in the non threaded side. Ran that way until I started breaking a lot of OE axles and then I "lost" the bolt in the other side. The snap ring or bolt and washer keep the axle from moving back into the housing and keeps the axle splines engaged in the hub. When I upgraded to aftermarket shafts, they were a little longer and had the snap ring groove in the right spot.

I have done several Chevy disc conversions and haven't had a problem.

Jason

 

It's good to know thw bolt isn't crutial! Thanks! Someday I'll go to the moser or warn axle shafts.

 

Also, you don't need the knuckles off the half-ton donor. Just the spindle, rotor/hub assembly, calipers/pads, and hoses.
You know, I was wondering about that too. I noticed one time that I could pull the lockout about a quarter-inch from the hub. And now I know why...guess I oughta tear it down, install the bolt, and clean everything up in there, huh?

 

Actually, off the che*y, all you need is the spindle and caliper mount. You can get used Ford hub/rotor, but I think I'll but new and well as loaded che*y calipers.

J.D.

 

I am in the middle of the disc brake swap on my 1970. I was told the swap was easy, using a 1978 bronco/F-150 axle. I was informed to just swap out the knuckle at the ball joint connection and use everything outside of that from the 1978 axle. Is this NOT correct?? Any info would help..

TK

 

You will need the adapters for the tierod ends.(JBG has these)
Can't remember if you can use the same outer axle shaft from the EB or if this needs to be changed also. The outers on the F150 axle will be a larger U joint than the EB.