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Let’s start a survey on the type of brake pads everyone is using and the pro’s and con’s about them. (i.e.: Semi-metallic, carbon metallic, ceramic etc.) I am currently running Performance Friction Carbon Metallic all around and I really do not like the fading I feel during a panic stop. I feel the stopping distance is too great and the excessive foot pressure I have to apply concerns me.
I always get the cheapest ones I can find and they stop the best because the are not putting all those anti wear ingredients in them that just hamper them. They are not that hard to replace a few miles sooner if you still have the truck. Just my 18 cents (inflation).
Have only had the Hawkes on for a month or so but thus far am not blown away by them. They stop the truck fine but for the extra $, might go back to generics next time to compare.
I am using Hawk (not the hotter one). They are decent, but they take a little heat to get them working correctly.
It's not the pads so much that fades as it is the brake fluid that boils. Brake fluid absorbs water over time which lowers it's boiling temperature. As the brake fluid boils, the steam in the line doesn't transmit press as well as the liquid and compresses. Changing your break fluid should help immensely in your brake fade.
I just replaced my front 2 calipers and completely flushed the brake fluid from all 4 wheels. I then performed the bedding procedure as called out at the ART rotor website and I still have the fade in the brakes. I am just trying to find out what pads seem to work best by asking for responses to this survey.
It just seemed odd to me that PF pads would be causing the fade. Perhaps if your driving that hard, you may want to look into their Z-rate line which like Hawks hot line require more heat to get to operating temperature, but once they do, they work well and to rather extreme temps. If you go that route, DOT3 is probably not a good choice, there are few DOT3 that are good for the superduty/excursion line (Ford's HD being the top and PF's Z-fluid being second in boiling temps.)
Wagner ThermoQuiet Pads (semi-metallic), r1concepts slotted rotors. I have ABS, but if I didn't, I feel like I could lock up the brakes now. Just resting your foot on the pedal will quickly stop the vehicle. I previously had Bendix rotors, and PF Carbon Metallics. Felt good at first, but pads and rotors quickly wore out, causing weird glazing and quarter-sized craters where the glazing wasn't present.
It just seemed odd to me that PF pads would be causing the fade. Perhaps if your driving that hard, you may want to look into their Z-rate line which like Hawks hot line require more heat to get to operating temperature, but once they do, they work well and to rather extreme temps. If you go that route, DOT3 is probably not a good choice, there are few DOT3 that are good for the superduty/excursion line (Ford's HD being the top and PF's Z-fluid being second in boiling temps.)
I have the Hawk SuperDuty pads on both my Excursion and my 2000 Dodge Durango.
While in theory, they require more heat to work well, in reality that just isn't that case.
I get full stopping power on even the first pedal press. I notice no difference in stopping power from pedal press number one to pedal press number 5, 6, 7, etc. This is both loaded down while towing a trailer or just empty driving around town. It is also during summer or winter. (Only had them on the Durango thru winter.) They do show consistant stopping power even while towing very heavy loads. (15,000 - 17,000 # trailers.)
I just replaced all 4 calipers on the Excursion and pads and rotors on the front. I'm probably going to go ahead and switch the rear pads to the Hawk SuperDuty pads also as soon as I find an extra $80.
The Hawk SuperDuty pads are very aggresive and have an above average amount of brake dust. I don't really care about the dust as I don't get to wash my truck often and the rest of the vehicle just looks as bad as the wheels. lol
I have ceramic pads on my front, oem on the rear, I replaced the front rotors last year, 10,000 miles ago, with napa premium rotors. Getting the vibes back, although slightly, but still coming back. I am going to have the rotors turned and try a new set of pads. What I dont know yet. Maybe this thread will help my decision.
I use Ford Genuines. This is my second Ex. I bought both new, one in 2000 and one in 2003. I get about 60K out of these. When I change them, I fork out the bucks and replace pads and rotors.
Hawk LTS pads all around with new rotors. Less than 9k miles on them, and Im seriously considering changing out everything again. I shouldnt be having pulsing/vibrating already... next time I will look around for a better quality rotor to match up with the Hawk pads.
Looking to replace my pads, so this is great timing.
How much brake fluid capacity does an Excursion have in its system. I've used Castrol SRF for my racing bikes, but it's a bit pricey to be using so much. Great wet boiling point.
Sounds like potentially a generic pad is very, very reasonable? I would almost suspect that the weak stock springs get overwhelmed and can't really support the braking force of a better pad and rotor combintation.
I used 5qts I think when I did my flush, but I flushed a qt of clean fluid through it (I had the green fluid issue to clear up.)
I guess it's really how you use the brakes that will make the call on which kind to get. I very, very rarely brake hard, I hate having the front end dive. So the LTS hawks need a little warming to preform well like this, but they do a decent job.
I would almost suspect that the weak stock springs get overwhelmed and can't really support the braking force of a better pad and rotor combintation.
I have finally got a brake setup that I am happy with. After replacing the front pads and rotors I got large amounts of smoke while towing about 7,000 lbs only a day or two after the swap. I went ahead and swapped out that caliper. Found a "loaded" caliper from Ryan Automotive (Motorcraft supplier) for only $86. That seemed to solve that problem. I still had brakes that pulled to the right and just didn't seem to stop like they should.
About a week ago, I upped my towing weight with my new 24' trailer and had the smoke issue with the front left and rear left.
I went ahead and replaced all 3 of the other calipers, including the caliper mounts and slide pins.
The pull to the right is still slightly there but is barely noticable. BUT, the braking is now where I think it should be. I've actually put the vehicle into ABS lock up a few times on dry, smooth pavement. I've never been able to do that before.
I think that with 160k miles, the calipers had just about had it and just weren't up to the task anymore.
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