Aftermarket stereo installation
My goal is to utilize the OEM speakers for now and eventually replace with different speakers along with separate subs in the rear doors. For now I mainly want the nicer headunit along with having the integrated XM capability and Ipod connectivity. So - fairly simple for now but will be upgraded along the way.
Question 1:
It has the factory DVD - I know there is a harness which provides RCA plugs for the system - but after searching quite a bit haven't found anyone who is actually using it. It appears to be audio only - along with 2 extra wires which most likely are the turn on (ASYSON) and the ground or drain wire. Link:
METRA 70-5520AV plugs into existing car wire harness to install a new car stereo 2002-2004 FORD FACTORY DVD RETENTION HARNESS;
Looking at the wiring diagram it does not appear to have a video input unless you use the original RCA video/audio inputs - is that correct?
Question 2:
For the steering wheel controls and the rear controls - has anyone use the PAC SWIX control? It plugs into the harness at the wheel and then you program it to send an IR signal to the new headunit. Seems like a cool item - question would be if it would work for the rear controls as well or has anyone come up with a solution for that? One option may be to run wires from the rear controls to the PAC unit and combine the steering wheel and rear control wires and use a single PAC unit. Ideas on this one? Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future
Question 3:
I know the double din fits with a bit of trimming - does anyone have an install kit they recommend?
Thanks for any input and/or advice you all can provide.

Behind the cover, the opening is fairly large and required no modifications.

Now for the wiring..... I used a wiring harness so no wires would get cut. Easy enough job when you can do it right at the workbench.

I installed my backup camera at the same time. I purchased one from Sheriff but didn't use it since I am able to hardwire the camera right into the headunit. I plan to use the 7" monitor from the wireless kit as an additional monitor for Xbox. I liked the install DJ (Soutthpaw) did and so I used the same location. My camera is a bit smaller and does not to appear to have as wide of a viewing angle as the wireless but I really only want it for hooking up the boat. Cutting the hole in that nice shiny black plastic was pretty easy - I used painters tape to mask off around it to avoid scratches and used a 7/8" hole saw. I then used a Dremel to finish shaping the hole and making sure the angle was correct.

I then removed the entire panel - 6 bolts and the key and handle rods and it came right out. I epoxied the camera in place and let it dry. I then turned it around so I could seal the hole around the camera itself. I have a bit more finishing to do to ensure it is perfectly smooth and shiny black like the rest of the panel.

I tapped into the reverse light lead - the harness is under the truck and easily accessible - especially if you take off the black trim panel at the bottom of the door opening. I ran the 12v input and RCA cables up to the headunit and finished wiring the camera. The hardest part was getting the wires up through the headliner and into the hatch.
It's basically done. Everything works - XM, camera, aux input for the ipod. I plan to add an amp and subs to the rear doors this fall but that can wait.

I think it came out pretty nice. My next project is to get the factory DVD to power up and function. I've done quite a bit of searching and the DVD Keeper appears to be the best way - but I may try a homemade solution. I'll post my findings back here as it seems to be a common question without a lot of answers.
I have a bit of a rattle and think it is the tab and bracket which keeps the door from opening too far. Can't hear it from the inside but it's noticeable from the outside. I'm currently using some grills which I got on eBay and painted to somewhat blend in. I think it looks good for now - my son was trying to talk me into the new 'spinner' ones... I think I'll pass on those. The amp is mounted under the passenger side rear captains seat - fits perfectly and gives good airflow on the bottom and top.
Next up is too actually complete the video portion - need my headrest monitors with headphone outputs so I don't have to listen to the kid's movies.

I didnt know what to say.
I went with new headrst monitors and had the installer play with the new radio so I am able to watch the front as well.
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I didnt know what to say.
I went with new headrst monitors and had the installer play with the new radio so I am able to watch the front as well.
I am going to order my headrest monitors tomorrow and will be able to finish my install. At least this phase! There is always new toys to add to the mix! My son wants his xbox to work so that will be done at some point - anything to keep them occupied and to not ask 'are we there yet....?" AGAIN...
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
1. I mounted the bracket to the third light lens first. (I think I screwed it in).
2 I then placed the lense back on and tightened it down.
3. I then placed the camera on the bracket and tightened it. This making it impossible for the bracket to come off.
4. I ran the wires through the top of the hatchdoor down and around the spare tire and along the side underneath the moldings.
Mine hooked up right to the radio.
Easy.
If you are going to mount the GPS/monitor near the top of the windshield I would do the following: Instead of running the wires over to the center console where the radio is - pull the rubber weatherstripping at the front of the driver's door down and off the truck. This will give you access to be able to run wires up the pillar and then pull through so you can tuck them into the front of the headliner. Then feed them over to the where the center console is - leave a bit of slack so you can position the display where you would like it. Suggestion would be to wrap electrical tape around the exposed wires where they come out of the headliner and will go down to your display.
After working up the courage.... the first cut was the hardest thing to do to a perfectly good seat!

With the edges tucked in so the seat frame and foam is visible:

Ran the wire for each inside the seat - extremely easy to do with these seats.

Wire run and mounting bracket installed - I drilled 4 holes and installed screws which came with the screens.

Monitor snapped into place and I just repeated the process for the other seat.

I removed the rear seat controls since they no longer control anything. The module still needs to be plugged in since the rear speakers are tied to it and will stop working if left out. I mounted the board to the inside of the console out of the way. I plan to mount a power inverter inside the console at some point to provide AC outlets for laptops, the xbox, etc - the outlets and switch will be mounted in the old rear seat control opening.

I ran the wires from the monitors inside the seat to an existing hole in the carpet - then ran from there to the opening under the console.

Console back in place and wires in the compartment under the rear cupholders. This is a great location as it gives you easy access to connections. There is a lot of room here - I also installed a video amplifier and splitter to drive the screens.

I installed a DVD player in the factory location - minor trimming required and it fits great.

Everything is done!

It is currently setup so if a DVD is played from the front head unit it will play on the front and rear screens and the audio will play out of the speakers. If a DVD is played from the rear player - it plays only on the rear screens and headphones are required. I'm using Video 1 on the screens for the DVD, Video 2 will be for an AUX input I'm making for the rear console - most likely used for the xbox. The monitors automatically power up when they sense a signal and each monitor can be switched separately - so one can be on DVD and the other could be on AV2 or 3 to play xbox or something else.
These are the ones that I went with. Not trying to steal any glory. That first cut is the most painful. I bet the rest just went fine.



