fuel heater fix directions!!!!! w/pics
#61
09-23-2013, 10:17 AM
Hey guys,
I've been leaking fuel through the fuel heater since winter, finally got around to fixing it. It definitely helps to cause air-intrusion when leaking.
Anyway, as many guys as bought the o-rings from NAPA, nobody put down a part number...
Larger O-ring= NAPA AUTO PARTS
Smaller O-ring= NAPA AUTO PARTS
Keep in mind that the pictures are representative images, and look NOTHING like the o-rings you'll get.
(And in order to get these links, I had to go to the dumb NAPA, measure the o-rings with a caliper, and then buy them with the part numbers on the drawers they are in. SO STUPID! You can't search napaonline.com for o-rings! I hate their site, it's one of the worst business sites I've ever been to.)
As for Orielly's, they can't even order them into the stores. They have them online, sure, but it'll cost you $10 TO SHIP 2 O-RINGS.
Anywho, these fit great and I'm now 2 days leak-free. Truck starts better too.
Oh and pay attention to the part where you separate the male contact lead from the plastic housing(picture #5 from RupeJosh). I didn't realize there was a barb on it, and ended up breaking that lead. Which is brass so I couldn't solder it... if anyone has one of those in working order I need one! Thanks!
-Joshua
I've been leaking fuel through the fuel heater since winter, finally got around to fixing it. It definitely helps to cause air-intrusion when leaking.
Anyway, as many guys as bought the o-rings from NAPA, nobody put down a part number...
Larger O-ring= NAPA AUTO PARTS
Smaller O-ring= NAPA AUTO PARTS
Keep in mind that the pictures are representative images, and look NOTHING like the o-rings you'll get.
(And in order to get these links, I had to go to the dumb NAPA, measure the o-rings with a caliper, and then buy them with the part numbers on the drawers they are in. SO STUPID! You can't search napaonline.com for o-rings! I hate their site, it's one of the worst business sites I've ever been to.)
As for Orielly's, they can't even order them into the stores. They have them online, sure, but it'll cost you $10 TO SHIP 2 O-RINGS.
Anywho, these fit great and I'm now 2 days leak-free. Truck starts better too.
Oh and pay attention to the part where you separate the male contact lead from the plastic housing(picture #5 from RupeJosh). I didn't realize there was a barb on it, and ended up breaking that lead. Which is brass so I couldn't solder it... if anyone has one of those in working order I need one! Thanks!
-Joshua
For my 1990 will I have the single o-ring or 2 o rings?
Thanks!
#62
09-30-2013, 08:16 AM
#63
12-04-2013, 01:15 PM
Post Fiend
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
Posts: 18,724
Likes: 0
Received 37 Likes
on
31 Posts
'93 f-450
the heater elements o-ring was ok once i inspected it as i had figured,but the issue with mine was,that the actual inside of the e-connector was filling up full of fuel and flowing over from there,so the only way to fix that would be with a new heater element or simply plug the hole.at the cost of those oem heaters,i chose to tap and plug the hole with jb welded threads for a nice permanent leak free fix.
#66
01-23-2014, 02:59 PM
I have a 1990 7.3 in my F250 and it has had this problem. I went to the local farm store for O-rings & they didn't have the Vitons but I was able to size the ones that I needed. My type uses 2 o-rings, not one as some.
<table border="1" width="80%"><tbody><tr><td align="middle">1/2"</td><td align="middle"> 5/8"</td><td align="middle"> 1/16"<td align="middle"></td></tr></tbody></table>014's
<table border="1" width="80%"><tbody><tr><td align="middle">5/8"</td><td align="middle"> 3/4"</td><td align="middle"> 1/16"</td></tr></tbody></table>016's
I emailed these guys & they said that for diesel the best bet is these.They work perfect:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VITON-O-RINGS-014-QTY-50-1-2-ID-X-5-8-OD-/190791956335?hash=item2c6c16376f
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VITON-O-RINGS-016-QTY-50-5-8-ID-X-3-4-OD-/200887936272?hash=item2ec5daa510
You get 50 of each for about $15 total. If those listing are gone, search for sellers: "Penske40"
This is not difficlt or a time consuming job. I did have a little trouble getting the electrical spade to push down through the plastic to get to the inside o-ring. Look straight doun on it & bend the little tab so it is inline with the hole. I suggest you take a magnifying glass & look at the tab BEFORE you start to mess with it. You'll see what you need to do.
Watch that video above about turning the filter assemble upside down & rebolting to remove that center bushing!!! Excellent idea! Keep it stock for a few bucks & a little time. I would go to the Hastings FF1039-SP filters tough & have the Drain Valve & Sensor Port right in the filter. Do away with that bottom plate.
<table border="1" width="80%"><tbody><tr><td align="middle">1/2"</td><td align="middle"> 5/8"</td><td align="middle"> 1/16"<td align="middle"></td></tr></tbody></table>014's
<table border="1" width="80%"><tbody><tr><td align="middle">5/8"</td><td align="middle"> 3/4"</td><td align="middle"> 1/16"</td></tr></tbody></table>016's
I emailed these guys & they said that for diesel the best bet is these.They work perfect:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VITON-O-RINGS-014-QTY-50-1-2-ID-X-5-8-OD-/190791956335?hash=item2c6c16376f
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VITON-O-RINGS-016-QTY-50-5-8-ID-X-3-4-OD-/200887936272?hash=item2ec5daa510
You get 50 of each for about $15 total. If those listing are gone, search for sellers: "Penske40"
This is not difficlt or a time consuming job. I did have a little trouble getting the electrical spade to push down through the plastic to get to the inside o-ring. Look straight doun on it & bend the little tab so it is inline with the hole. I suggest you take a magnifying glass & look at the tab BEFORE you start to mess with it. You'll see what you need to do.
Watch that video above about turning the filter assemble upside down & rebolting to remove that center bushing!!! Excellent idea! Keep it stock for a few bucks & a little time. I would go to the Hastings FF1039-SP filters tough & have the Drain Valve & Sensor Port right in the filter. Do away with that bottom plate.
#69
01-24-2014, 07:58 PM
#70
03-06-2014, 01:39 PM
Junior User
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: watertown sd
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#71
03-06-2014, 09:19 PM
Clueless spectator!
Thanks AKAMACGYVER!!!!
I am trying it as we speak 3 times the charm right great idea for sure... AM in ur debt sir... thanks again arron
I am trying it as we speak 3 times the charm right great idea for sure... AM in ur debt sir... thanks again arron
Mac.
#72
03-07-2014, 01:01 AM
Junior User
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: watertown sd
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
THANKS AGAIN!!!
You are welcome kind sir! I know how you feel. I did my first one in a trailer park in Oregon with no bench vise or large sockets. It was a bear, but after I figured out a few tricks, I can do one in about 30 minutes! I like to keep my trucks as original as possible, so plugging it was a last option for me.
Mac.
Mac.
..lol.
#73
04-01-2014, 01:35 PM
Junior User
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: watertown sd
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I have been so busy here lately have not been able to get on here... but anyway the fuel leak at the filter under the plug we had the pictures of ect ect... well I have got it fixed so far the O ring I put in is working awesome once again thanks to u pros here in the diesel department a little time and $1.50 O ring fixed mney saved... Thanks again from arron
#74
08-29-2014, 06:49 PM
