Still waiting on the Stud Extractor from Princess Auto in Wpg., ordered a week ago yesterday, and they only billed my card yesterday, don't know what's going on there, the clerk had the Stud Extractor in her hand?? Hope it comes in soon.
The EGR Tube was billed to my card by TeamFordParts.com on Tuesday the 30th., could have it by Monday in Northern NY.
Question, have any of you been able to source the large 3/4" Male/ 3/4" female fitting that goes into the manifold that the EGR pipe flanged 3/4" male fitting goes into?
Looks like a standard 3/4" course threaded black steel fitting, but so far have only been able to find a 3/4" male / 1/2" female course threaded fitting. Thanks.

 

The Stud Extractor came in from Princess Auto in WPG yesterday, finally.

The new EGR tube, and the EGR connector 3/4" male x 3/4" female, along with a set of upper and lower radiator hoses will be in on Tuesday from TeamFordParts in Las Vegas,NV on Tuesday next, had some difficulty in finding the tube, lower rad hose etc.
Some of which are no longer available in the Ford parts computor.

Meanwhile, we have a MIL emergency tomorrow at nursing home in northern, NY. So I won't be getting to the F-53 manifold before Monday. Hopefully it won't be raining!!!
More to follow, hopefully I'll luck out like Saskdiesel did with the Stud Extractor on the five remaining studs sticking out of the aluminum head. Wish me luck!

 

I was going to start mine tomorrow but I have to work the week-end and need the truck on Tuesday and I am a little gun shy that I won't have it done. So I will start on it next week.

 

I used two big adjustable wrenches to really tighten it up. Then I turned out the studs.
The first few felt like they were going to snap at any second. But they turned out, and they were in there tight.

 

Are you talking the studs were tight and came out? I have two different stud extractors the one that looks like a drill chuck and the one that looks like a socket. So it might not be that bad.

 

Yup. They were very tight yet they came out.

 

Tip: Once you get them to "crack" loose, put more PB on them and work the stud back and forth a few times. Once they crack loose, there is more space for the PB to penetrate and do its job. The PB really does help break down corrosion and make them easier to back out.

 

Hi,
My name is Rich. And I too must admit that I am powerless at the hands of Ford Engineering. " This thread is like a support group".

Anyways, my truck has been in standown mode for the last few days, as I attempt to correct all that is wrong with my 03 Superduty. Just finished all the necessary drive train replacements, ball joints, front U joints, hub seals,etc..( Can't believe how frozen in place my hubs were. What a huge PITA to get those off) and am now tackling my right side exhaust leak as well. I have the manifold off now, and am left with two studs that were sheared below the head surface, as well as the remaining which need to be pursuaded to unscrew yet. I am replacing manifold with factory new for now. Perhaps later on will upgrade, but now too many other irons in the fire.
My question concerns the replacement studs from Ford. I already purchased the stainless ones, but now am told that their is also a copper coated variety out there from Ford as well. I'm wondering whether its worth getting those, or would a good high quality antiseize perform just as well.
Any thoughts?

 

Well I have into mine today I have over 4 hours into the project and absolutely no bolts or studs or manifolds out. I am starting to try to cut the nuts off. The nuts are so rusted no socket will fit it.

 

Well it is 9:00 pm and all I have off is the y-pipe. I start again in the morning.

 

All right, a few suggestions and a straight way to get these studs out...

The ONLY tool that you really want to use for extraction is a cam type stud remover/extracor. They're fairly cheap and work great. First, remove anything and everything in your way that you can, you need the room ie shock mount, starter, steering shaft (and of course the exaust backwards of the manifold). Second spend a long time with various rotary tools and bits grinding off the heads of all the bolts. That is the extremely hard (but possible) part. dont try anything to remove the bolts before you take off the manifold, you'll only end up with short, hard to work with, broken off in the head studs.
Now you can use your cam type extractor to take out the studs <(these things are truly a godsend, they WILL NOT slip and put MUCH LESS stress on the stud...) Now if one is broken off in the head, fire up your smallest right angle drill and use the highest quality extraction bit you can get. (you can use a propane torch to heat up the head around the stud (do not heat the stud itself)if you like.... If this process fails, God himself must keeping your stud there...

All in all, I think it usually takes so much time and effort to replace these studs becuase people have it in their minds that it should be a simple, straight forward repair, so they dont do nearly enough prepwork and are not prepared for the fight that they're about to run into.... Everyone, go into this knowing that its gonna be difficult and be prepared and it will go much more smoothly... This really is a GOOD weekend job....

 

I am just taking my time getting ready to go back in start on it. I had to go and get the gasket for the flange on the cat convertor. My neighbor who has a f350 7.3 has been over we just say its bad and laugh. What you said is what I am going to do just cut the nuts off the stud and remove the manifolds that way I have a stud to work with I can see one that is broken off I will have to easy out it I will let every one knows how today goes.

 

Good Luck!!

 

Ford can stick it up there a$$. The truck is for sale. I would rather change transmissions in a Dodge than work on this. I have removed the tire the shocks the shock mount cut the inner fender out and still don't have the manifold off yet. let alone the studs. I have used a torch, angle grinders moto tool burr grinders a saw zal and the bolt above the motor mount we can not get. All another thing I removed the starter and a bolt broke off the starter solonoid guess what can't buy a new solonoid have to buy the whole starter.

 

Well, everyone, I'm back at it this morning, I have 5 studs pertruding about a 1/2" outside of the head.

Using the Titan 3/8" Stud Extractor, tightened it up on the first two studs which were earlier chewed up by the vise grips, no go, the extractor just stripped off some more metal on the studs with extractor locked and fully extended. Their not going to come out with this extractor.

Next went after two of the three remaining studs which have their treads fully intact, tighten both up nice and tight, both broke off about 1/4" from the head. So this extractor won't get these out either.

Tried drilling and using a spiral stud extractor, that broke off in the stud. Called it a wrap around 2PM and went to work on the master bath reno, hoping my plumbing/reno skills would give me a better ending to the day. It did!!

84ttb::: What is and where can I find a Cam Type Stud Remover/Extractor??

Might work for me on the remaining 3 studs which still have about a 1/2" or more of stud outside of the head. Note: I have been flooding all of these studs for weeks with PB Blaster, also several times today.

Also, in case any of you are having difficulty in sourcing some of the needed parts, I finally sourced the following:
Left back Manifold gaskets, a 3-port & a 2 port US$ 50.00ttl (Ford NY-US Dealer)
Manifold Flange Studs/nuts: 2 of each US$ 34.00 (Ford NY-US Dealer)
EGR Tube complete: US$ 58.00 (Ford Nevada Dealer)
EGR Lower Connector at Manifold: US$ 39.00 (Ford Nevada Dealer)
Manifold Head Studs/nuts: 10 or each US$ 18.00 (Auto Source USA)