man i dont know.... i bet you a fustrated , i just recently had to put a new distributor in my 77 , its a pain when you fix somethin and it still dont work....
need ignition help (coil problem)
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
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i'm pullin my hair out here. I just put a motor in the truck and i've been at this tiny problem for 3 days. I still aint heard my motor run.
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Jackson,Tn
EXACTLY wat happend to me , just rebuilt my 400..... it took me 2 days to figure out my problem..... but once she cranked i was jumpn up and down lol
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You don't ground the coil! The negative end (TACH) side of the coil is switched. A coil can't fire unless it's switched on and off. On a '79, the coil negative terminal is switched by the Duraspark module.
AND... you don't run 12 volts to the coil at all times. In RUN it is powered through a resistive wire that effectively drops the coil voltage to 7-9 volts. In START this resistive wire is bypassed by full voltage, but during cranking it usually drops to about 9 anyway.
Is your wiring hacked up or something? What's the deal here? Tell me what you've done (or haven't done) and I can step you through wiring your ignition.
AND... you don't run 12 volts to the coil at all times. In RUN it is powered through a resistive wire that effectively drops the coil voltage to 7-9 volts. In START this resistive wire is bypassed by full voltage, but during cranking it usually drops to about 9 anyway.
Is your wiring hacked up or something? What's the deal here? Tell me what you've done (or haven't done) and I can step you through wiring your ignition.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
You don't ground the coil! The negative end (TACH) side of the coil is switched. A coil can't fire unless it's switched on and off. On a '79, the coil negative terminal is switched by the Duraspark module.
AND... you don't run 12 volts to the coil at all times. In RUN it is powered through a resistive wire that effectively drops the coil voltage to 7-9 volts. In START this resistive wire is bypassed by full voltage, but during cranking it usually drops to about 9 anyway.
Is your wiring hacked up or something? What's the deal here? Tell me what you've done (or haven't done) and I can step you through wiring your ignition.
AND... you don't run 12 volts to the coil at all times. In RUN it is powered through a resistive wire that effectively drops the coil voltage to 7-9 volts. In START this resistive wire is bypassed by full voltage, but during cranking it usually drops to about 9 anyway.
Is your wiring hacked up or something? What's the deal here? Tell me what you've done (or haven't done) and I can step you through wiring your ignition.
Regardless, the problem is fixed. I discovered there was a screw missing out of the module in that NEW distributor which was causing it to not get a ground.
