The diagram shows the stock ZF pattern. To get to your R-L gate you have to pull the shifter against a two stage spring. The first spring gets you to the 1-2 gate and the second spring gets you to R-L. Note that home position is the 3-4 gate.

The L-1 shift (stock labeling) is the most important shift. If you are on a hill with a trailer, you need L to get started. To keep momentum you want a quick shift to 1. This doesn't happen because you are fighting the double spring. You CAN make the L-1 shift sometimes, but it's simpler to let it spring back to home, then come back across to 1. This is extremely clumsy.

Look at the last sketch and you will see a correct 6spd pattern. Let's talk about this using proper labeling. The 1-2 shift is straight back and quick. Keeps momemtum up when you need it. The R-1 shift is also fast because both springs are moving you back to home. From there it's a light pull to go either to 1 or 2 depending on which starting gear you want at the time.

Another point is that the modern fuel injection really sucks. You get NO engine braking because of the poor programming. This defeats one of the big advantages of having a manual transmission.

An auto to manual conversion really isn't worth the effort on these computer controlled vehicles. You just don't gain enough driveability to make it worthwhile. The do-gooders have buggered up everything good in life.

An old body style vehicle with minimal computer crap on board would be a better candidate. Think 87-98 Ford or 88-99 GMC and put in a mechanically injected 5.9 ISB engine with a first generation NV4500 (deeper low gear).

 

Another thing about the correct 6spd pattern is that it makes teaching someone how to drive a real breeze. They can start off in 1 so clutch engagement is not fussy (harder to stall using the lowest gear). The shift to 2 is easy to master compared to the ZF pattern.

For me, automatic transmissions will always be "wonderful devices for disabled people".

 

Neil, sorry you've had a tough time getting used to your truck.
While Neil and I have similar trucks, I cannot complain about mine.
It is true that the L-R gate is stiff, but I got used to mine almost immediately. Additionally, I haven't experienced a lack of engine braking. I can't go into the same mechanical depth about fuel injection programming, but this truck slows down when I downshift though I may simply be experiencing the girth of a 7000lb vehicle with the aerodynamics of a brick!


There's no doubt in my mind that the ZF6 is a stout unit. Swapping one in a 2008+ rig is going to be tough. Sorry I don't have any pointers or tips. Here's the best way I can help out:

If you need pictures of anything like the pedal assembly, crossmember, bellhousing, etc... I'd be happy so snap some pics and post them up.

Let us know what happens!

 

Chris,
It has taken me a long time to get used to this vehicle. The real problem is that I've had vehicles that were much more user friendly. My first vehicles had frame mounted clutch and brake pedals which have a more natural arc when being pressed. Suspended pedals will never match that feel. The cramped foot room of modern vehicles is another flaw, but most people don't know the difference because that's all they've ever had.

I'm not saying the ZF6 is a bad unit, it just doesn't work as well as other gearboxes. It will always seem slow shifting and clumsy to me. I'm glad your choice is working well for you. As to engine braking, mine just doesn't have any. The dealer says that is how they are made nowadays. Mine slows down at highway speeds, but it's only the result of weight and air resistance. Maybe it would have some slight braking if I really rev'd it up, but I don't exceed 3000 RPM in daily driving. The extreme lag in fuel turnoff results in coasting whenever I decelerate. Maybe your 4.10 axle ratio makes some difference. It will be interesting to see what Tristan thinks once he has the v10/stick combo.

For the original poster, I think the cost and aggravation of a swap is not worth the trouble.

 

As much as I love my manual transmission, and the 5.79:1 Low gear ratio, and the uniqueness of a ZF6 in a sea of automatics produced by every auto maker...

I agree with Neil_E.

Unless you have a doner vehicle, a lift, and another vehicle to drive while your '08 is down for the swap, it doesn't seem worth it. Off the original topic, I know...

Back on topic- my offer still stands. If there's any way I can help with pics let me know. I'm not aware of anyone who has done this swap on a 2008+ model Super Duty yet.

 

Well you are correct I do love me a stick shift and I could not find any gas motor manuals that I liked in my area. The closest one was on the East coast. I just keep thinking of things I would love to do to my truck and this is one of them. But I will most likely stick out the auto for a while and make sure next time I buy a manual. Or maybe just save up the cash I would have spent and get me a M35A.

 

I have to disagree with neil on the shift pattern thing.

I have driven many many miles in big trucks. And I much prefer the reverse to be up and left. rather than down and right.

When rocking the vehicle back and forth (I.e Stuck in the snow)it's way better with the reverse and low in the same gate.

For maneuvering a trailer when you have to Go forward and reverse multiple times it's much better there too.

It took a few weeks to get used to shifting from low to 1st gear, but I prefer it much more than the zf5 I got rid of.

 

I also enjoy low and reverse in the same gate. Much easier for rocking like you said. And I don't really ever pull a trailer. But I do get stuck in the snow...ALOT! When you got rid of the zf5 did you buy a new truck or just put in the zf6?

 

If the hill is that steep, you should just leave your transmission in L until you get over the crest.

Absolutely untrue. Engine braking is created in a gasoline engine when the throttle blade is closed. During the intake cycle, the piston is trying to draw air past the closed throttle blade, which creates a vacuum. Creating this vacuum takes energy, which is what causes engine braking. Fuel injected vehicles have throttle blades just like engines with carburetors. There is no difference in engine braking performance.

 

I wish this were true. The current drive by wire system does not provide ANY engine braking in my vehicle. The revs are VERY slow to return to idle, so how can you get engine braking? We are talking two seconds to get to idle from 3000 RPM when the throttle is backed off and the clutch depressed. I agree with the throttle plate explanation, that's the way it has worked for years. Something in the modern setup must be preventing quick closing of the throttle plate. Even if I let the revs drop to idle, then engage the clutch pulling the engine back to road speed, it doesn't slow the vehicle down.

This is not unique to the F250. Other manual transmission vehicles that I tested before ordering the 09 had the same sleepy return to idle and NO engine braking. I should call Mike at 5 star and see if he has an explanation. I don't want to try a tuner until the warranty is up.

As to the shift pattern, I can understand how rocking in snow would be easier. I drive in snow too, but haven't had to rock a vehicle in years. I do use LO every day (as a creeper gear), so the other shift pattern would suit me better. I have driven 5 ton trucks that had reverse over low, but they weren't double sprung to that gate, so the low to 1 shift was convenient.

 

In neils defense I believe he was referring to the lag that happens when you let off the throttle on these trucks.

meaning when driving, and I remove my foot from the throttle there is a several second delay before the engine will wind down.

I read that is for emission reasons. idk for sure.

It is nothing like my last truck ('89 diesel) If I took my foot off the throttle quickly, everyone in the cab would kiss the windshield.

 

But if your foot is pressing the clutch pedal down and you let go of the gas pedal wouldn't that pretty much just leave the truck in neutral since the clutch pedal is pressed down, leaving you with no engine braking?

 

what i meant was, assume I am driving in 4th gear around 40mph.

if i let off the gas to slow down, it takes several seconds before the engine will begin to slow me down... after that it works ok

 

With some custom tuning the drive by wire can have the lag taken out of it. I see neils point with the zf6 pattern but I also see how having first an reverse in the same gate can be very useful. I'm used to the manual in my 74' with the 1,2,3,4,R pattern but I'd still would like a manual in my SD.

Could a trans shop lighten up the spring tension between the 1st and 2nd gates?

 

I think if you always put it in R or LO when you park, the spring would loose some of it's tension.

One thing I'll talk about is rocking a manual transmission vehicle in snow. I have never found a reason to shift between forward and reverse gears. In most situations you can get a "bit" of movement. It might only be half an inch. I find that I can use the clutch to move that tiny bit, then release it so the vehicle rolls back. By timing the roll you can amplify it to where you get out easily.

Another useful thing to know is that the lighter end of your vehicle will climb better. Backing up often gives more traction than going forward. The 2800 lbs on your rear axle will climb easier than the 4200 lbs on your front axle. Once the rear wheels pack the snow, your fronts will have less height to climb.

Also, your tire tread normally rounds off from going forward, but has a bit sharper edge when going backward.