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Fuel Heater replacement

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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 07:09 PM
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Fuel Heater replacement

I've narrowed a problem down to the fuel heater, or at least a short in the heater. It seems like a simple task to replace, but I'm not sure where start. Its at the bottom of the fuel bowl I assume? Can anyone give me some simple procedures or point me to some for replacing the fuel heater? Do you have to remove the fuel bowl?
 
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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Their's a good write up on here, I can't find the link... If your going to replace it upgrade to a SD heater, they are better built and require only minimal modification to work. You will need a crowsfoot wrench to get the stand pipe out. You don't have to remove the fuel bowl but it does make it easier and a good time to clean the valley of death.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 07:33 PM
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X2 what he said Plus.........That stand pipe is LEFT HAND THREADS.
I have modified a couple fuel bowl and installed the SD fuel heater. One very important part is to purchase the heater from International as they will charge about $25.00. If you purchase it from Ford they will charge you about $140.00 and smile while they do it.

Many on the forum just disconnect the heater and claim that they don't need/use it so they don't bother repairing or replacing it. You might want to consider that option as it is mucho cheaper.

If you do decide to do the mod give me a holler and I'll lay out the steps. It's not a difficult mod but I wouldn't even consider doing it with the bowl still installed.

Rog
 
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 10:07 PM
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My heater went out about 6 years ago. I live in an extremely cold climate -40* on some days in the winter - still waiting to see 70* this year. Never had a problem without it. Needless to say we only have good quality winterized diesel locally and I have never had a problem with jelling. Since disconnecting the heater, the glow plugs seem to pull more juice and starting has improved. May just be a coincidence but that's been my experience.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by kawa
X2 what he said Plus.........That stand pipe is LEFT HAND THREADS.
I have modified a couple fuel bowl and installed the SD fuel heater. One very important part is to purchase the heater from International as they will charge about $25.00. If you purchase it from Ford they will charge you about $140.00 and smile while they do it.

Many on the forum just disconnect the heater and claim that they don't need/use it so they don't bother repairing or replacing it. You might want to consider that option as it is mucho cheaper.

If you do decide to do the mod give me a holler and I'll lay out the steps. It's not a difficult mod but I wouldn't even consider doing it with the bowl still installed.

Rog
Thanks for the offer... I like the idea of the SD upgrade, but right now I just want to get this thing fixed and out of my shop as soon as possible. Is there a place online you can order international parts? The closest dealer here is about 90 miles away. I can get the part from them if I have to though... maybe I can get them to ship it to me. Does anyone have an international part number for the stock heater for a 95 7.3?

I thought about just disconnecting it, but I've read that even though it doesn't appear you have a problem, without the heater waxes and what-not will build on up the filter and also might mess up your injectors, so I'm gonna go with replacing it.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 08:27 AM
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Also, does anyone know what size crows foot wrench it is? I suppose I should just buy a set. Standard or Metric?

Is there a simple way to drain the fuel bowl on these things... and is it possible to do it without draining it all over the valley?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 08:45 AM
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I believe a basin wrench will work. It is at the hardware store and is used for getting loose water lines under the basin.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 08:52 AM
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Talking

Originally Posted by Lambo333
Also, does anyone know what size crows foot wrench it is? I suppose I should just buy a set. Standard or Metric?

Is there a simple way to drain the fuel bowl on these things... and is it possible to do it without draining it all over the valley?
IIRC 7/8", remember LEFT HANDED THREADS.
There are a valve with a yellow handle in the pass side of the canister to drain the bowl, but be careful because you will make a mess in your driveway, I put an extra hose (longer) and collect the fuel in a jar and see if you have water there.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 08:56 AM
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BTW I just took out the heather element and its very easy to clean the bottom of the canister in that way when you change your fuel filter.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 11:18 AM
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The only thing that the parts guy at the dealer could find was labeled "PACKAGE, FUEL HEATER", the part number is kind of hard to make out, but I think it is
18158 2C91
it may also be
18156 2C91

They want $88 for it.

There is another item in the parts listing labeled:
1811 53C1 RING, O, FUEL HEATER
...............HEATER, FUEL W/ O-RING

It looks like that bold item is what I need, but it isn't next to a part number.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 11:21 AM
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OK Lambo333, here are the Upgraded SD part numbers:

Ford F81Z-9J294-44

International 1831196C92


If you will PM me with your E-mail address I'll send you the whole procedure, it's quite simple and and requires a few simple tools.

Remember....International is $100.00 Plus cheaper than Ford.

Rog
 
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 11:09 AM
  #12  
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Thanks for all the info gents... I probably should have done the SD heater upgrade, but they had a stock replacement at the dealer here for $75. With the international dealer 90 miles away this was much more convenient and quick. Its a 10 minute job once I new where to start.

I'd like to know what they had in their heads when they made a plastic part with reversed threads. I wonder how many stand tubes have been ruined do those this marvel of engineering. I know if it wasn't for you guys I'd probably be waiting for a new one right now.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 12:47 PM
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Exclamation

Originally Posted by Lambo333
Thanks for all the info gents... I probably should have done the SD heater upgrade, but they had a stock replacement at the dealer here for $75. With the international dealer 90 miles away this was much more convenient and quick. Its a 10 minute job once I new where to start.

I'd like to know what they had in their heads when they made a plastic part with reversed threads. I wonder how many stand tubes have been ruined do those this marvel of engineering. I know if it wasn't for you guys I'd probably be waiting for a new one right now.
YEAP thats a very good question, I made it myself several times
 
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