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my 77 f150 has some lighting issues in the dash and also some other problems... here r the problems.
Gas gauge no work
Thermostat no work
Dash lights no work
That annoying buzz noise went away (i wouldnt call this 'bad', but i kinda wanna know what happened to it...)
the only lights that work on the dash are
a. flashers & turn signals
b. high beam indicator
c. seat belt light
d. brake light
e. altenator light
o, the spedometer is the only working gauge in the truck...
soo... is this a problem with all the censors, or can i blame this on the dash itself?
Just a guess, but it sounds like you have two different problems. The fuel and temp gauges not working. I would check the instrument panel voltage regulator. It looks like a small relay attatched to the backside of the instrument cluster, the connector looks like the socket for a 9 volt battery.
The second problem, no panel lights. Because you have some lights I wouldn't suspect something like a bad ground (very common problem).I would first check the bulbs just to make sure they aren't blown. If they're okay I would next check the light switch, make sure the inst. light dimmer is not turned down or off. Then normal trouble shooting, check the fuse, check voltage at the printed circuit board etc.
Sounds like the headlight switch is bad u can pick a new one up at a parts store for about 20 dollars make sure u pull the **** to the on position before u push the button and remove the ****. As for the buzz thats the fasten seat belt buzzer the clip is red its behind your headlight switch might check there while you are back there might as well clean up your gauges and clean the circuit board where the bulbs attach the copper corrodes and u get bad connections. Also u didnt say whether your light above the switches (lights wipers) is working its a different bulb type 1445 I think they burn out quick on me go ahead and replace that one too. Good luck and dont drop any bolts
Crawl under the truck, disconnect the fuel gauge sending unit, and ground out the lead with the key set to ACC. If the fuel gauge pegs full, the dash regulator is good. If not, the problem is upstream. Make sure you get an actual ground; don't assume that a rusty, grimey frame or crossmember is ground, because it won't be.
i forgot to mention that it's a new light switch and new bulbs... i checked the fuses and they're all good. i think it might be the dash panel itself, but i will check the sending unit.
i just pulled the circuit board off the back of the instrument cluster, and theres a bunch of white **** on it! idk what this is, but could this be causing the problems?
well, i put it back on after i cleaned it and it didnt do squat! then another thing popped into my head. when i brought it to my neighbor's to pull the plow frame off, he said "holy ****, did u have a short circuit here in the plow lights? the coating's melted right off the wires!" that was a problem the truck had b4 i got it, and so were the dash lights... any suggestions (that is, besides tearing into the wiring harnesses).
i really wanna get this done, b/c i'm hoping to be driving this truck to school this fall.
I don't know what to tell you man. I told you the first step to troubleshoot this problem, and you pretty much ignored any advice that I or anyone else gave you, and instead started randomly ripping stuff out. If you don't intend on following any of the troubleshooting steps that I, or the others here gave you, then why do you bother posting in the first place? If you want to isolate the problem between the gauge cluster itself or the sending units, I've told you what to do. If I had known you were just going to tear stuff out, then complain that it didn't work when you re-installed, I wouldn't have wasted my time answering your question.
The white powder stuff is probably from the plastic of the instrument cluster itself; it's not a conductor and probably isn't causing any of your problems.
I don't know what to tell you man. I told you the first step to troubleshoot this problem, and you pretty much ignored any advice that I or anyone else gave you, and instead started randomly ripping stuff out. If you don't intend on following any of the troubleshooting steps that I, or the others here gave you, then why do you bother posting in the first place? If you want to isolate the problem between the gauge cluster itself or the sending units, I've told you what to do. If I had known you were just going to tear stuff out, then complain that it didn't work when you re-installed, I wouldn't have wasted my time answering your question.
The white powder stuff is probably from the plastic of the instrument cluster itself; it's not a conductor and probably isn't causing any of your problems.
i did what u told me and found out that the sending unit wasnt the problem... i just forgot to post it.
and i didnt see anything on the back of the instrument cluster that looked like what mike said!
and i really dont think that the white stuff on the back of the circuit board was plastic, b/c it didnt want to come off!
i think the short that the truck had years ago mightve toasted some wiring, b/c the plow lights never worked at all since i had it, and neither did the dash lights!
Thanks for the clarification. Try pulling the headlight switch and looking at the dimmer. It's the round coil in the front of the switch. The assembly is called a rheostat, and the part that rides along the coil is called a wiper. If the wiper loses contact with the coil (which is common with age), the dash lights won't work.
Thanks for the clarification. Try pulling the headlight switch and looking at the dimmer. It's the round coil in the front of the switch. The assembly is called a rheostat, and the part that rides along the coil is called a wiper. If the wiper loses contact with the coil (which is common with age), the dash lights won't work.
i pulled the switch off 3 months ago and the rheostat was fried (nothing left of it), so i put in a new switch. theres still no lights. i'm starting to think that it's the wiring going to the switch itself, b/c the plow lamps shorted out that one time. so i think that the wiring couldve cooked, but i dont rly wanna jump into that wiring harness right away.
i had the dash out last night and i had the key on and i grabbed a batch of wires, and they were kinda hot. could this be bad?
It depends how hot. The wire that powers the coil when the key is set to RUN is a resistive wire, which means it dissipates heat throughout its entire length.
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