Cleaning the Compressor wheel
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Cleaning the Compressor wheel
Looking for info on cleaning the compressor wheel. Read the post "VGT turbo ABC's"--near as I could tell this was all about cleaning the hot side---great info Thanks.. I had oil in all of the intake air piping,,the output of the compressor is black and the wheel is black. The throttle plate cleaned up real easy--the black coating is soft---oil residue. I am in the process of installing the crankcase vent filter system to remove the oil. But I would like info on cleaning the compressor wheel. Thank you,,Randy
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If the oil is wet and gooey (like it probably is) grab some brake kleen, spray it on a rag and gently clean each blade. I would not advise douching it with a stream of brake kleen. It will be some work, but you should be able to get it all off. I was able to.
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Thanks joe blow for the info..what about the inside of the housing--looks like it is all black. So what I see when looking in the compressor is some blades, fairly small about an inch sq,,,there are no more blades back inside the housing??? I guess what I am saying is what you look at is all there is too the compressor blades and wheel,,,there are no secondary blades in the housing....
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I also wanted to mention that there is no in and out movement of the shaft, but there is some up and down movement when holding the end of the compressor shaft---estimate 0.005 to 0.008 thou of an inch..Is the up and down ok????
Thanks, Randy
Thanks, Randy
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The shaft contains two wheels...the compressor (cold side) and the turbine (exhaust side). There are no other blades other than what you see when you look into the turbo. The best you can do is grab a shop rag (shake it out so there is no lint or debris on it, wet it pretty good with brake kleen and work it inside of the housing as best you can. The residue will eventually come off with some work.
The up and down movement is ok as long as it is not excessive to where the blades are contacing the housing.
The end play I am not certain on....Either bismic or Tex25025 has that information commited to memory. It sounds like your ok though. It should be relatively tight (in/out shaft play)
The up and down movement is ok as long as it is not excessive to where the blades are contacing the housing.
The end play I am not certain on....Either bismic or Tex25025 has that information commited to memory. It sounds like your ok though. It should be relatively tight (in/out shaft play)
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From: Kansas City/Breckenridge
Also your play is fine. I believe I read somewhere that you can have somewhere around 1/16th of an inch is fine.
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Oh buddy...I thought you had the turbo out. You are doing all of the cleaning in chassis???? Definitely makes it harder.
There really isn't much to removing the turbo. It is held on by three mounting bolts, the large clamp on the back (up-pipes from manifolds) and the obvious exhaust, intake elbow and wiring harness.
Pre soak the exhaust bolts
There really isn't much to removing the turbo. It is held on by three mounting bolts, the large clamp on the back (up-pipes from manifolds) and the obvious exhaust, intake elbow and wiring harness.
Pre soak the exhaust bolts
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I removed the turbo this am. Wanted to pull off the hot section and make sure the variable vanes were working,, so I pulled the turbo. Had the turbo setting on the table vertical on the compressor side, came back a while latter and there was a big oil puddle. Oil had come out the compressor outlet,, looked inside and there was fresh oil in the housing. So it looks like that a shaft seal is bad.
Any recommendations on turbo rebuilding shops,,, I am in the Dallas-Ft Worth area.
Thanks for all the posts.
Randy
Any recommendations on turbo rebuilding shops,,, I am in the Dallas-Ft Worth area.
Thanks for all the posts.
Randy
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You sure it didnt come out of the feed line hole or the drain tube hole and run into the compressor side (far fetched but weird things happen sometimes)?
It kind of sounds like you are correct on the seal being bad. That probably explains the amount of gunk you had in your turbo...aside from the poo poo that flows into it if you haven't rerouted your CCV yet.
By the way, if you are going to service the vanes and unison ring....there is NO SUCH THING as a 1" arbor for your angle die grinder. I drove myself f'ing insane trying to locate one (and the discs) to clean in between the pins. I finally figured out (for one that I am stupid) that you start out with a 2" arbor, fire up your bench grinder, attach the arbor to your die grinder...hook it up to an air hose and GRIND IT DOWN TO THE 1" DIMENSION.
Please don't laugh I was going to keep that debacle to myself, but I figured I'd save you the headache.
Good Luck
It kind of sounds like you are correct on the seal being bad. That probably explains the amount of gunk you had in your turbo...aside from the poo poo that flows into it if you haven't rerouted your CCV yet.
By the way, if you are going to service the vanes and unison ring....there is NO SUCH THING as a 1" arbor for your angle die grinder. I drove myself f'ing insane trying to locate one (and the discs) to clean in between the pins. I finally figured out (for one that I am stupid) that you start out with a 2" arbor, fire up your bench grinder, attach the arbor to your die grinder...hook it up to an air hose and GRIND IT DOWN TO THE 1" DIMENSION.
Please don't laugh I was going to keep that debacle to myself, but I figured I'd save you the headache.
Good Luck
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Will removing the turbo make it easier to get at the IPR and ICP sensor? or is there other goodies in the way. From the 6.0l bible there are some heat shields on the back of the motor that might interfere. I'm trying to gain as much insight as possible before I start taking apart my daily driver plus RV puller for the weekend trips.
woops . . . . .
Back on topic
woops . . . . .
Back on topic
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This morning I found a Garrett authorized dealer here in the Dallas area. Took the turbo down to them and disscussed what was going on. The conclusion was --that the turbo appeared to be tight, operating ok, they pull oil during normal operation, there usually is oil in the intake tubes, and intercooler,, dont need to worry about the oil residue on the compressor wheel,,,,put it back on and run it,,see what happens. I am also installing the crankcase vent oil filter seperator kit. So the turbo goes back on the truck tomorrow.
New turbo was 1100dollars +/-, with 12mo warranty, you had to give them your old turbo, unlimited miles..Rebuild was usually 700dollars..
Thanks for all the info and your time.
Will put it all back together and give it a drive.
Randy
New turbo was 1100dollars +/-, with 12mo warranty, you had to give them your old turbo, unlimited miles..Rebuild was usually 700dollars..
Thanks for all the info and your time.
Will put it all back together and give it a drive.
Randy
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