I see a ton of them for the 7.3, and the 5.7/6.8litre gassers, but I haven't been able to find them for the 6.0, except one that says "peak output of 200a at 3krpm". Who the hell goes to 3krpm for more than a split second? Anyways, if someone could provide some links it would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 518pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=691 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 518pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 25270" width=691><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.5pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 518pt; HEIGHT: 13.5pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl26 height=18 width=691>HIGHLY RECOMMENDED PLACES TO BUY HO ALTERNATORS:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.5pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; HEIGHT: 13.5pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=18>https://www.dcpowerinc.com/home.php?osCsid=tivqeenfejieh8bhecn91chq56</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.5pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 518pt; HEIGHT: 13.5pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=18 width=691>http://www.ohiogen.com/html/catalog.html</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Do not use DBElectrical IMHO.

signed -

"Links-r-Us"

 

Doesn't necessarily mean 3K engine rpm. If the alternator pulley is smaller than the driving pulley the alternator rpm is greater than the engine rpm.


“A federal government big enough to give you everything you want, is strong enough to take everything you have.” ~ Thomas Jefferson

 

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 518pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=691 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 518pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 25270" width=691><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: fuchsia; WIDTH: 518pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl24 height=17 width=691>Look for Heavy Duty Diodes and Heavy Duty Rectifier</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: fuchsia; WIDTH: 518pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl24 height=17 width=691>If upgrading, look for 130 A output at idle (750 rpm)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: fuchsia; WIDTH: 518pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl24 height=17 width=691>Make sure you have a "Bolt-On" fit (guarantee) and no belt change is required</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: fuchsia; WIDTH: 518pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl24 height=17 width=691>For amperage over 200 A, you will need 2 gauge wire (for up to 5 feet; 0 gauge wire up to 15 feet)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
FYI
Ford standard alternator is 130 A.
Ford offers an upgrade to 160 A.

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 518pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=691 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 518pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 25270" width=691><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 518pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=691>When you install a High Output (HO) Alternator, it will come with a smaller pulley - this is what develops the higher Amp output.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 518pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=691>You may get a belt squeek due to the small pulley.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 518pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=691>The Goodyear GatorBack Belt may eliminate the squeek</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Check this out from DC Power.. I have one of their smaller units and it has performed great.. Their site has changed and they don't show as many options as before..You could give them a call and see what they say..They're great guys..

 

I upgraded to a 160 AMP altenator with the smaller OEM pulley that Mark is talking about. I recommend that you change pulleys. I replaced my OEM alternator with the upgraded alternator and the OEM belt. Went to WV pulling 10,000 lbs and the X overheated pulling a 5 mile 5% grade at 65 MPH. Never did that before and the OAT was 68°F. Pulled that same grade at higher OATs before with no overheat. I attributed the overheat to the smaller alternator pulley that reduced belt tension. With an old OEM belt (60,000 miles) and the reduced belt tension, I believe those two factors caused the fan to slip when the clutch engaged. I installed the larger OEM pulley on the upgraded alternator and a new Goodyear Gatorback belt. No more overheat. I believe just installing a new Gatorback belt with the smaller pulley will lead to overheating on hot days especially if you are towing a load. I looked into a shorter belt and could not find one.

However, with the larger pulley, I know my upgraded alternator capacity is reduced but is still more then the OEM alternator. It is a trade off.

Concerning alternator output wire. I added another piece of 4 "O" guage wire. I ran it from the alternator output to the passenger side battery terminal.

DSMMH

 

Thanks for the links and info. I want to hook up a 2500w inverter down the line, and it seems my alternator is dead, so I figured what better time.

 

I would say find a local automotive alternator shop and have them beef up your existing alternator (including wiring to the battery), or they may be able to even build you one. It may be way cheeper than buying an aftermarket one. I found this out when I went to my local alternator shop to see why my "new" internet ordered HO alternator was not working. My internet alternator turned out to be defective and it took me nearly 4 months to exchange it for a replacement from Quick Start Automotive.

 

That is why you need to really research before you buy. As william_04_x said, DC Power is VERY good. So is Ohiogen.com. If you have a local shop w/ a good rep, you can't beat that either.

 

The 6.0L have a configuration for two alternator installation. Depending on your needs you could install the second alternator and maybe at the rear box a third battery for your inverter.

I have no idea how difficult or expensive this route could be, but it's worth to think about it. No matter what happend to your extra battery, your extra alternator, or the inverter your engine should always start.

Good luck

 

Not sure what you're specific need is, what is the 2500 watt inverter to drive?
If you're only looking for mobile AC power, it might better serve to acquire one of the Honda EU2000i or similar generators. Light, quiet, and extremely useful And not tied to the truck. However, if the power needed is while running down the road, or gas powered is not suitable for other reasons, thats another story. Even with a 200 amp alternator and another battery, 2+KW is going to be hard to maintain for any length of time.


”Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety” Benjamin Franklin

 

If you do go with a larger amp alt. make sure you get one with a large case. I went with alternatorparts.com's 200amp heavy duty. puts out way more than I need but it's there if i need it. As for rebuilding, you're still going to have a smaller case and it will generally cost just as much as a new one.

 

Just out of curiosity, is there any way to tell which one you have by looking at them? Or, can someone tell me what this part# for the alternator (3C3T10300EA) from my build sheet represents?