When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 82 F-250 4x4, and would like to replace the rusty Box And Cab. What years will be a direct fit, and is it worth it?? I found a donor truck for 500 bucks. with no rust.
80-86 will fit and the dash is basically the same. 87 to 96 will bolt on your frame, but you get into dash and major wiring differences.
Make sure you get a title with any cab you buy, or your vin is not going to match your title you have now. Also if the donor is good except a mechanical problem, you could bolt all the donor stuff on your frame and just license it with the title you get from the donor. It will have your old frame, but be basically the donor truck year and model to the government's eyes.
My truck has no VIN# anywhere, maybe on the frame but I don't no where it is. How hard of a job is it to change the cab? Or would it be cheeper to just replace the floor and rocker panel rust.
My truck has no VIN# anywhere, maybe on the frame but I don't no where it is. How hard of a job is it to change the cab? Or would it be cheeper to just replace the floor and rocker panel rust.
Thanks Dale
Just stare at it for awhile, and think about your abilities. You are going to have to take the front off, unplug all the wiring, steering column, shifter/clutch and other misc stuff, and then also have a way to lift and support the cab while you roll the frame out from under it.
But getting a new cab might be the way to go if you don't have a vin. Unless this truck is off-road only, I would think you are going to need a vin with a title on the truck if you expect to sell it some day.
I have replaced floor pans and rockers before. It's not too bad, depending on how you want to approach it. If you just want to cover it up, then cut out the worst, and lay the new panels over the holes and screw or pop rivet them in place. If you want to do a better job you can weld them in the place.
There has to be a VIN on the dash, driver side, near the windshield. I have seen that part of the window be discolored/dirty and you can't see the number very well but it should be there. Contact your state DOT and ask about the procedure to swap a cab. In Wisconsin where I am from, it took allot of fooling around and writing back and forth as well as a few long distance phone calls but I was able to sort out the different VIN numbers for the original frame and my replacement cab so I have a valid title.
Good Luck!
Contact your state DOT and ask about the procedure to swap a cab.
I woudl avoid that if possible. Only get them involved if you really have to. That's why it's good to get a title with the new cab. That makes it all legit, and the number matches the one glaring at you under the windshield. The title won't match the frame number, but few people know were that number is, and even fewer will want to crawl under the truck and scrape the crud away to find it.
I just drill out the rivits holding the vin tag in the dash and rivit in the one from your old cab. DONE. no worries and no one will even know you switched cabs! O and peal out the door jam sticker from the new cab .
Thanks for all your help guys. I am going to get a new VIN assigned, it costs $25. A licenced inspector has to do it though. I live in Canada, and this is what my insurance company said. They say it takes about a week. As long as you have the REGISTRATION papers for it, it's no problem. ( so they say!! ) LOL