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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

radiator support Q

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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 05:07 PM
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radiator support Q

I am re-assembling my 55, I bought new flat rubber squishies and bolts that go above and below the front crossmember (under the yoke) and new isolator bolts with the rubber heads that go under the yoke. After tightening the 2 larger center bolts (TITE!) neither of the rubber "bumper" bolts is touching the X-member. PO had them in the holes in yoke (rubber down, threads up) 10" outboard of center, and not up from the X-member (rubber up, threads thru x-member) Aren't they supposed to be kinda squished as well?
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 06:46 PM
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raerjim
What did you end up doing? I have the same issue. I'm thinking put nuts on both sides of the rubber head bolts and jack them up to make contact with the yoke? Or maybe we are missing something??
Bob
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:29 PM
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I couldn't get the rubber donuts under the yoke arms.. used a smaller rubber pad.

Sam
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 12:08 PM
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Can someone take a picture of what you are discussing as I know I will have the same issue later and have no idea what you are talking about
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 01:16 PM
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me 2 lol.............
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 03:36 PM
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Best I can provide is a photo for my 1956. I know it is close, but there may be slight differences from the 1953-1955 years.

The first image shows the Dennis Carpenter kits for the 1953-1955 (M) and 1956 (N) radiator support.

The second image shows the front of my 1956 lower radiator and the support parts. I've labeled the support points so you can discuss them and use a name, instead of "the one on the left", etc.

On my 1956, the "B" location gets two hex head bolts but I know the setup on the steel radiator support is different from yours so I won't list stuff here. The "A1" and "A2" points get carriage bolts through the lower radiator support, through the round rubber bumpers with one hole, through the crossmember, and then terminate with a flat washer, lock washer, and nut. I tightened the "B location bolts very snugly (I didn't destroy the rubber pads). The "A1" and "A2" locations I just ran up snug. If I remember correctly, those are adjusted in conjunction with the inner fenders, outer fenders, and hood to get the front sheet metal to line up correctly. I haven't actually worked with the sheet metal yet so I would appreciate it if someone who has done this can comment and correct any mistakes I made.
 
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Last edited by Earl; Jan 18, 2010 at 05:39 PM. Reason: grammar error
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 03:45 PM
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looks clean
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 05:28 PM
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The kit I bought is the M. The rubber headed bolts don't make contact with anything. I was thinking of jacking them to a higher position by putting nuts on both sides of the cross member and using the threads to adjust them higher until they meet the radiator support. ??
Bob
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 05:37 PM
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My 54 only had the two bolts in the middle? Am I missing something?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 05:48 PM
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I did exactly as George did. As he correctly stated, the 56 and 53-55 setup is different. Dave, there should be 2 holes in the yoke (radiator support) each are about 10" outward of the center of the yoke. This was several months ago and my recollection is a little fuzzy, but as i recall. my rubber bushings didn't touch anything either. Altho the yoke is bolted pretty much solid with the 2 center bolts, I assume (u know what that makes) that a fully loaded radiator wil rock a little side to side, thus engaging the rubber bushings?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 07:22 PM
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My yoke doesn't have the holes on either side of center, guess that is the difference from the 56. Thank you guys.
 
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