Let me start out by saying I no longer consider myself a newbie to the word of automotive repair. I have replaced heads on my previous daily driver, rebuilt a T-5 in a living room, performed brake jobs ,redone interiors, installed full audio systems, pulled beds off of trucks etc...

I will say that the easiest of tasks are the ones that really drive me crazy. None more so than the Ford spring lock fuel fittings. All of the vehicles I have ever owned have been Ford branded with the exception of one Mazda Tribute which is a Ford too. Every last one of them has been a total pain in the *** to replace the fuel filter on and anything related to the spring lock connector. Every one. Without fail.

I'm a firm believer in owning the correct tool for the job. I have 3 different sets of spring lock removal tools. 1 set is the "x" type fitting, and 2 different sets of various sized plastic tools. I also hit them with PB blaster prior to removing them.

I know the tricks of removing the gas cap, and pulling the fuse to let it run out of gas to totally relieve pressure from the line. Done this a time or too, not an idiot...

Still every single time, without fail, I spend 30 minutes on each side trying to get the damn clip off. The first 30 minutes just sucks for my neck to hold my head in the correct position. Then like magic it just decides it wants to come off while I'm under the fuel filter now to get more leverage on it. The second 30 minutes sucks because now I'm covered in a strong burning solvent and my neck is sore.

From this point forward I renounce ford spring lock fuel fittings.

I just wanted to let you know. It also inspired me to write the Ford fuel filter haiku

Sping locks don't release
Gasoline is everywhere
Burning is felt now


Thank god I don't have to f*** with this for another 20k.


Edit: How do you tell if you're high on gas fumes?

 

I feel your pain and transmission lines for my Ford Windstar...you are not alone.

 

I felt much the same way the first few times that I did them. It gets better with practice. I have done so many now that it is just routine. Patience is the key.

 

I maybe wrong but do you need the tools on an 04? I didn't on my 06.

I let the truck sit overnight and only had about a 1/4 cup of fuel from the lines/filter. If the cap is off it may tend to drain quicker and alot more of it. Keep the cap on and don't waste the time pulling the fuse.

If you anticipate the fuel which i did i had a rag and a coffee can handy. Once your ready to pull the line, pull it with the rag on it. You should also use latex or work gloves it makes it a little easier and cleaner.

I would do 100 filters before i rebuilt a T10 or a head swap. Obviously if i had the choice. LOL

 

I'm sure you all know this, but I've found that some brake cleaner sprayed into the connections, and wiggle them and blow compressed air into them before trying to take them loose helps get them loosened up, and gets the dirt out of them. Then, after changing the filter, I put a little silicone lube, [not silicone sealant...] on the lines before sliding the connections back on. This will make it easier next time. Hope this helps...

 

Hmmm... I must've got lucky on mine. I didn't have any trouble with the clips on my '04 SD or my wife's Taurus. I used the plastic clip removal tool set that Lisle makes on my SD and the Taurus had the U-shaped clips.

I still need to replace the one on my '94 Explorer so maybe I'll feel the pain on that one!

 

If you can find the fuel line tool in metal get that one. I messed around for a couple years with those plastics pieces of S__t. The metal ones work so much better. It is a couple mintue job for me now.

 

I've had trouble on some Fords like this, and others were a breeze. I don't have any special tools, and I used to have a Thunderbird that I never could get it off.

As for MY truck, it has a screw on/off canister with an open element filter. It's a breeze and a joy to change the fuel filter on this thing, lol.

 

Life could be so pleasant if the manufacturers used cartridge type filters located at the engine. Unscrew the top, lift the element a bit, tilt to let it drain. Lift it away with just a rag under to catch drips. Drop the new one in, replace the top. DONE, no mess no fuss.

Reminds of my first cars from 47 and 54. They both had cartridge oil filters.....so nice to work on.

 

I'm planning on changing the fuel filter soon, but I'm unfamiliar with the tool you guys mentioned. Thanks.

 

There's a pic of the one I used on this page....

2004 F250 Fuel_Filter Replacement

 

The trick is:

Push the fuel line fitting towards the fuel filter. Insert tool while continuing to push fuel line fitting towards the filter. The little spring fingers get caught on the filter, and the harder you push the tool in, the more those fingers get caught.

 

The trick is:

Push the fuel line fitting towards the fuel filter. Insert tool while continuing to push fuel line fitting towards the filter. The little spring fingers get caught on the filter, and the harder you push the tool in, the more those fingers get caught.

 

to the OP, your original questions, I would say you are high on fumes if you are writing haiku about it.
And to Neil_E, you mean the canister type like a diesel...

 

Iv'e always found the quickest way to release the pressure is to take the little cap off the valve stem on the fuel rail under the hood and push it in like letting air out of a tire. (throwing a shop rag over it first though) Never had a problem with the filter tool either.