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Originally I posted this in the Excursion section, but was advised to copy it here.
First the history: '03 X, 4x4 w/ the 7.3l. 116k miles and have been running WVO/ diesel blend for around 5 months now. It's been running great except this morning it started hesitating a bit so it's time to change the fuel filter, plus I was on empty and it was time to fill up. So I stopped and added 12gal of diesel to my 44gal tank made it home and changed the filter. This is where the problems started. Upon removing the old filter if came apart; I have never had this happen before. I thought I had pulled it all out, but apparently I left the bottom metal plate from the filter in the bowl. But before I realized this, I had ran the truck; drove it into the back yard filtered up the rest of the tank w/ washed/heated/filtered WVO like I always do and when I went to drive it back around it was running real rough and knocking and finally died. I pulled the new fuel filter and realized what I had done by leaving part of the old in there. So I removed the metal plate and drained the bowl the best I could as well as cleaned it. I then refilled the bowl w/ some straight diesel and replaced the filter and tried to start it. Well it will not start, sound like it's choking and knocking........oh, what have I done and does anybody have a suggestion on what to do next? Thank You Todd
The injectors probably ran themselves dry. It may take a few cranks to get all the air out. If you have a charger, put it on and try a couple more times. Also, make sure you can hear your pump running (may have shorted bowl heater with extra plate). If it is not running check your fuses.
Thank You gmm, I've tried several cranks. I'm flushing the fuel bowl out the best I can right now before I try again. I will also check the fuses as you mention.....good point!
Also, I think I may have found my problem; my Superchips programmer has a code reader on it and I'm getting tons of codes for the ICP sensor and when I pull the plug there is oil on it. I think it is all a coincidence, but I'm calling around now for a price for that as well.
Keep cranking, give the starter some rests in between cranks and cycle the key 2-3 for 30 seconds each before trying to crank over. it may take 5- 10 tries before it fires and it will run like crap for about 2-10 miles until you get all the air out of the fuel rails. just like if you ran dry out of fuel.
Fuel bowl completely clean, even blew it out w/ air and dried. Refilled w/ diesel and replaced filter.
ICP; HOLY crap, $175 and I have until 5pm to go get it. I blew it out w/ air and tried to start w/ it unplugged and plugged in, still no start. Sounds like crap though, knocking like crazy......is that because of all the air in the lines? I'll keep trying as suggested, I just hate to do damage if something is wrong.
Also, if ICP is bad and I can get it started unplugged; how long can I go w/out it? Long enough to find a better deal and get it shipped? Or should I just haul *** to the dealer and get it now? I guess I can wait till tomorrow.........I don't really need my truck now.
Well, I finally got it started and it ran like crap!!!!!!!!!!! as you said. I tried limping it around the block and before I got back to my house it died.....pushing that beast is not easy. It's mostly in my driveway lol and I can not get it started again. I'm keep trying though.........
Also unplugging the ICP didn't seem to matter when it was running. I don't know if that is a good sign or not, but I'm assuming since I have oil in the plug I need to replace it.
I can't believe there isn't an air bleeder on this thing........didn't they have those for the pre powerstroke 7.3l?
I got it started again sort, it tried to move itself back up the driveway but didn't make it and died. I'm still trying while giving the starter a brake.......I'm assuming this is still because of air in the lines?
The sensor is $145 shipped off flebay..........better, but not great!
I don't see any in tank mods listed in your sig. What kind of fuel pressure do you have? Turn the key on and open the drain valve do you get a strong steady stream? Fuel bowl always full when you check it?
WTS light acting normally? At first I thought maybe you had damaged the fuel bowl heater during this ordeal, but getting it started a couple of times seems to negate that one.
And don't forget to make sure the engine oil is full.
Well I've been able to get it started off and on, it seems the fuel bowl gets low after it runs for a short while and stalls. So it appears I have a bad fuel pump or a blockage. My plan for tomorrow is to get a pressure gauge to see what the pressure is (does anybody know what the pressure should be?) and then pump out my tank since I'm full (44gal) and drop the tank. See if it is a pickup issue or is it really the pump.......... Maybe it's time to do that intank mod I've been thinking about as well..........
My money is on plugged screens in the mixing chamber. A quick, cheap, free, but messy test for the fuel pump is to disconnect the line off the front of the pump. Place a short rubber hose on it and dump it into an empty bucket. Turn the key on and see what the flow is like. Then disconnect the line off the back of the pump (plug the line so it doesn't drain the tank) and stick a hose on the back of the pump. Place that hose in a container of diesel. Now turn the key on again. If the fuel is flowing much better from your container of fuel than it does from the tank, you're looking at an obstruction.
My guess is your issue is this
Since you're running WVO, I'd highly recommend you plan on doing the hutch and harpoon to eliminate the mixing chamber all together and add an inline filter between the tank and the pump. Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page
FYI, running the tank low means you start to pick up any trash/sediment in the tank, which will plug those screens.
Thank You F350-6, I will be doing this pump test tomorrow after I drain and drop the tank! And yes it looks like it's time to do the Hutch and Harpoon mods as well. I will be reading up on those tonight, hopefully I can get all the parts locally.
If the pump is bad, is it fine to go w/ an autozone pump, or should I go w/ a ford pump?
I've heard good reports from the NAPA pump, which I've been running for the last 60k or so. I've heard even better things about the Walbro pump, but if you're in a hurry, NAPA is usually just around the corner.
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