if they are in good shape, just clean and pack the old ones.

 

Yep, can hand pack the bearing if they are in good shape, Won't know til I get them off, but no excessive play when I check them on by wiggling the wheels. looks like the tough part is going to be seperating the disk from the spindle. Do you guys use a press for this or can they just be knocked loose? Should I plan on replacing the lug bolts too?

d

 

I just pull them off with my hands. If they are stuck,go at it with a slide hammer.You can rent one from Auto zone, O Reilly's or Advanced.If the lug studs or not torn up I would keep them.Do one side completely and then the other, then if you put something together wrong you can look at the side that is still together. That has saved me from many screw ups.

 

Thanks Bill,

I had read in this forum, where the best way to seperate the spindle and rotor was to use a brass punch and drive out the lugs, then the spindle and rotor would seperate easily - of course depending the corrosion easy is a relative term

are you talking about pulling the spindle off the shaft with a slide hammer or seperating the spindle and rotor?

I hope I don't need a slide hammer to pull the spindle off, but you never know.

Thanks

d

 

I mean use a slide hammer to pull off the rotor. I have never had one that did not come off in my hands when I took the nut off the spindle bearings,so you should not need a slide hammer.I am sorry, but I am not sher what you mean by separating the spindle and
shaft. Do not worry if you have got to get a slide hammer. You just pay a deposit, use the tool, bring it back and get your money back.

 

Well, that is because I was thinking hub and typing spindle. I found a drawing, have a new rotor and pads, bearing grease and penetrating oil, so will probably be doing this on the weekend. I appreciate all the assistance.


Dave

 

OK - a little progress and a possible setback today.

First, got the truck smogged, had to by a distribution valve for the smog pump, and an exhaust check valve. Then had to get creative to get them to join together since the S shaped hose that connects them appears to be obsolete. In any case, got that done and she passed smog. Was then able to go to the DMV and get plates on the old girl.

On the way home, the rear end started growling a bit, she had done this previously, but after adding some fluid to the diff, over a quart low, it quieted down and was barely noticable. Not so on the way home. I got underneath, fluid was leaking out of the yoke, and when I disconnected the drive shaft at the rear U-Joint I found a bit of side to side, up and down and fore and aft play in the Yoke. Went to the local parts store, bought the right size socket 1 and 1/16 in case anyone is curious, and snugged up the nut on the yoke. Took it snug and a smidge more. no more play, and a quick around the block test drive indicated no more growling. I am pretty sure I am going to be back into this issue in the not too distant future, as there has yet to be an easy fix on this truck.

So, question for you experts out there, I have rebuilt engines, tuned em up, swapped clutches, brakes are a piece of cake usually - though this one might be interesting, the question is, how tough is it to swap out the bearings in the rear end? Pretty sure it is no ta 9 inch as it has a removable back cover only. Can the bearing be replaced from the front side, or do I have to dissassemble the rear end to get to it?

A drawing would be great if someone has one.

Thanks

d

 

I have worked on 3 9" rears in old police cars and you have got to pull it all to do the pinion bearings. If you have rebuilt an engine than you can rebuild an axle. A chilton book will
give all the specifics, but it gos like this. 1 jack up the back and put it on jack stands.
2 pull the tires and the rear cover on the axle, drop drive shaft. pull back brakes, C clips on the axles in side of the housing and pull out the axle shafts.3 pull ring gear and pinion.

you need to keep in mind 3 things
1 you may need a new ( junk yard ) ring & pinion if you get in there and they are too worn.
2 you may need to have a shop press in some bearings
3 If you get in there and find you need 1 & 2 , get the whole assembly out of a junkyard.( i mean the housing and all, a whole axle can be had for $200 that is what i did last time i did one. )

how did the brake job go?

 

Thanks Bill

Brakes this weekend I hope, Weather has been a bit nasty. My boy comes home today, and he wants to learn how to work on cars, figured this would be a good starting point for him. I have all the parts, but going to have to get a helicoil for the slider bolt, seems like it wont tighten up and pretty sure I don't want it falling out

I am sure 8.8 rears are out there to be had, but when I started calling around for a speedo, the wreckers here said they didn't have any old fords in the yards. Now some may have meant no old speedos, but that is not what they said. I can post on CL to see if anyone has one, and can drive to nearby states if needed to go get one.

I have a good mechanic, who won't rip me off, but it is probably $600 to R&R bearings, gears, etc. $200 for a JY one sounds like a bargain.

d

 

I Scored a Chilton Manual 1980 to 1986 Ford Trucks for $5 today. Also picked up a CB and Antenna combo for $5 at a garage sail.

Maybe I will have some half decent reference material now and wont have to ask too many basic questions. It will be nice for the boy to have also if he starts fixin his own stuff.

Now I need a radio and speakers to finish up the inside and I still need to find some drivers side door hinges. Or modify the aftermarket ones the PO but on there so the door will seal properly.

d

 

In the OP you said the axle was new, right?
what trans does it have?

 

Not sure of the model, but it is a 4 speed manual with a granny gear I think I read np403 somewhere in the book, but not positive, truck is a 4x4.

PO said he had replaced the back axles, and both a-frames - it does not look like he did the drivers side, though the passenger side appears to be in decent shape. I suspect he just replaced tie-rod bushings and bearings in the left - tie rod looks to be in good shape, and this is probably where the slider bolt got stripped out, had some permatex on it. I am going to Helicoil it (as suggested by Uncle Stosh) when I do the brake job. It is going to need a new centerlink too I believe as there is a little play and the grease cups are cracked and wont store any grease.

 

should be a NP435. got one in my '85 and i love it! real tough tranny. as far as junkayards around there, i used to go to bango between silver springs and fallon. havent been home for a few years but i do recall them having loads of old fords out there.

 

thanks, ill check into bango

d

 

where is that?