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died + no start / NOT CPS / recurring code U1262

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died + no start / NOT CPS / recurring code U1262

 
  #1  
Old 05-26-2009, 11:46 AM
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died + no start / NOT CPS / recurring code U1262

My truck died on us on the way to work this morning. We were only 5 minutes from home so we got a ride back, she went to work and I stayed home to play with it.

You may remember a recent post about it dying, and I bought a cheap replacement CPS from O'Rielly to fix it. I wanted a spare anyway so I bought another when they opened at 9:00, then took it and my laptop + AE cable to go have a look. Replacing the CPS did not help this time, and I'm thinking I just got lucky last time.

I pulled the codes and got a whole bunch:
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B1483
U1027
U1058
U1059
U1262


I cleared them and went through a couple more no-start cycles. One of the codes returns each time:
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U1262

The things in common about the last time it died, and today are that it's very wet / humid and we were going up a slight incline. Both times you can hear solenoid clicks under the dash when it dies, and the tach needle drops. Last time it died once and that was it; this time it cut out but came back after I gave it more throttle, 3 times before dying for good.

I have not had much luck searching for these codes. I am about to give up and meet a tow truck driver there. Any ideas?
 
  #2  
Old 05-26-2009, 12:08 PM
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U1262 is a communication bus failure which means the communications system between PCM, IDM, GEM fail to communicate with each other. Sounds like a connection may be loose in the harness. The other codes all point to a system communication error (repeated Invalid or Mising Data on your AE).

If the PCM was fried, that would I think, cause your problem too.
 
  #3  
Old 05-26-2009, 12:09 PM
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All I have been able to find so far is that U means it is a network error. One post on another forum said the dealer should look at it but don't go that route just yet, I'm sure the guru's will be along quickly!

I know that isn't much help but I will keep searching.

Edit, looks like one of the guru's beat me to the post!
 
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Old 05-26-2009, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by liftedgrocerygetter View Post
Edit, looks like one of the guru's beat me to the post!
 
  #5  
Old 05-26-2009, 12:19 PM
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Thanks for the quick replies.

While standing there thinking what to do, I did check the connectors around the firewall and under the steering wheel next to the fuse box. Just pushing them together I didn't feel any looseness or hear any snap together.

Hmmm keep the ideas coming and thanks again.
 
  #6  
Old 05-26-2009, 01:36 PM
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here ya go

B1483 Brake Pedal Input Circuit Fail - 4WD module

U1027 i cannot find anything maybe scan it again

U1058 J1850 SCP Trans Fluid Temperature Invalid - Instr Clstr

U1059 J1850 SCP Trans/Transaxle PRNDL invalid-Instr Clstr

U1262 J1850 SCP Communication Bus Fault - Instr Clstr

Im going for a ground issue SOMEWHERE!!!! Pull the driver side kicker panel off and check the black ground wire the should be attached behind that panel...
 
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Old 05-26-2009, 01:41 PM
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i found this on a mustang forum


U1027 D027 SCP (J1850) Invalid or Missing Data for Engine RPM
 
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Old 05-26-2009, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 4inchlovin View Post
here ya go

U1027 i cannot find anything maybe scan it again
U1027 indicates no RPM data is being received, I believe. I would start at a disconnect and reconnect of the PCM checking the connection for moisture/corrosion AND Nolan's suggestion to check the ground. This is ALL pointing towards a communication problem, IMO.
 
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Old 05-26-2009, 02:27 PM
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I know this sounds off the wall and I am by no means a guru or mechanic, but from reading the posts in the forum and fixing some of my issues with my truck..AND..the way some circuits are dependant on others, doesn't a faulty fuel bowl heater element cause the engine to just die and not restart? Maybe it shares a common ground or something with some other circuits causing the codes to be thrown????

Just a thought. **cringes waiting for the smacks on the back of the head.**
 
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Old 05-26-2009, 04:03 PM
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Thanks for all the help. You can see the descriptions in the AE screen shots, I just am not finding much along the lines of real troubleshooting info for them. My gut tells me it is electrical related and probably won't be cheap. I just got home from having it towed to the dealership. I will keep everybody posted on what they say.

While waiting for the tow truck driver I checked the two grounds just behind the lower dash cover. They looked clean and were tight. I also started pulling fuses and relays to pass the time. At one point after that it did fire up and idle, but when I gave it some throttle in park it cut out and died again. Same symptoms as before, you can hear the relays click and the gauges reset like you've turned the key off and then it won't start again.

Thanks again for the help so far and stay tuned.
 
  #11  
Old 05-27-2009, 08:35 AM
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Well the dealership called right before they closed yesterday to say the truck was done. The wife was home from work so we ran down to pick it up.

Of course the tech that did the work was already gone, so I only got to speak with the service writer. He told me there was a shorted wire, in the wiring harness next to the lift bracket, that was replaced.

I wanted to know which exact wire and what the circuit was for, but he couldn't tell me. The only evidence I could find was a new section of corrugated wire loom, next to the driver's side lift bracket. I'm tempted to remove it and the tape and look to see.

Anyway, I tempted fate and drove it to work this morning. Runs like a champ. The fix seems correct for the symptoms, but man that's an expensive chunk of wire. The tow was $120 and the total repair bill was $208 ($160 of that was the generic "diesel diagnostic", even after I showed them the codes I pulled).
 
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:46 AM
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Great news Justin, though quite a bill (but on the upside it could have been a hell of a lot worse)!
 
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Old 05-27-2009, 10:34 AM
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Cool Thanks for the update!
 
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Old 05-27-2009, 12:33 PM
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WOW I would of been happy with a bill like that considering how high I have seen repair bills from the dealer. I took my bike with me a couple of months ago to a dealership since I had business there and I wanted my bike tuned and ready for the season....they set the valves, installed two new tires, (I supplied the tires), oils change and a new battery for just over $200. I was excited. I expected it to be closer to to $400.

Good thing it is fixed tho. Now just to make sure it doesn't rub through again in the same spot.
 
 
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