1996 f150 300 6 4x4 standard.
This is the most major thing that I have done mechanically. So bear with me.
Removing the head was not near as bad as getting to it. I took lots of pictures as i was taking all of that junk off of the top of the motor so I wouldnt forget where it all went.
I took the head to the machine shop and they said it was cracked so I ordered another one from advance auto.
When I began this project there was no rain in sight but boy howdy as soon as I got the head off hear comes the rain. I put all of the parts in the cab to protect them. when i lift the hood there is some water on top of the pistons and some surface rust forming on top of the block where the head goes. Its been raining now for a weak here and it will be another 6 days or so before i can get back to this project. should i pour some oil in the cylinders or something to help protect them?
To get the manifolds off i hade to remove a pipe that went from the exhaust to what I think is the egr valve. I put two cans of pb blaster on it over about two weeks spraying daily am/ pm and tried the torch but could not budge it. I hade to cut the pipe to remove it. Is this important or can i just crimp it off and jb weld it shut?
the other part that i broke is a rail with plugs that screw into the head. Some one told me that it is an air injector or something for smog. I broke it trying to unscrew the plugs so i left it on the old head and droped it off at advance. Is this a necessary part or could I just plug off the holes in the new head?
I plan on replacing the water pump and thermostat while i have it tore down, is there anything else i should replace or fix at this point?
I did keep the rods and rockers in order and removed the head bolts in the right sequence. So i guess i did something right here.
Steve

 

You need to hook up the EGR and injection rails.
These parts are nearly imposable to seperate after 15 yrs, so your judgment in cutting them is sound.
The litle bit of surface rust can be prevented from spreading further by applying oil lightly to the bores and deck.
Clean with brake cleaner and sand lightly with emery cloth to remove rust. Blow everything clean before head installation.

 

ok, I sanded down everything and applied oil like you suggested.
I have not been able to find the air injection rail anywhere. Ford is the only one who has it and it was around 200 or so pluss 20 for each fitting. Im gonna have to plug these holes and hope that smog junk is not really needed. I bought 6 9/16x18x2 inch grade a bolts to plug the holes. I didnt lock tight them in so if I ever run across an air inject rail I can put it back the right way if needed.
I put the head rockers rods plugs and valve cover on today. Is there anything special I should of done to the valves, or just torque them down to 20#.
Tomorow i am going to put the manifolds on and try to remember where everything went.

 

I put an old industrial 300 in a 1990 and it didn't have the air injection ports in the head and it ran just fine.
-Johnboy

 

I torqued mine "snug". Ford used positive stop rockers. There may be a torque spec but I dont know it. You may throw a code or run a bit lean without the smog pump but dont see much probloms arising.

 

You can find that A.I.R. tube with the six plugs that screw into the head here, and it's 89.95 here instead of 200 LMC Truck Parts - Page 103 I'm not sure if it comes with the fittings, But I'm sure that they'll be able to let you know if you give them a call.

 

I wouldn't worry about the AIR lines. They just put air into the exhaust to help the cats clean up the exhaust. I have seen these plugged with bolts quite often.
The EGR should be hooked up, you might have to do some real work at it, but those fittings need to come out so you can replace the tube.
Other than that it should be all ok.