Cab Mount Replacement Guide
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
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From: Gilbert, PA
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2003
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One guy used a holesaw just a little larger than the nut on the bottom in order to separate the nut from the bottom shell.
After removing the mount assembly from the perch, seperate the nut portion from the upper shell and then simply use a standard nut and washer in it's place.
I didn't need to go that extreme on mine. I was able to blast the units apart by beating on the bolt with a BFHammer.
Just make sure you remove the "interlock" between the upper and lower shells so you wont have to go there again.
And yes, the poly mounts do radiate just a little bit more road vibration into the cab, but it is minimal and not annoying.
After removing the mount assembly from the perch, seperate the nut portion from the upper shell and then simply use a standard nut and washer in it's place.
I didn't need to go that extreme on mine. I was able to blast the units apart by beating on the bolt with a BFHammer.
Just make sure you remove the "interlock" between the upper and lower shells so you wont have to go there again.
And yes, the poly mounts do radiate just a little bit more road vibration into the cab, but it is minimal and not annoying.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
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I just did mine, and cut the rear bolt heads with a grinder, got lucky on the middle ones, and used a sawzall/grinder under the radiator support. I had to cut the middle bushings out, though, because of the sleeve/washer thingies built in.
The factory bushings have metal sleeves/washers, and my poly didn't come with any, and the stockers were either too rusted or too cut up to use.
I just got some 1/2 inch bolts, then had some sleeves made up to slide inside the replacement bushings so the bolts fit tight instead of floppin around inside the bushings.
I dunno if you can get just the sleeve/washers from ford or not, but it would be easier.
Anyway, its a major PITA, I'm glad its over, and won't ever do it again!!
The factory bushings have metal sleeves/washers, and my poly didn't come with any, and the stockers were either too rusted or too cut up to use.
I just got some 1/2 inch bolts, then had some sleeves made up to slide inside the replacement bushings so the bolts fit tight instead of floppin around inside the bushings.
I dunno if you can get just the sleeve/washers from ford or not, but it would be easier.
Anyway, its a major PITA, I'm glad its over, and won't ever do it again!!
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Whitefish
Howdy,
So i just removed my bushings. I had no idea how to and would have ended up spending hours and hours destroying them to get them off if it had not been for the idea of using an deep well impact socket and a jack. It took me more time to move my hydraulic jack than it did to cut those bad boys off with the Sawzall. i lifted up on them from below unit my wheels began to lift off the ground and i had tons of clearance to get the blade in there. Thanks for posting that idea... here are some pics to help explain
Pictures by Whitefishboy08 - Photobucket
Thanks,
WhitefishBoy64
So i just removed my bushings. I had no idea how to and would have ended up spending hours and hours destroying them to get them off if it had not been for the idea of using an deep well impact socket and a jack. It took me more time to move my hydraulic jack than it did to cut those bad boys off with the Sawzall. i lifted up on them from below unit my wheels began to lift off the ground and i had tons of clearance to get the blade in there. Thanks for posting that idea... here are some pics to help explain
Pictures by Whitefishboy08 - Photobucket
Thanks,
WhitefishBoy64
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 75
From: Gilbert, PA
Howdy,
So i just removed my bushings. I had no idea how to and would have ended up spending hours and hours destroying them to get them off if it had not been for the idea of using an deep well impact socket and a jack. It took me more time to move my hydraulic jack than it did to cut those bad boys off with the Sawzall. i lifted up on them from below unit my wheels began to lift off the ground and i had tons of clearance to get the blade in there. Thanks for posting that idea... here are some pics to help explain
Pictures by Whitefishboy08 - Photobucket
Thanks,
WhitefishBoy64
So i just removed my bushings. I had no idea how to and would have ended up spending hours and hours destroying them to get them off if it had not been for the idea of using an deep well impact socket and a jack. It took me more time to move my hydraulic jack than it did to cut those bad boys off with the Sawzall. i lifted up on them from below unit my wheels began to lift off the ground and i had tons of clearance to get the blade in there. Thanks for posting that idea... here are some pics to help explain
Pictures by Whitefishboy08 - Photobucket
Thanks,
WhitefishBoy64
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Whitefish
Howdy,
It is all one combined piece. There are steel bushings that run the length of the rubber. By compressing (pushing upwards) on the bottom rubber section, against the steel that the two halves are sandwiched around, the top section of rubber is pushed up slightly via the steel bushing inside of it. This allows for plenty of room to slide the sawzall in between the rubber and the fame and allows you to cut the steel bushing and the rubber that is holding the two halves together. After cutting though the steel bushing the entire cab mount will fall apart.
The part that i am pushing on is the welded nut on the bottom most part of the mount. if you get down and look up at it from underneath you can see it. On the drivers side you will need to remove the gas tank support strap, two bolts through the center frame support, and peel it back. I used a deep well socket and an extension straight onto the jack.
Thanks,
WhitefishBoy64
It is all one combined piece. There are steel bushings that run the length of the rubber. By compressing (pushing upwards) on the bottom rubber section, against the steel that the two halves are sandwiched around, the top section of rubber is pushed up slightly via the steel bushing inside of it. This allows for plenty of room to slide the sawzall in between the rubber and the fame and allows you to cut the steel bushing and the rubber that is holding the two halves together. After cutting though the steel bushing the entire cab mount will fall apart.
The part that i am pushing on is the welded nut on the bottom most part of the mount. if you get down and look up at it from underneath you can see it. On the drivers side you will need to remove the gas tank support strap, two bolts through the center frame support, and peel it back. I used a deep well socket and an extension straight onto the jack.
Thanks,
WhitefishBoy64
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 75
From: Gilbert, PA
Ok. I follow what you did now, BUT you RUINED the steel bushing and they are about $50 a piece.
To pull the mounts apart.... all you need is
-3" diameter exhaust tubing(5" long)
-7/16 threaded rod (8-10" long)
-scrap angle iron from a nerf bar mount
1st unbolt one side(driver or passenger)
- loosen the other side(but do NOT remove the bolts)
- fashion a puller. Similar to this
-Slide the pipe over the bottom mount then some flat stock. And put the threaded rod thru the flat stock and thread into the nut on the bottom mount.
- Then tighten a nut against the flat stock. It will pull the lower mount from the upper.
-Once you have them separated, you need to remove the steel sleeve from the rubber bushing. Then slide the steel sleeve into the new poly bushing. and reassemble.
I still have the bed off my truck so I cannot judge if I need to reuse the factory shims. You may or may not
here is the bushing that came from the passenger side front cab mount. There is about 1/4" difference between the old/new. And the new ones are much more rigid, so they will not crush down like the OEM rubber ones
To pull the mounts apart.... all you need is
-3" diameter exhaust tubing(5" long)
-7/16 threaded rod (8-10" long)
-scrap angle iron from a nerf bar mount
1st unbolt one side(driver or passenger)
- loosen the other side(but do NOT remove the bolts)
- fashion a puller. Similar to this
-Slide the pipe over the bottom mount then some flat stock. And put the threaded rod thru the flat stock and thread into the nut on the bottom mount.
- Then tighten a nut against the flat stock. It will pull the lower mount from the upper.
-Once you have them separated, you need to remove the steel sleeve from the rubber bushing. Then slide the steel sleeve into the new poly bushing. and reassemble.
I still have the bed off my truck so I cannot judge if I need to reuse the factory shims. You may or may not
here is the bushing that came from the passenger side front cab mount. There is about 1/4" difference between the old/new. And the new ones are much more rigid, so they will not crush down like the OEM rubber ones
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Whitefish
Howdy,
Well for what i am doing i did not need to save the mounts. I am putting a 64 body on my frame and i am having to fabricate mounts that will use some of my 94 and some of the 64. I would spend the extra time and effort to pull them your way to save the bushings, if i was to reuse them, especially for $50. Here is a link to my project, i will be updating it one of these days.... when i have the time...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...storation.html
Thanks,
WhitefishBoy64
Well for what i am doing i did not need to save the mounts. I am putting a 64 body on my frame and i am having to fabricate mounts that will use some of my 94 and some of the 64. I would spend the extra time and effort to pull them your way to save the bushings, if i was to reuse them, especially for $50. Here is a link to my project, i will be updating it one of these days.... when i have the time...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...storation.html
Thanks,
WhitefishBoy64