Well there are a few things that i figured it get out in one thread hoping yall could help me a bit.

First off, i recently replaced my heater core and hoses. Everything went fine, except i think i overfilled it with coolant. Which is why i think the problem has occured. The problem is, the top radiator hose is starting to buldge near the clamp on it. Its now stretched and wont go back to original size. So is this going to hurt anything? Should i replace it? An do you think this happened because i overfilled it? Heres a pic of it. Thanks


Alright now, well i was showing my father some of the work id done to er, than he said i should learn how to take off all the emissons saftey stuff thats around the motor. Him nor i now what to really do, and if its very complicated ill prob just wait and do it in later time. But if any easily guided help for taking those off that would be great.

Now for the main part. My carb. I dont know much at all about them. (yes ive looked through the search system for help already, but that thing is so screwy. It kept coming up with all the same threads which lead me to nothing. So i figured id just post it up and see if you guys could help me. If yall cant im just gunna have to take it too someone. (btw im not sure what carb it is except for its a motorcraft 2 barrel.)

So anyways...The problems with the carb.
When i shift to park with it running the throttle wont kick down usually. If i punch the gas a few times sometimes it will go down.

Now in the winter the trucks barley drivable. The truck runs so rough it will die and chug and take forever to go. Also its weird but its like its not shifting when i take off. (automatic tranny) Its like it rev's up when i accelerate and than it will kick in and give a jerk when it finally shifts.

Also, my trucks very slow taking off. If you try to punch it from a dead stop it wont go full speed/or runs like half as fast as it should i think.Its almost like it has no power. Im not sure of anything but that seems like to me that gas isnt getting into it fast enough or what?

Well these are a few things i can think of right now that it would be great if yall could help! Sorry for such the long post but i had a few things to mention. Thank you very much! Also here area few pictures of the carb.



Also some help on what controls what so i could possible adjust it some would be great!


This thing on the side of the carb isnt held on that great..What is it and does it need to be put on better to run properly?

Now last thing, on the back of the carb there is a hose that has an open end leading no where. Does this need plugged? or whats it for? Thanks again

 

That thing on the side is your choke. It helps with cold starting. If you have a hose coming off your carb that is sucking air when the motor is running, you need to plug it. Vacumn leaks are a bad thing.

How old is that hose? You can't really overfill your cooling system. If there is too much fluid, the pressure created from the heat will cause it to burp out into the overflow bottle. The hose is most likely old or defective. I would replace it, if it's swelling it wont be too long before it bursts.

 

try dousing the carb with some oreilly's carb cleaner, its cheap and at the least it will make it look better, then run some seafoam through any vaccume line, might help ease some of the pain... prolly wont solve the problem but its good to do every now and then anyway...

 

if its a small hose plug it the big hode goes to the brake booster a carb kit would work as well it looks like it could use a rebuild take the numbers off the tag on the front to any partshouse and u can get a kit for round 20 bucks by the way its a 2150 motorcraft 2 barrell

 

The thought of rebuilding the carb has been going through my mind lately.

Will this help much? is it hard? Fairly cheap? Easy to put back on?

Also is it worth doing? Or should i be looking for a new carb?

Thanks

 

I played with the air fuel mixture screw when my 1980 l6 wasn't up to speed, when I got it set good I knew it I did a 2o foot burn out down the road. Emmisions are tough especially when you cant even decode the friggen emmision sticker. there is a real good thread on here by a man that really makes sense of it, I should of took the name down. Getting warm air into it in the winter when you start it is another mess of hoses, I m working on. I wonder if they sell E kits or something like that

 

i had the same problem with my carb.if you look down the past the choke blads there is a piece that looks loke a big screw.there are metering rods there.they are probably stuck open.it took me awhile to figure this out,and was ready to toss the carb and buy a new one.just be gentle you don't want to to bend those rods.when they were stuck open the truck behaved like it was running out of fuel and no power,i could only get about half throttle when in gear.

 

Okay, thanks for the help yall...

I went to advance yesterday and picked up a new radiator hose and im getting ready to replace that a few other little things.

I asked how much it would be for a carb rebuild kit and its gunna be around 25 he said. (still thinkin on this)

But anyway right now im gunna go play around with the carb and see what i can do.

Any more inputs great! Thanks

 

Got the hose replaced and its not swelling up anymore so thats good...

Played around with the carb for a bit but i just dont know enough about them to help any. So i figure im just going to take it into a mechanic.

But after i replaced my hose, i also got new battery terminals to install on the end of the cables. That didnt turn out too well.. The old terminals were so old and worn on the battery post that i had to pry them off.

Finally get them off any install my new terminals on cables and hook it all up to my battery. Go to start the truck. No power...

Hummm, play around for a bit longer and try it again, still no power. Comes to find out i pryed the post off the battery some and it destroyed the battery.

So 50 bucks later and a lesson learned my trucks running good again.

 

Your problems with acceleration and the tranny shifting hard are probably related. That hose that you mentioned being open and going nowhere is probably a vacuum hose. If it is a vacuum hose, then you are losing loads of engine vacuum, which makes the engine run rough and sluggish.

Judging from the transmission kick-down rod (the yellow rod on the driver's side of the carburetor) you have either a C-4 or a C-6 transmission, which use a vacuum modulator to control shifts. If you have little or no vacuum, the transmission will act as you described.