1986 150 4speed gets nothing
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1986 150 4speed gets nothing
Wasn doing anything under the hood. Inside lights and radio all had power. But not a thing was working up front. jumped it, and slowly started. Turned it off to gas up, and started right back up. Next moning Had to jump it again. Got new battery and still the same problem, but now i cant even give it a jump to turn on.
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I put a new selenoid, it looked alittle different then the one that was on there, the post were smaller on the new one, but anyhow it didnt work, so iam gonna maybe try and clean the connection wires a little better. Are there any test i can do that will help me find the problem. Could it be the starter or something. I did this thing were you touch the starter post with a screw driver. I didnt work for me but i have seen it work on other trucks.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,298
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From: NJ
Solenoid is rules out if didn't crank when you jumped solenoid terminals. That also makes bad ignition switch or wire unlikely. Another test for that is jump 12v to the S terminal and cehck for 12v at starter terminal on the solenoid.. In any event, pull the starter off and hook it to jumper cables to test. Ground to bolt/flange and 12v to post, should spin. If not go buy a new starter.
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
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From: Maine (NorCal Native)
I seen a guy bench test a starter like that and took his pinky finger off!
Make sure you hold it good and keep your hands and fingers away from the bendix gear.
Touch the ground to the starter flange as the last connection!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Make sure you hold it good and keep your hands and fingers away from the bendix gear.
Touch the ground to the starter flange as the last connection!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,516
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From: SoCal
When I had the same problem on my 87 Ranger I simply added a jumper between the positive battery post & the starter relay. No joy, it still would'nt crank.
Added the jumper from negative battery post to engine block & when it fired right up I knew the negative cable was shot.
Added the jumper from negative battery post to engine block & when it fired right up I knew the negative cable was shot.
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So I went out and put a new starter and still nothing. But then i remembered that the owner before put a toggle swithch under the dash, that runs to the negative on the selinoid. Pulled it out, and one the the wires had came off, put it bak and then fired the bad boy up! Thanks for everyones help.
Theres nothing like climbing under a truck on a hot philly street.
Theres nothing like climbing under a truck on a hot philly street.
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From: Oklahoma
Check your ground circuit between the battery and the engine, and between the battery and the cab and frame. An easy way to do this is to hook a jumper cable to the negative battery post, and the other end to a good solid ground point on the engine. Do the same for checking the ground to the cab or frame.
I had a situation once where the ground went bad between the battery and the cab. The engine would start and run, but it ran very rough. Simply turning the radio on would kill the engine.
Make sure the connections are clean and tight at both ends of the cables. Also, check your positive cable to make sure it hasn't rubbed through the insulation and shorted against the frame or engine somewhere.
I had a situation once where the ground went bad between the battery and the cab. The engine would start and run, but it ran very rough. Simply turning the radio on would kill the engine.
Make sure the connections are clean and tight at both ends of the cables. Also, check your positive cable to make sure it hasn't rubbed through the insulation and shorted against the frame or engine somewhere.
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Today my positive post on the seliniod melted off. Both wires were hot Neg and Pos. About an hour before it started funny, the starter kept running when ever i put the clutch down. I diddnt even have the keys in, so i turned the key untill it started the motor. THe battery, selinoid, and the starter are new, The old selinoid had taller post and had spaceres for the wire connections. But everything else was the same.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
It's impossible to say for certain by remote; it could be the solenoid is merely where the
true problem is manifesting itself/making itself known. Those things should NOT melt in
normal operation; this tells me either the starter is drawing WAY too much power, OR
the contacts inside the solenoid are faulty and too much current is flowing through too
small of a conductor.
But, a lot of those Chinese solenoids have been failing in recent years, coulda been bad
production runs or sumthin'....
true problem is manifesting itself/making itself known. Those things should NOT melt in
normal operation; this tells me either the starter is drawing WAY too much power, OR
the contacts inside the solenoid are faulty and too much current is flowing through too
small of a conductor.
But, a lot of those Chinese solenoids have been failing in recent years, coulda been bad
production runs or sumthin'....
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