Caliper Slide Pins
#16
I wouldn't waste the time on trying to save it.
Junkyard is another option. Obviously check to see that they move smoothly and the boots are in good shape. Pull back the boots and look them over too. They might allow you to take only the bracket (worked for me once) or you might have to take the whole caliper. A lot cheaper and this is a part that is not likely to fail prematurely like many junkyard parts do, as long as it is in good shape.
High temp brake grease is the proper lube. Checking the boots for tears and even popping them off for a peek at every tire rotation is a good idea.
-Dave
Junkyard is another option. Obviously check to see that they move smoothly and the boots are in good shape. Pull back the boots and look them over too. They might allow you to take only the bracket (worked for me once) or you might have to take the whole caliper. A lot cheaper and this is a part that is not likely to fail prematurely like many junkyard parts do, as long as it is in good shape.
High temp brake grease is the proper lube. Checking the boots for tears and even popping them off for a peek at every tire rotation is a good idea.
-Dave
#17
I just checked around, and my favorite grease to use on 4x4's is Bel-Ray Termalene grease 2. It's boiling point is 600 degrees, which is above the operating temp of most hi-temp brake greases I could find.
The good thing about it is, it's salt-water resistant, used for trailer wheel bearings on boat trailers.
I used it in my '74 highboy front bearings, and when submerged after driving around the shoreline to get to my sister's house after a hurricane near-miss, I took apart the bearings and there was water in it. BUT - it didn't mix with the grease.
I've used this stuff on my Superduty slide pins and they still move with no problem years later. I also used it on the needle bearings for the front axle stubs.
9150-01-306-9167 Grease, Water-wash Resistant
If you look at it's operating temp, it's around 500 degrees, which is at least as high as "hi temp disc brake wheel bearing grease".
The good thing about it is, it's salt-water resistant, used for trailer wheel bearings on boat trailers.
I used it in my '74 highboy front bearings, and when submerged after driving around the shoreline to get to my sister's house after a hurricane near-miss, I took apart the bearings and there was water in it. BUT - it didn't mix with the grease.
I've used this stuff on my Superduty slide pins and they still move with no problem years later. I also used it on the needle bearings for the front axle stubs.
9150-01-306-9167 Grease, Water-wash Resistant
If you look at it's operating temp, it's around 500 degrees, which is at least as high as "hi temp disc brake wheel bearing grease".
#18
Well what an ordeal this has been. Drivers side is done, passenger side nearly done. What I ended up doing was drilling a 1/4 inch hole through the backside and inserting a piece of smooth rod and beating with a hammer, hoping this would help. No such luck. Next I took the 1/4 bit and drilled through the slide pins from the front until I was nearly though, then followed that with the 31/64 bit. Then again to the backside with the smooth rod and beat them out. It worked really well, though It was more time consuming than I had hoped. Also if you're not sure careful you'll most likely not follow the slide pin precisely creating a slightly larger channel, as I did. But I suspect with the right amount of grease as Krewat suggested, No problems should arise. Thanks guys for all the input, hopefully someone will find this thread of use someday!
#19
Seems strange all the trouble these things cause, Fords better idea, Oh well, just did mine yesterday, used the blue tip got a nice orange color on it, grabbed it with my welding gloves and put the pin in the vise and moved it back and forth till she loosened up. Sandblasted the holes out and reassembled with new hardware, good as new. Heat is the big factor in all this, you have to get it HOT, propane or Mapp won't do it.
#20
It's a very common design. They work fine as long as they are maintained. But nobody ever check them until they seize up. Like I said - every rotation, check the boots for holes/tears and add a little hi-temp brake grease or at least look inside the boot. Replacing a torn boot is cheap & easy and will save a lot of grief and $$.
But then this is why I do all my own work. i doubt any shop would take the time to do checks like this.
-Dave
But then this is why I do all my own work. i doubt any shop would take the time to do checks like this.
-Dave
#21
#22
#23
Big.
#24
i've never checked my owner manual but these should be listed in yearly maintenance. i've had three differant wheels have a pin freeze on me in the last three years.
i've done alot of snow plowing in the past two years so i know their under moisture quite abit.
i've owned a half dozen trucks in the past ten years an have never had this ongoing issue before.
but at least we know now to keep up on it.
i've done alot of snow plowing in the past two years so i know their under moisture quite abit.
i've owned a half dozen trucks in the past ten years an have never had this ongoing issue before.
but at least we know now to keep up on it.
#25
I just took my wife's Expy to my new local shop to have the rear rotors turned. Of course they mic'd them to be sure they were in spec etc, etc. when I got the bill, it detailed what they did. One item they showed was that they checked the pads and the caliper slide pins. Man was I pleased. That is why they are my new shop.
Big.
Big.
-Dave
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