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Just wondering if anyone has ever used a pressure washer on the engine to clean it? I have a V-10 if that matters. I don't have any oil leaks or etc, just trying to get the sand/mud out of there.
I have used the hose before on my previous vehicles. Might want to go easy but then again, why not? Just make sure the engine and it's block is not hot.
Last edited by ruschejj; May 19, 2009 at 07:46 PM.
Reason: content
I have in the past, using some eng cleaner and gentle hosing down. Avoid Alternator, intectors and COP's
Originally Posted by 350z
I did it the same way , several times , and had good results, no problems.
X3... I would avoid using pressured water on the belt tensioner as well. I had to replace it after using a pressure wash on my 1988 Mustang GT. Do it on a hot day and leave the hood open to allow for quicker drying. You can also use compressed air to remove standing water on the intake manifold and other areas.
X3... I would avoid using pressured water on the belt tensioner as well. I had to replace it after using a pressure wash on my 1988 Mustang GT. Do it on a hot day and leave the hood open to allow for quicker drying. You can also use compressed air to remove standing water on the intake manifold and other areas.
Good idea using a compressed air. Didn't even think of that. I might just use a garden hose instead of a pressure washer on then just dry it really good.
I did a pressure washer on my X with the V10. I didn't know how sensitive these engines were and ended up shorting out a couple coil packs after it started up. Never ever again will I clean the engine. I would be curious to know what the dealer does to clean them so well with no ill effects.
If you worried about the COPs remove them, wash the engine and then blow out the holes with compressed air. Give it a while to really dry out and then reinstall the COPs.
If you're gonna do it, do NOT use a pressure washer.
Be prepared to pull all the COPs after you are done. Get some dielectric grease, and an air compressor with a long thin air chuck.
Use regular car soap. Soap down the engine, valve covers, intake tubing, everything you can reach.
GENTLY use a regular hose nozzle and hose off the engine. If there's anything left, soap it up again and use some elbow grease where necessary.
After you are done washing it off, use the air chuck to blow the water off all surfaces, stay away from electrical connectors when doing this.
Pull all the COPs. Blow out the spark plug holes, if the engine is dirty you'll have dirt down the spark plug holes anyway, so it's a good time to clean everything up.
Clean up the COP boots if you need to.
To reassemble, pull the COP boots from the COPs, put a coating of dielectric grease around the top of the boot where it seals to the COP. Re-insert COP into the boot. Apply a coating of dielectric grease to the tip of the boot where it seals to the spark plug insulator, AND put a good bead of it to the seal surface where the boot seals to the head. Insert COPs and bolt them back down.
Depending on the electrical connector seals, I sometimes put dielectric grease on the rubber connector seals.
After all the dielectric grease, it's usually OK to GENTLY wash down the engine once in a while to keep it clean. DO NOT spray water directly onto the COPs or where the boot seals to the heads.
I'll never wash an engine bay out with water, especially from a pressure washer. Get a rag, some spray cleaner/degreaser, and take a few hours if you really want it cleaner.
This has been my method on all of my cars. Typically I use Castrol Super Clean and spray the motor down,then I start the vehicle up and wash the engine bay and motor out (while it's running) with a hose, a light pressure spray nozzle is ok.
Just stay away from the alternator.When you're done let it run for a bit the heat from the motor will dry everything else out for you.
I've done it this way for years and never had an issue.
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