1963 brakes
#1
1963 brakes
I am in the process of getting a 1963 ford f100 in working condition.
The brakes o this truck are no good, they don't even kinda work. I can press the brake all the way to the floor and they dont respond. This truck has been sitting for about 6 years or so. Is it possible that the fluid leaked out? I haven't checked the fluid level, but i am going to pick up some fluid and see if its just a matter of replacing the fluid.
Approximately how much fluid does a truck of this size take and how do i find out where the leak is if there is one?
what else other than a leak could have caused them to quite? how do i drain the old fluid?
thanks in advance.
The brakes o this truck are no good, they don't even kinda work. I can press the brake all the way to the floor and they dont respond. This truck has been sitting for about 6 years or so. Is it possible that the fluid leaked out? I haven't checked the fluid level, but i am going to pick up some fluid and see if its just a matter of replacing the fluid.
Approximately how much fluid does a truck of this size take and how do i find out where the leak is if there is one?
what else other than a leak could have caused them to quite? how do i drain the old fluid?
thanks in advance.
#2
Welcome 63 F100,
If you are planning on driving the truck, I would go to your friendly/local NAPA and just order new wheel cyls. and a new Mast/cyl.
I would try new fluid first if you just want to get it going, but if they are all originals,,,, I would opt for new if you are going to be on the road,,,
Congrats and Welcome again
If you are planning on driving the truck, I would go to your friendly/local NAPA and just order new wheel cyls. and a new Mast/cyl.
I would try new fluid first if you just want to get it going, but if they are all originals,,,, I would opt for new if you are going to be on the road,,,
Congrats and Welcome again
#3
I agree and also welcome to the site. Not to get too far ahead, but once you get it going (actually stopping) you might want to consider a front disk brake kit install. Continue to use the drum brakes on the rear, but don't make the same mistake I did and spend money, time and effort on new drum brakes for the front when it still doesn't stop the way I want it/them to.
#4
Well i stopped at NAPA and got a quart of brake fluid. I got home and looked at the the fluid that is in the truck and it is goop. it has a consistency somewhere between jello and toothpaste. How do i remove this "fluid" and replace it?
eventually i want to get them road worthy, but for now i just want to get them operating.
eventually i want to get them road worthy, but for now i just want to get them operating.
#5
Obviously, you're going to have to get the goop out first. I'd try pouring some fluid in the master cylinder and see if you can get a pedal. If you do, then take brake hose to each wheel off and see if you can blow some of the goop out by pushing on the pedal (sort of like bleeding them). The hoses are probably almost closed up and will need to be replaced anyway. You may need to replace the metal lines of the goop is too solid.
#6
If it is gooped in the master it is gooped elsewhere. including the rubber lines.
Replacement of the steel and rubber lines and wheel cylinders are in order. BTW the single push 63 front wheel cylinders are available no where..
If doing all this work, now is a good time to up grade to a disc brake setup.
Garbz
Replacement of the steel and rubber lines and wheel cylinders are in order. BTW the single push 63 front wheel cylinders are available no where..
If doing all this work, now is a good time to up grade to a disc brake setup.
Garbz
#7
C2TZ2061A .. Right Front Wheel Cylinder / Obsolete / Fits: 1962/63 F100.
ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY in Arlington TX has ONE: 817-275-2381.
No Ford Dealer or other obsolete parts vendor has any.
-----------------------------------------------------
C2TZ2062A .. Left Front Wheel Cylinder / Obsolete / Fits: 1962/63 F100.
No Ford Dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any.
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#8
#9
Gee Bill... Only one..... I Guess i should not have sold those last two i had a guy in Ohio that insisted he had to have them....
It is common to see this in vehicles sitting for even a year. the brake fluid will absorb moisture like a sponge out the surrounding air and it will attack the components from the inside out.
Swapping to disc is a fairly easy job, but not cheap. good kits are in the 250 to 400 dollar range and do not include the master cylinder or booster. It all depends on what you want to do with the truck. You can rebuild all the brakes on the truck to stock but it will still be with all new parts woefully inadequate in the brake department for modern traffic.
What are your plans for the truck?
Garbz
It is common to see this in vehicles sitting for even a year. the brake fluid will absorb moisture like a sponge out the surrounding air and it will attack the components from the inside out.
Swapping to disc is a fairly easy job, but not cheap. good kits are in the 250 to 400 dollar range and do not include the master cylinder or booster. It all depends on what you want to do with the truck. You can rebuild all the brakes on the truck to stock but it will still be with all new parts woefully inadequate in the brake department for modern traffic.
What are your plans for the truck?
Garbz
#10
#11
I went out to work on the brakes this fine day and managed to break two of the bolts that hold the wheels on. Yes, two of the 5 that hold the tire on. how do i replace that? I assume i need a new wheel?
The brakes still dont work, there is something electrical that goes into the reservoir, two wire, what is this? also, can i disconnect the lines and drain them that way? i tried to bleed them by unscrewing the little valve and pumping the brake, but nothing came out.
The brakes still dont work, there is something electrical that goes into the reservoir, two wire, what is this? also, can i disconnect the lines and drain them that way? i tried to bleed them by unscrewing the little valve and pumping the brake, but nothing came out.
#12
The two wires are for your brake lights. That little screw in dudad trips your brake lights when it feels pressure in the line. I know it sucks to spend a bunch of cash, but I would advise you to go all new lines and such. If you buy the disc brake backing plates from a supplier, someone used to have a thread that tells you all of the parts needed to change over to disc. The pre 65 trucks cost a little extra to convert. I finished up brakes on my 66 today. I have all new brakes front and back, new master cylinder and booster, and all new rubber and metal lines run. I was able to keep the rear drums as they were in very good condition. I was only out about $300-400 for everything. I already owned the donar truck so I had the correct spindles.
My advice........spend the money and be safe.
My advice........spend the money and be safe.
#13
#14
I went out to work on the brakes this fine day and managed to break two of the bolts that hold the wheels on. Yes, two of the 5 that hold the tire on. how do i replace that? I assume i need a new wheel?
The brakes still dont work, there is something electrical that goes into the reservoir, two wire, what is this? also, can i disconnect the lines and drain them that way? i tried to bleed them by unscrewing the little valve and pumping the brake, but nothing came out.
The brakes still dont work, there is something electrical that goes into the reservoir, two wire, what is this? also, can i disconnect the lines and drain them that way? i tried to bleed them by unscrewing the little valve and pumping the brake, but nothing came out.
The studs can be replaced.
The brakes still do not work due to all your lines gunked up and the rubber hoses swelled shut. No amount of bleeding will alleviate this.
Garbz
#15