We don't need to let this get nasty

It's just that the eBay headers satisfy those of us who've had to do SOMETHING with the stock logs, who don't want to pay a very high price for a minimal gain.

Personally, I've just shaved off over a second on my 0-60 time with a tuner, and eBay headers/y-pipe and Volant CAI. Just think about what that means in terms of torque/HP gains without going with a Banks setup

Back to the original poster, who specifically stated that he was NOT looking for something that didn't just bolt in.

 

sounds good..........

bolt in and go.. no notching frame, cutting anything........... BANKS, Doug thorley's, Gibsons!

decent bolt in, no abnormal mods needed, and those will come with their y-pipe as well!!

 

I actually just did some research on this statement. None of these "features" have EVER been done on a Ford V10. You know why? Because the V10 didn't respond as well as other engines did. One article even claimed that they "didn't notice a significant gain in low end hp or torque but mileage might have been affected". "Might" have been? The bottom line is, the V10 doesn't respond to ANY performance parts real well. As a matter of fact, I cant even find a dyno comparison on the banks website for the triton V10. Only a crappy "fake" bar chart that someone made showing that with the banks headers increase the rear wheel torque some ungodly amount like 50 ft.lbs. You would need forced induction or cams to get that.

And again, I'm not sure everyone wants to drop $500-$700 on a set of headers that arent going to net them much HP gain. Most of the time they do it because of busted studs and replacing the logs with cheap headers is better than the logs themselves. I'm also not claiming the ebay headers to be the "pinnacle of manufacturing and performance" either. They are cheap, decently put together and so far they last, at least in my case.

 

guess you didn't reserach to much on the web site.........

and i QUOTE: (from the gale banks web site WITH dyno graphs on the page as well)

"Rear-wheel horsepower increased all the way through the engine's operating range, with a peak figure of 229.6 hp at 3,800 rpm (average over three pulls) and a best gain of 53 hp at 4,000 rpm. Torque likewise improved to 351 lb-ft at 2,809 rpm, with a best gain of 70 lb-ft at 3,600 rpm."

i'm sure further research will find you the same results, so there's no need to for me to post a link.....right?

 

Let's have a NICE debate, ok guys?

Jason, post the link, it'll help.

Does the Banks stuff include ONLY the headers, or other things as well?

 

Let's have a NICE debate, ok guys?

Jason, post the link, it'll help.

Does the Banks stuff include ONLY the headers, or other things as well?

 

Banks Power | 99-09 Ford - 6.8L V-10>>TorqueTube® Exhaust Manifolds No dyno chart, no claims. Just a BS bar chart that shows some type of tq gain.

Banks Power | 99-09 Ford - 6.8L V-10>>PowerPack® System Your posted HP and Tq gains are for the ENTIRE package, not headers alone. The kit includes headers, y-pipe, exhaust, intake, ottomind tuner and air filter, and also retails at over $1000.

I actually cannot even find the quote you made in any of the part descriptions on the banks website. You sure you are looking at the V10? You say in your quote that the engine made 229.6 peak hp, the banks website shows peak hp at 248.6 @4400 rpm on this page. That claim doesn't even match up to the entire system w/o ottomind.

Banks Power | 99-09 Ford - 6.8L V-10>>PowerPack® System

Maybe you need to research the site a little more.

Something else that is hilarious is that there is a quote at the top of the "power pack" page, next to the picture. It says "Banks' engineered upgrades add to engine life and keep EGTs safe." EGTs on a gas motor 'eh???

 

guess i do.............

o well you win........... i'll keep my link saved just in case you ever find it

your the man, your the banks god, your the header god, you KNOW EVERYTHING here in FTE............

thank you for your WISE O SO WISE INSTRUCTIONS MASTER

Semper Fi brothers have fun on the thread

 

ok, that was uncalled for. I didn't mean to insult you in anyway, I just knew that there was a catch to the so-called "banks power pack". Headers alone don't make 50+ hp gains by themselves. You need to have much more than just that. Hell, the stock muffler would kill any type of gains you would get with just the headers alone anyway.

Just read the banks site, thats all I did.

BTW: I didn't have to KNOW anything, I read it. In all the little links I posted.

To the OP: Yes the banks are going to go on easier. The ebay ones will need a notch on the passenger side frame that is about 4" long by 1/2" wide. Easily done with a 4-1/2" grinder with a cutting wheel on it. If all you want is to replace them, get the ebay headers, they are cheap and decently put together. If you want not to cut the frame, spend at least $400 more, get somewhat more of a HP gain and have them look good, get the banks.

 

To address the broken exhaust manifold side of this thread I seriously recommend pulling the heads and having a professional mashine shop extract the bolts. In the truck there is way too much chance of the drill bit sliding off the extra hard studs (steel) and drilling into the soft aluminum head. Once this is done you will have real issues and will probably be looking for another set of heads. I had 9 broken studs extracted and both heads completely reworked, one spark plug hole repaired and milling the head for under $300.00. Buy a head set prior to taking the heads to the machine shop so that you can provide the machinist the valve stem seals.

Advantages of going this route:
1. You can have the heads freshened up at the same time. 160K miles it is about time for that anyway.
2. Little to no chance of the extractions leading to head replacement.
3. You can have the sparkplug threads checked and repaired as needed with absolutely no chance of getting metal shavings or trash inside your motor.

Just my experiance and 2 cents. Give this some serious thought before proceeding.

 

The stock studs are stainless steel. You need a really good drill bit (you get what you pay for). I had no issues.

MAKE SURE YOU CENTER PUNCH THE STUD.

But removing the heads? That's a LOT OF EXTRA WORK.

If you take the plastic fender inners out, and jack up the engine, you have plenty of room to work with a straight drill. Many people here have done it with the right-angle jobby and it worked great.

I did it with a straight cordless and it was pretty easy. Just don't break off the easy-outs

 

Just mentioning another option and noting the serious risk of drilling them out yourself, especially if there are studs which are broken off at an angle in the hole(s). If you choose to go ahead and do it in the truck, good luck. You can't center punch studs that are broken off at an angle which I am sure you have since you say there are so many broken off. All I can say is BE CAREFULL and if the drill bit works its way off the stud and into the aluminum "stop". Then your removing head(s) anyway.

 

The studs usually break at either the raised shoulder (bad heat treating) or from stress and break at the threads. I had both. The ones that broke at the threads, below the surface of the head, were slightly angled. I center punched, drilled at an angle just enough to get a depression from the drill then straightened out.

 

Go ahead! Good luck. Keep us posted.

 

I actually had one that was cross-threaded in the head from the factory that broke off 3/4 of the way into the hole. I ended up drilling the hole two sizes larger and rethreading.

PS: a dewalt 90* drill is a lifesaver.