turbo kit
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Freshman User
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From: ft wayne, IN
turbo kit
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 40
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From: ft wayne, IN
He did originally but the first time it saw 18 psi it lifted both heads and took out the head gaskets. On tear down I found loose studs and a few that dripped with oil when I pulled them out. I think they were careless with the oil on assembly and a couple of them hydrolocked and then worked loose.
As for boost I couldn't get above 12 with a stock pump, but made 18 with a moose pump. Then the compressor wheel on the sidewinder started to peel away so I changed it but I think the imbalance slopped up the bearings and lost 3 lbs. After turning up the moose pump 4 flats I was back to 18. All this at about 650-800 egt. 800 only when I was pulling the TT up a grade.
In hindsight I think the mitsubishi turbo that was used in the sidewinder kit could use new bearings and a better compressor wheel. I think the compressed air pushing against it was damaging the fins on the wheel as the replacement is starting to show some wear in a very short time.
A little tweaking and it would be quite bad *** but I've reached the end of my desire.
As for boost I couldn't get above 12 with a stock pump, but made 18 with a moose pump. Then the compressor wheel on the sidewinder started to peel away so I changed it but I think the imbalance slopped up the bearings and lost 3 lbs. After turning up the moose pump 4 flats I was back to 18. All this at about 650-800 egt. 800 only when I was pulling the TT up a grade.
In hindsight I think the mitsubishi turbo that was used in the sidewinder kit could use new bearings and a better compressor wheel. I think the compressed air pushing against it was damaging the fins on the wheel as the replacement is starting to show some wear in a very short time.
A little tweaking and it would be quite bad *** but I've reached the end of my desire.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I am running an ATS upgrade turbo on mine with a few extra thing like header wrap on al the pipes before the turbo to keep as much heat as possible in my exhaust.
Ram air feeding the turbo through a stock ATS filter housing.
3" downpipe split into dual stacks, no mufflers.
Milled pistons, ARP head studs, DPS Stage 1 injectors and a modified 94 turbo IP pushing lots of fuel.
Boost numbers in the mid 20's when I stand on the fuel out on the highway.
I have toyed with the thought of twins, but never had the time when I have the money.
I bought a reman turbo up grade 7.3 before I built the engie I have now, I can relate to to much oil on the head bolts which will cause bolt torque problems.
When I tore one down, the head bolts were little more than finger tight, but the sleeves dropped and cracked the block was what killed them.
The head gaskets were also contaminated with assembly lube, that was bad and probably why they failed when paired with the loose head bolts.
You were only getting 18 with twins?
Sounds like I would be wasting my time going that route.
Ram air feeding the turbo through a stock ATS filter housing.
3" downpipe split into dual stacks, no mufflers.
Milled pistons, ARP head studs, DPS Stage 1 injectors and a modified 94 turbo IP pushing lots of fuel.
Boost numbers in the mid 20's when I stand on the fuel out on the highway.
I have toyed with the thought of twins, but never had the time when I have the money.
I bought a reman turbo up grade 7.3 before I built the engie I have now, I can relate to to much oil on the head bolts which will cause bolt torque problems.
When I tore one down, the head bolts were little more than finger tight, but the sleeves dropped and cracked the block was what killed them.
The head gaskets were also contaminated with assembly lube, that was bad and probably why they failed when paired with the loose head bolts.
You were only getting 18 with twins?
Sounds like I would be wasting my time going that route.
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From: ft wayne, IN
I don't know if I'd call it a waste of time. With stock compression and Mel's pump, It hit 18 psi. Then I blew the head gaskets. It sat all winter until I could get it torn down and back together. During that time I milled .060 off of my pistons so I was at about 19.5:1. Soon after that the compressor wheel on the mitsubishi turbo took a crap and I lost about 3 psi. I replaced the wheel but the bearings have a little play so I lengthened the wastegate rod to keep boost from that charger down. Then I turned the moose pump up 4 flats and was back to 18 psi. Keep in mind that from a dead stop to 70+ mph my egt's don't go much above 600 deg. I can hit 800 if I'm pulling a grade with the TT.
If I were of the mind to continue I'd send my spare mitsubishi te06h (sidewinder) off to be rebuilt and a better compressor wheel so the tips of the blades would stop shearing off, have Mel build a bigger pump and put in a new set of injectors. I have no doubt that I have a lot of room to make more power since the psd turbo would only make about 14-15 lbs (25lb potential) and the extra 3 were from the banks (purposely turned down).
If I were of the mind to continue I'd send my spare mitsubishi te06h (sidewinder) off to be rebuilt and a better compressor wheel so the tips of the blades would stop shearing off, have Mel build a bigger pump and put in a new set of injectors. I have no doubt that I have a lot of room to make more power since the psd turbo would only make about 14-15 lbs (25lb potential) and the extra 3 were from the banks (purposely turned down).
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I don't know if I'd call it a waste of time. With stock compression and Mel's pump, It hit 18 psi. Then I blew the head gaskets. It sat all winter until I could get it torn down and back together. During that time I milled .060 off of my pistons so I was at about 19.5:1. Soon after that the compressor wheel on the mitsubishi turbo took a crap and I lost about 3 psi. I replaced the wheel but the bearings have a little play so I lengthened the wastegate rod to keep boost from that charger down. Then I turned the moose pump up 4 flats and was back to 18 psi. Keep in mind that from a dead stop to 70+ mph my egt's don't go much above 600 deg. I can hit 800 if I'm pulling a grade with the TT.
If I were of the mind to continue I'd send my spare mitsubishi te06h (sidewinder) off to be rebuilt and a better compressor wheel so the tips of the blades would stop shearing off, have Mel build a bigger pump and put in a new set of injectors. I have no doubt that I have a lot of room to make more power since the psd turbo would only make about 14-15 lbs (25lb potential) and the extra 3 were from the banks (purposely turned down).
If I were of the mind to continue I'd send my spare mitsubishi te06h (sidewinder) off to be rebuilt and a better compressor wheel so the tips of the blades would stop shearing off, have Mel build a bigger pump and put in a new set of injectors. I have no doubt that I have a lot of room to make more power since the psd turbo would only make about 14-15 lbs (25lb potential) and the extra 3 were from the banks (purposely turned down).
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
Flatlander, I've always thought about the low EGT numbers you talk about. I wonder if all the external plumbing has an intercooling effect or if it was simply a case of surplus air. But I also wonder if there is some form of untapped potential above 15 PSI of boost in the IDIs. Most turbo kits for these engines are optimal at 7-10 PSI and just don't work well above that unless they are modded and EGTs are usually a problem.
Sorry to hear about "that damn truck". You and Dave are the only ones I know of that consistently ran above the mid teens in boost pressure. I'm only getting 10-12 PSI, but my pump is on borrowed time.
-canadian dollar at $0.88/US today. Moose pump just got a little cheaper.
Sorry to hear about "that damn truck". You and Dave are the only ones I know of that consistently ran above the mid teens in boost pressure. I'm only getting 10-12 PSI, but my pump is on borrowed time.
-canadian dollar at $0.88/US today. Moose pump just got a little cheaper.
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Flatlander, I've always thought about the low EGT numbers you talk about. I wonder if all the external plumbing has an intercooling effect or if it was simply a case of surplus air. But I also wonder if there is some form of untapped potential above 15 PSI of boost in the IDIs. Most turbo kits for these engines are optimal at 7-10 PSI and just don't work well above that unless they are modded and EGTs are usually a problem.
Sorry to hear about "that damn truck". You and Dave are the only ones I know of that consistently ran above the mid teens in boost pressure. I'm only getting 10-12 PSI, but my pump is on borrowed time.
-canadian dollar at $0.88/US today. Moose pump just got a little cheaper.
Sorry to hear about "that damn truck". You and Dave are the only ones I know of that consistently ran above the mid teens in boost pressure. I'm only getting 10-12 PSI, but my pump is on borrowed time.
-canadian dollar at $0.88/US today. Moose pump just got a little cheaper.
david85 i belive with that moosepump and an intercooler and you will hit you 20psi goal
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Just running more air through the engine lowers EGT's, I have noticed the same on mine.
However, the extra heat in the higher pressure air does hurt me in the summer time.
As far as how my engine runs, I wish I could drive in -10 F temps all year long.
An intercooler is in my future.
However, the extra heat in the higher pressure air does hurt me in the summer time.
As far as how my engine runs, I wish I could drive in -10 F temps all year long.
An intercooler is in my future.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
I seem to remember hearing that its really hard to install an intercooler in my generation of truck and still keep the AC.
I'm still thinking water injection might be a better way to go, but it doesn't have a very high priority. As long as my truck is reliable I am happy, but since the moose pumps are supposed to be reconditioned to much closer tolerances, I might end up paying a bit more for one. I'm more interested in the tight build quality than the larger fuel flow. I can't remember how many stories I heard of 6.9s that got mid 20s for MPGs from factory and perminantly lost some of that when the injector pump was replaced with a reman.
I'd love to keep building my truck up intercooler or water injection and multiport injectors, but between my electric car, work and the potential for some scary big contracts later this year, I better not bite off more than I can chew. We're getting some CNC equipment later this summer and the next major truck project will probably be making composite panels for my truck.
Maybe Dad and I already bit off too much LOL.
I'm still thinking water injection might be a better way to go, but it doesn't have a very high priority. As long as my truck is reliable I am happy, but since the moose pumps are supposed to be reconditioned to much closer tolerances, I might end up paying a bit more for one. I'm more interested in the tight build quality than the larger fuel flow. I can't remember how many stories I heard of 6.9s that got mid 20s for MPGs from factory and perminantly lost some of that when the injector pump was replaced with a reman.
I'd love to keep building my truck up intercooler or water injection and multiport injectors, but between my electric car, work and the potential for some scary big contracts later this year, I better not bite off more than I can chew. We're getting some CNC equipment later this summer and the next major truck project will probably be making composite panels for my truck.
Maybe Dad and I already bit off too much LOL.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Where you start running into problems is stacking all of the cores on top of each other.
Heat from the front one is passed onto the second and third one, plus the third one also gets the heat from the second one.
That and the air flow restriction makes them even less effecient.
Right now my main problem, there is enough room for most of the intercooler to be below the AC condensor, but my snow plow bracket blocks all airflow in that area.
The bumper can be modified with holes to get air flow through it like they used on the 93 or 94 turbo models, but that don't help with the plow bracket.
A solid piece of steel plate covers everything from the frame horn to frame horn and extends about 8" below the bumper as wide as the frame.
Heat from the front one is passed onto the second and third one, plus the third one also gets the heat from the second one.
That and the air flow restriction makes them even less effecient.
Right now my main problem, there is enough room for most of the intercooler to be below the AC condensor, but my snow plow bracket blocks all airflow in that area.
The bumper can be modified with holes to get air flow through it like they used on the 93 or 94 turbo models, but that don't help with the plow bracket.
A solid piece of steel plate covers everything from the frame horn to frame horn and extends about 8" below the bumper as wide as the frame.
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From: ft wayne, IN
There is always the possibility of experimenting with electric fans. That would clear up the space that the factory fan takes up now. I don't know of anyone who has done it that seriously works their truck, but there's always a first.