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Leveling kit question ??!?!

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Old May 15, 2009 | 07:15 PM
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war thunder's Avatar
war thunder
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Leveling kit question ??!?!

Hello I have a 05 4x4 F250 i put a 2.5 inch leveling kit on it . I noticed that the front end sits a little higher,not sure how much. I was thinking about maybe adding "f350 blocks" or spacers? Like for it to be level or a little higher in the back. Also I was reading with you put in bigger blocks do you have to shim the drive shaft?? thank for any info or help with my problem.
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 07:50 PM
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I believe you can put the 350 blocks on no prob... But if you say you read somewhere that something needs to be done to the driveshaft, then I am not sure on that. Mayb some more experienced guys will chime in soon
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 09:56 PM
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From: Jackson
I heard F350 blocks were about 1/2-1 inch bigger than F250 blocks, I think you would be safe with those, if you were doing radical lift like 6 inches, that's when you have to worry.
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 10:34 PM
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thanks for the reply's. I just have to find some. I was looking a 4w parts and they have rear blocks in different sizes. I need to get ones that have the bump stop in it.
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 10:37 PM
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From: Jackson
You probably need 3 in. blocks
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 10:47 PM
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I did the same thing. I installed a levelling kit on my 04 and I thought the back end was low. I decided against the 350 block and went for an add-a-leaf kit instead. It didn't make the ride any harsher and it gives me better load handling.

Just my opinion. A lot of guys go with the blocks and are happy. I would suggest hitting a wrecking yard to get them. That way you could retain the factory bump stops. A lot of the aftermarket blocks don't have them.
 
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Old May 16, 2009 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by conger
I did the same thing. I installed a levelling kit on my 04 and I thought the back end was low. I decided against the 350 block and went for an add-a-leaf kit instead. It didn't make the ride any harsher and it gives me better load handling.

Just my opinion. A lot of guys go with the blocks and are happy. I would suggest hitting a wrecking yard to get them. That way you could retain the factory bump stops. A lot of the aftermarket blocks don't have them.
definitely a good idea.....
 
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Old May 16, 2009 | 01:08 AM
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Thanks ,I like the idea of a add a leaf never thought of that .... I did not like the blocks I had with my lift cause it looked like it put a lot of pressure on the leaf springs when I pulled my RV. Ok, next question what kind of leafs? like a new spring pack or one of those helper springs Or can can I had springs to the spring pack ? this is new to me ..thanks again
 
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Old May 16, 2009 | 04:00 AM
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Several high quality lift kits are coming with an add a leaf AND a block for the rear end. Either or both will work just fine, using only blocks will put the same pressure on your springs as the stock set up, since the mating surface is the same size with or without blocks. The issue with the blocks could be the elevated axle wrap.

You are shimming the driveshaft if you have a 2 piece shaft, and after installing the lift you feel the vibration, "hopping" on the rear end, usually at 35-40 mph.
 
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Old May 16, 2009 | 09:29 AM
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Hopping Rear End with Lift

My truck has a 6" lift that was on it when I bought it. I have the hopping at 35-40 from the rear. I have never had a 2 piece driveshaft before, so not sure how the angles are supposed to work.

How is this fixed? I could shim the pinion with an angled block or space the the center carrier bearing down to make the angle better on the shaft. Which or both are needed.
 
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Old May 16, 2009 | 11:41 AM
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I just did the same thing with the F350 blocks. As someone said, the 250 blocks are 2 inches and the 350 blocks are 3 3/4 inches. With the 2 1/4 inch front lift, the truck is sitting pretty--and level. if you want to get the Ford part, I would suggest FTE Partsguy--you need u bolts and nuts, too. Edit--no shims were needed; I have a lon bed crew cab.
 
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Old May 16, 2009 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by war thunder
Thanks ,I like the idea of a add a leaf never thought of that .... I did not like the blocks I had with my lift cause it looked like it put a lot of pressure on the leaf springs when I pulled my RV. Ok, next question what kind of leafs? like a new spring pack or one of those helper springs Or can can I had springs to the spring pack ? this is new to me ..thanks again
I'm very happy with the kit I got from Procomp. The kit has new spring clamps and is the 3rd longest spring in the rear leafs. It basically recurves the whole pack. I installed them without removing the springs from the truck. You get the back end up plenty high and let the axle hang. Then do one side at a time supporting the axle with a jack. You also need about 6 big C-clamps to re-assemble the springs after taking each apart. I found that the new spring added gave the truck a more stable stance while pulling my TT. One of the guys down at an off road shop I buy stuff at suggested it. He had the 350 blocks in his 250 and said he thought it made the back end feel mushy. The cost difference was about 50 bucks for the blocks vs 180 for the springs.
 
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Old May 16, 2009 | 05:09 PM
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From: Sarasota, fl
Originally Posted by kwissman
My truck has a 6" lift that was on it when I bought it. I have the hopping at 35-40 from the rear. I have never had a 2 piece driveshaft before, so not sure how the angles are supposed to work.

How is this fixed? I could shim the pinion with an angled block or space the the center carrier bearing down to make the angle better on the shaft. Which or both are needed.
YOU DO NOT SHIM THE AXLE TO CHANGE THE PINION ANGLE!!!
I wrote it capital, because it's a big NO-NO! These trucks are not little Jeeps, or S10 trucks, these are close to 8000lb power-plants, and you could end up in big trouble, when the torque decides to get rid of the homemade shims at the axle.
You do shim the carrier bearing, I ended up lowering mine with an 1 1/2 inch. I have a 4" lift.
 
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